LumberJocks

Great, and inexpensive

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Review by Goodsh posted 06-28-2014 06:04 PM 2228 views 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Great, and inexpensive No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Bought this saw for $30 about 6 months ago. It is great. Cuts super fast in all types of wood often without tear out and is very easy to use. I use it for both crosscuts and rip cuts and it produces fine results in both. The blade is solid and tight in the handle. The handle is a little cheap – it’s basically just a dowel but for $30 bucks I wouldn’t expect much more. This saw is great. To be honest I much prefer this over the Veritas rip carcass saw I got for more than double the price. Maybe it’s my technique but the dozuki is so simple and cuts so beautifully I now use it almost exclusively.




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Goodsh

49 posts in 579 days



11 comments so far

View QuangFromCalgary's profile

QuangFromCalgary

25 posts in 1657 days


#1 posted 06-29-2014 01:08 PM

I have the same saw for couple of years. This is the handsaw to grasp when I need, very easy to use and cut well. I also have vertias saw too, but it is not as good as this one. Thanks for the review

View kocgolf's profile

kocgolf

57 posts in 837 days


#2 posted 06-29-2014 03:13 PM

I have two Japanese saws that I use for hand work that I love, but have been thinking I would like something with a little more rigid spine for dovetails. Is that a stock photo you have there or is this your work? Does this work well for dovetails as well as for rip and crosscuts?

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2837 posts in 1902 days


#3 posted 06-29-2014 04:28 PM

I have a double edge Japanese saw sold by Vaughn. It cost only about $12. I now use it instead of dragging out a “Skil” saw for an occasional cut. Western style “push” saws are just collectible items now. I’m sure a few still use them, but a Japanese style saw is so much more efficient in it’s design. I have never been able to follow a straight line with a conventional saw without a lot of effort. The Japanese saw makes it a piece of cake.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5669 posts in 2087 days


#4 posted 06-29-2014 04:31 PM

I like ridged backed pull saws. And, I have no problem whatsoever following a line. It’s the saw that can’t see. It’s cuts are the evidence.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View cdaniels's profile

cdaniels

648 posts in 160 days


#5 posted 06-30-2014 01:32 AM

kocgolf, I am stationed in japan and have been afforded the opportunity to work with some japanese mastercraftsmen. They use only these saws for everything and i’ve been almost completely converted to them. they work great for dovetails and really for any type of cuts. they leave edges so smoothe they require almost no sanding to smoothe for final work. my favorite saw for dovetails is a tenon saw that I got on ebay for $20 made in the 1800’s.

-- Jesus was a carpenter... I'm just saying

View Goodsh's profile

Goodsh

49 posts in 579 days


#6 posted 06-30-2014 02:15 AM

Kocgolf: the pic is from LV’s website. I haven’t done dovetails with it but it does work well for both ripping and crosscuts. Definitely a good general purpose saw. There’s another review on the site with pictures of cuts: http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/2723

I tested the professional dozuki that LV has in the store and didn’t notice a difference between it and this one.

View Lumberpunk's profile

Lumberpunk

196 posts in 995 days


#7 posted 06-30-2014 07:07 AM

Have one… love it

View kocgolf's profile

kocgolf

57 posts in 837 days


#8 posted 07-01-2014 01:54 PM

Well, I ordered it up, can’t wait to get it! Thanks for the info guys, and for the review Goodsh.

View Fettler's profile

Fettler

120 posts in 655 days


#9 posted 07-11-2014 06:27 PM

I have one of these; They’re korean made. For some reason mine veers to the right. Probably just user error.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

View gko's profile

gko

79 posts in 1903 days


#10 posted 07-27-2014 11:04 AM

On Japanese saws you grab it near the end of the handle for the most accurate cuts. The other hand adds a little weight to speed up the cut but does not steer the cut. I’m rght handed so right hand near the end and left near the blade and left foot forward. If you hold it near the blade your cut might vary by an eighth inch. Holding at the end reduces that by half. Also in starting the cut, use just the first third of the blade near the tip. This reduces the error by about 6 times. If the cut is not long I usually use the tip until I’ve cut the whole length then go full strokes. Pull the saw to your belly button and keep you head centered on the blade. Aim vertically as accurately as possible before cutting. Once the cut goes off vertically the kurf is so narrow that the saw will keep heading in that direction. The saw is made to cut relazed with little effort, if you force it the saw will not work that well. Learned these from a master in Japan. Cuts became extremely accurate.

-- Wood Menehune, Honolulu

View fissionchips's profile

fissionchips

95 posts in 1117 days


#11 posted 08-01-2014 08:04 PM

I use this saw for small joinery tasks, but most of time I turn to a ryoba for joinery. It gets the job done faster and is easier to correct the cut back to the line in mid-cut because of the flexibility. The sawn surface is a little rougher given the lower TPI, but most joints see clean up with a chisel or plane after sawing.

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