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Drill Press Planer

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Review by dmann posted 08-09-2008 04:08 PM 22076 views 4 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Drill Press Planer Drill Press Planer No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

As much as I’de love an excuse to get another piece of equipment for the shop I don’t use a planer enough to justify the expense or space.

I saw this Drill Press Planer at the Woodworker’s Supply and figured for the price I would give it a shot. I was able to plane my first pieces of wood this week. I was preparing a section of a 3×3x9 block of maple to create a laminated bowl blank.

The Planer worked well for my purposes. I secured the planer in the chuck and adjusted the table to take 1/16” to 1/8” off. Took a little while to get the hang of the cutting action but in no time I was making a huge mess in the shop. I was cutting endgrain so a little sanding to remove the raised grain and I was able to have a surface suitable for the lamination.

I’m giving this a 3. Not because of the quality or instructions, it definitely works as advertised, but I would only suggest this if you only need a planer a couple of times a year. To plane the edge of a board (very easy on a dedicated planer) you would have to do a lot of messing with your drill press table and fence to get a good edge.

Sells for around $30 at Woodworker.com. Grizzly and Woodcraft have similar items on their sites for $50.

Pros:
Cheap
Quick cutting action – cutters are pretty substantial
Comes with sharpening supplies

Cons:
Must be careful around the spinning cutter head
Messy, wood chips go everywhere
Quality of cut depends a lot on the drill press table and fence setup

-- David / Durham, NC




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dmann

81 posts in 3316 days



12 comments so far

View woodworm's profile

woodworm

14168 posts in 3100 days


#1 posted 08-09-2008 05:24 PM

MHO is this drill press planer is for light duty. I am talking about the “drill press” not the planer, in this contex.
The drill press’s bearings are designed for axial force (load). Putting extra “side force” (load) ie when we push the work-piece to feed (wether using DP drum/spindle sanding or DP planer) may cause quill wear out.

I think if we maintain slow and light force feeding, the possible quill damage is minimal.

What others think?

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View Dominic Vanacora's profile

Dominic Vanacora

508 posts in 3379 days


#2 posted 08-09-2008 09:15 PM

This seems like a tool that would be a bit dangerious. I can see me feeding the material too fast and a lot of kick pack. And I can’t see it giving you a good finish. But $600.00 verse $30.00 It may be worth a try.
Thanks for the review.

-- Dominic, Trinity, Florida...Lets be safe out there.

View Don Niermann  's profile

Don Niermann

215 posts in 3482 days


#3 posted 08-10-2008 03:11 AM

I hace had one for 15 years. Works good for it was planned for. Not A PLANNER BUT FOR SMALL jobs.

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

View brianinpa's profile

brianinpa

1812 posts in 3232 days


#4 posted 08-10-2008 03:30 AM

Very good review. I have been looking at planners for a while now and still don’t want to spend the money for one. I recent bought a 4” joiner at an auction for $10.00. It works for surfacing small projects, but I can see where this drillpress planner could be useful.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

View FJPetruso's profile

FJPetruso

322 posts in 3219 days


#5 posted 08-10-2008 07:42 PM

I’m glad that you bought the good rotary surface planer! Yours is designed much better with cutters that have a totally different design. Years ago I bought the rotary planer that Sears used to market. The old Craftsman model that I tried on my radial saw is the absolutely most dangerous tool that I ever used! Your new planer has a step/ridge around the edge that prevents the cutting edges of the cutters from projecting to far & only allows the cutters to take out a small amount. The old Craftsman model doesn’t have this step & the cutters can take a HUGE BITE that causes a severe kick-back problem. I have a scar on the heel of my hand as proof. Never buy an old Sears Craftsman model. I actually deliberately ruined mine with a hammer so it couldn’t be used again.

-- Frank, Florissant, Missouri "The New Show-Me Woodshop"

View marcb's profile

marcb

768 posts in 3183 days


#6 posted 08-10-2008 09:59 PM

The bearing issue mainly depends on the Drill Press you’re using. My drill press talks about using it for routing in the manual. Uses a Deep Groove Bearing which takes axial forces in stride.

