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Marc was right...

Review by Texasgaloot posted 167 days ago 738 views 1 time favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites
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Texasgaloot

425 posts in 240 days


Marc was right... No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I’m really sort of an old tools kind of guy, and therefore I’m never very enthusiastic when the time comes to use a poly finish. As a matter of fact, I lurk on another list where we refer to this stuff polyurinate. I’ll use shellac or French Polish in a heartbeat. Now, I’ve used the Minwax poly by the gallon for past projects, and I first picked up a quart of the Minwax water based poly from the big blue bigbox store in order to finish out a client’s library table. And this is the case: the client has a library table that is a family heirloom. The top is maple with breadboard ends, the legs, drawer, etc. is all maple, but the top has a boockmatched walnut veneer on it. All obviously done by an amateur, but that is neither here nor there. The client wanted the piece refinished to present to a family member, and this included repairing some water damage from an air conditioner that couldn’t hold it’s water. It also included making sure the piece isn’t as vulnerable to water in the future. I’ve therefore elected to poly only the top, leaving the rest of the piece it’s original shellac.

Have at it! Removed old finish, obviously shellac (best part of the piece!) Repaired veneer chips. Added coat of boiled linseed oil, and a coat of orange shellac just to make the grain dance. Added a coat of Minwax poly. No bueno. Sanded and tried again, with equally dismal results. Back down to raw veneer. And then I remembered how much Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) liked General Finishes wiping poly. So I picked up a quart of that.

Marc was right.

This poly wipes on – I’m using discarded a T-shirt. It applies evenly, doesn’t leave streaks, runs, or dry spots, and really seems to enhance the grain (rather than disguise it.) It is really leaving a clear, as opposed to slightly cloudy, finish. I’m trying the gloss right now (with the idea that if I don’t like it that glossy, one coat of semi-gloss will do it for me.) It is more expensive than the other stuff, but the $5.00 is more than offset by the saved frustration. Hopefully the client will agree.

-- There's no tool like an old tool...


13 comments so far

View John Gray's profile

John Gray

886 posts in 425 days


posted 167 days ago

Thanks for the review!

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

View teenagewoodworker's profile

teenagewoodworker

2143 posts in 308 days


posted 167 days ago

thanks for the review. I use almost all general finished products and they have all equally impressed me. i still have the half used can of Minwax that i bought about 6 months ago from before i tried Arm-R-Seal. you should try the seal-a-cell too. thats a great product. they have a really nice Natural Danish Oil (I love it) their stains are top quality, and their dyes are hard to beat. thanks for the review!

View Scott Bryan's profile (online now)

Scott Bryan

9950 posts in 362 days


posted 167 days ago

Thanks for the review. I am a fan of wipe on finishes. I will have to try this one.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View Bob N's profile

Bob N

41 posts in 467 days


posted 167 days ago

I have been using GF products for the last 2 years and have been extremely satisfied with the results. I am only a hobbiest WW, but I like quality results and GF has yet to let me down.

View Joey's profile

Joey

229 posts in 355 days


posted 167 days ago

I’ve used it before. It compares to a custom tung oil blend with how it makes the grain stand out. My only problem I had with it is that it would start to polermerize(harden) not long after opening the can. this was 3 years ago and I haven’t used it since. I tried contacting GF but they never got back with me.
The wipe on aspect of it is great, but since then I got my hands on some pure tung oil grown right here in Ms right before Katrina took them out.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

View Mathew Nedeljko's profile

Mathew Nedeljko

36 posts in 370 days


posted 167 days ago

I have been using this product for the past 4 years for a number of different cabinetry/furniture projects and I have been very satisfied with it. I apply it with a foam brush to large surfaces,as I find that a t shirt tends to take too much off.

I am currently building a large entertainment center in my newly finished basement, and today I bought a gallon of the Satin finish!

-- When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt! Henry J. Kaiser

View Lee A. Jesberger's profile

Lee A. Jesberger

2898 posts in 519 days


posted 167 days ago

Sounds like a finish I’ll have to keep in mind.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

View DAN's profile

DAN

3505 posts in 523 days


posted 166 days ago

Arm-r-seal is what I used on my coffee table about a dozen years ago. Stands up like iron.

-- ..... art for lifes sake ... danwalters@lumberjocks.com

View matt garcia's profile

matt garcia

229 posts in 212 days


posted 166 days ago

I had the same experience with Poly’s. I don’t like them much. I use Armor Seal almost exclusively, unless I am using tung oil. I wish I knew how to mix, and apply shellac. I really want to try it one day.

-- Matt, Houston Texas

View Texasgaloot's profile

Texasgaloot

425 posts in 240 days


posted 166 days ago

Matt: the shellac us much easier than you might think. I use the flake form. I stick some flakes in the bottom of a glass jar, just cover them with denatured alcohol, put the lid on the jar, and go to bed. The next morning, I start swirling the jar every time I walk by it, and keep doing that until the flakes are melted. That’s good for a very rough “one pound cut.” I usually begin to add more alcohol, until I get Mack’s three pound-ish cut. There are better ways to do this, but this works great for me. Apply with a foam brush, or French polish. Buff with 4-0 steel wool between coats. Piece of cake!

-- There's no tool like an old tool...

View USCJeff's profile

USCJeff

815 posts in 608 days


posted 165 days ago

Agreed. I’ll add that the gel variant is used a lot in my shop. There are trade-offs though. The gel isn’t quite as clear and obscures the look slightly. I only notice when holding the gel and thinned versions side by side though. Given that, I use gel when blotching is an issue and thinned stuff when not. Maple, Cherry, and pine see the gel a lot.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

View thewoodwhisperer's profile

thewoodwhisperer

182 posts in 724 days


posted 164 days ago

Glad it worked out for you man! If you can believe it, when applied very carefully (and lightly, I might add), the finish actually resembles lacquer. I just finished a small entertainment center and once I brought it into the house, I started to see that the finish looked very similar to many of my lacquered pieces in everyday lighting. That’s a great thing coming from a poly-based product. Thanks for the review and good luck!

marc

-- For free video tutorials and other cool woodworking stuff, check out http://www.TheWoodWhisperer.com

View Woodhacker's profile

Woodhacker

702 posts in 263 days


posted 164 days ago

I started using GF Arm-R-Seal a few years ago at the suggestion of the manager at the KC Woodcraft store. I really like using it…almost exclusively now at this point, except when I’m trying to preserve the color of a wood like purpleheart, then I use GF’s waterbased UV protection wipe-on. It’s great too and dries even quicker.

I buy the poly-blend by the gallon, but since I mostly create small projects, I’ll immediately go to the local hardware store and buy 4 new empty quart-size paint cans and transfer it to these cans so I can keep most of it sealed until I use it. I’ll take a Sharpie and mark each can with the content and date purchased.

-- Martin, Kansas

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