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JET JCS-10

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Review by JHIM posted 226 days ago 2258 views 0 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Average rating: 4.0
1 review total
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JET JCS-10 No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

All together a press solid table saw. I have been looking for a while and come across this one. He added a 30” fence rail ,had it dialed in extremely tight. feather boards galore ,push sticks, home aid router attachment ,and Two cross cut sleds..i still have my eye open for another one just because the 2HP is lacking power..or maybe I just need to break down and but a high dollar blade? Any thoughts or recommendations?

All together I give it s B+

(image off google)

-- "the hard jobs will take a while..the impossible will take a bit longer"




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JHIM

103 posts in 369 days



12 comments so far

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

1016 posts in 392 days


#1 posted 226 days ago

I’d buy a good blade before buying a new table saw. I know that thin kerf blades are recommended for 1.5 hp saws—would be worth trying here. I’m very happy with thin kerf Freud rip blade adn a thin kerf DeWalt all purpose blade.

Especially worth it if the blade is used. Could be dull.

View BigAl98's profile

BigAl98

90 posts in 1634 days


#2 posted 226 days ago

I’ve found most of the saw is in the motor…..ie you’ll spend a pretty penny for a 3 hp or larger motor.

-- Al,New Jersey -To thine own self be true

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gfadvm

10524 posts in 1285 days


#3 posted 226 days ago

Try the Freud Diablo blades (I use a 40 and a 24 tooth in my 2HP saw and have no complaints). They are inexpensive but I have mine resharpened and they cut better than new.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3772 posts in 975 days


#4 posted 226 days ago

Probably just need a sharp blade, high dollar or not.

You should use a picture of your saw rather than a picture of someone else’s.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View jeff's profile

jeff

634 posts in 2060 days


#5 posted 226 days ago

I think a new thin kerf blade would be in order,for any saw really…It helped my Rigid 4512…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View NormG's profile

NormG

3977 posts in 1599 days


#6 posted 225 days ago

Go for the sharp and/or new blade first. If the saw itself is not letting you perform tasks you need, then replace the saw. However, you will still need a new blade

-- Norman

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3254 posts in 1408 days


#7 posted 224 days ago

Try a thin kerf blade, for example a Diablo 1024 ripping blade. It will zip through 8/4 oak like you wouldn’t believe. I started with a 50 tooth full kerf industrial Freud blade, and noticed slow feed rates and too much resistance to feeding thick lumber. Thin kerf makes all the difference for these mid-size saws. Plus the Diablo blades are inexpensive, and widely available at Home Depot, etc.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View JHIM's profile

JHIM

103 posts in 369 days


#8 posted 224 days ago

looks like i will be trying a different blade! thanks everyone

-- "the hard jobs will take a while..the impossible will take a bit longer"

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3829 posts in 923 days


#9 posted 224 days ago

I have an older Jet CTAS model and agree that they are well built saws. Basically, one of the earliest Tawainese clones of the venerable Delta Unisaw.

Are you basing your assessment that 2 HP isn’t enough umph based on any particular problem you’ve experienced with the saw, or is it more based on saw vs. saw spec. comparisons.

If you’ve observed a problem that you think points to lack of HP, you’ll need to detail it in order to get meaninful feed back. You’ve received some good ideas for blades…. Thin kerf is probably appropriate for a 2 HP saw… and dedicated rip and cross cut blades will give both good cut quality and efficient use of available power.

If your concerns are driven by spec comparisons, I suggest you put some miles on the saw… it may serve you very well as is.

As far as combo blades go, I have the Fusion blade that Andy mentioned above and like it quite a bit, but it takes more effort and power to rip with it than it would a dedicated rip blade.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3772 posts in 975 days


#10 posted 224 days ago

Also, is may sound obvious but rip blades require much less power than using a combo blade to rip. My full kerf rip blade will zip through wood that bogs down a thin kerf combo.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View mbs's profile

mbs

1418 posts in 1535 days


#11 posted 222 days ago

Some blades are made for very specific uses. For example, I have a rip blade that is made for 1”-2” thick wood. It is not intended to work well or thin wood.

I generally prefer buying an industrial grade blade that has plenty of sharpening capacity rather than purchasing a less expensive disposable blade. The last Freud GLR (Glue Line Rip) blade i purchased didn’t last long at all.

A member of the LJ, Knottscott, has done plenty of testing and documenting of blades. I’ve been happy with his recommendations.

For general purpose blades I can recommend the Tenyru Gold series thin kerf blade. Cuts like butter. I made many 2” wide, 0.090” thick walnut laminate strips and glued them together without any planing/sanding and had no gaps. I can also recommend the Forest woodworker II. both of these blades are pricey. Scott may know of some great deals since he stays abreast of the blade market.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View rustynails's profile

rustynails

444 posts in 1124 days


#12 posted 222 days ago

I used to have a 1.5 hp jet contractor saw and it cut everything I sent at it so I am guessing it’s your blade. I also used to have a blue Jet cabinet saw and it looked just like yours. If you are interested I have a brand new throat plate that takes inserts for zero clearance and dato blades that I would be willing to sell if you are interested.

12 unused inserts and one unused master plate. New it ran closes to $175.00. I would let it go for $50.00.

Good luck with the cutting.

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