View scottb's profile

scottb

3648 posts in 3836 days


#7 posted 08-10-2008 10:16 PM

my (wicked cheap) drill press probably couldn’t handle this, but I bet it would work pretty well on the shopsmith – certainly cheaper, easier and/or faster than (finally breaking down and building) a router sled.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Van Gogh -- http://blanchardcreative.etsy.com -- http://snbcreative.wordpress.com/

View Don Niermann  's profile

Don Niermann

215 posts in 3482 days


#8 posted 08-11-2008 03:15 AM

I also only use mine only in my shopsmioth

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

View Doug S.'s profile

Doug S.

295 posts in 3217 days


#9 posted 08-11-2008 02:54 PM

Like others have mentioned, it’s for small stuff only but that’s where it really shines anyway. Stuff that’s just too small tends to get shredded in a standard planer even riding on carriage boards. It CAN kick some if the work is fed from the wrong direction but after you get the feel for it, it’s pretty easy to control. You can find a number of Inet posts from luthiers using it for thicknessing small instrument parts. I’ve used it to thickness 1/16” inlay stock prior to getting a drum sander and it worked well.

-- Use the fence Luke

View KRAIG's profile

KRAIG

10 posts in 3530 days


#10 posted 08-12-2008 05:57 PM

WHEN BUILDING OUR NEW HOUSE. I ONLY HAD THE RADIAL SAW, ROUTER, JIGSAW AND ASSORTED HAND TOOLS. PURCHASED THIS FOR MY RADIAL SAW. STUCK ON A 1/2” CHUCK WITH A SPEED CONTROL. IT WORKED GREAT FOR ME. YOU MUST MAKE A SAFETY COVER OR FENCE. AS I DID. DURING THIS TIME. I MADE NORM’S BLANKET CHEST AND A MATCHING MIRROR.

-- kraig stewart

View dawgwalker's profile

dawgwalker

19 posts in 2420 days


#11 posted 01-12-2012 07:15 AM

I am interested in purchasing one of these if you have one and want to get rid of it please let me know.

Thanks Mike

View jman95's profile

jman95

10 posts in 304 days


#12 posted 01-14-2017 09:20 AM

I own one and love it .I don’t use it every day and that saids if you don’t leave it set up i does take a little time to make sure the table is swept in true. As for saftey as long as you keep fingers back like any other tool its is a pretty safe as well. Mine is a wood tek made in tulsa ok they have been their for ever as my dad bout yes in the 70s and I i last year. I can not speek for oyher brands as I think 2 or 3 people make them. The reason they are called a saftey planer is because the tip of the 3 cutting edges only stick down .005in lower than the bottom of the plate. This makes it hard for it to get in a bind throw the piece out if it has to come off the table. they are made to remove 1/16th at a time as kong as you do that no problem easy to control if not taking full cut jut feed into the cutters not to climb cut. The wood tek comes with the tool a allen an a sharpen wheel for the drill press and ca be spun safely up to 8000rpm I use mine about 7000rpm as it cuts smother than down around 3000rpm. the othe brand I know of is a Stew Mac I never used it can’t vouch for. They work about the same as far can I tell except the stew mac does not come with the grindind wheel and has a top speed of about 3000rpm. As for what drill presses can and can not run them not for shure but with the super sharp knives in theese I can’t imagine it would hurt the bearings cutting wood at 1/16th deep. the only reason it might be a issue is if your chuck is only held on or in by a morris taper as A side pressue could make it loosen fall out. I too have a shop smith it has 4 bearings that run the quill. Two in the quill and two holding the drive shaft for the quill as it was made to be a over and now under table shaper/router designed for side load. Many guitar makers use theese some even over a conventional planer because you can take your stock to almost veneer thickness unlike a conventinal planer. Hope this helps some of you and the price is between $40 and $50.

You fellows keep making saw dust!!

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