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Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip blade (10")

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Review by Purrmaster posted 296 days ago 3089 views 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip blade (10") No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I’ve been using this blade since last December. Please note: It’s badly in need of sharpening now but my review will reflect the blade as it was when new, since that seems only fair).

This blade does indeed perform as advertised. I put it on a 1 3/4 HP table saw. It’s worked very well. It does leave a pretty much flawless finish on the ripped wood.

It’s cutting performance is excellent, but it does bog down on some harder woods like oak and hard maple. On a couple of occasions it burned the wood if I tried to cut too fast. This is to be expected on a saw with only 1.75 HP. It’s speed of cutting and the finish it leaves is much, much better than any of the full kerf blades I’ve put in the saw.

Someone wisely suggested getting a 24 tooth (thin kerf) rip blade for times when more heavy duty ripping is needed. I have had to change to that blade on a few occasions. But for the most part this blade is my preferred blade. It also crosscuts decently, much better than I would have anticipated for a 30 tooth blade.

I’m going to try and get this blade sharpened to bring back the performance. Even if I can’t I’m definitely going to buy another one of these blades. It was about $60 at Woodcrafters in Portland. Considering it’s performance and longevity I consider this quite a fair price.

I’ll throw out a review for the 24 tooth rip blade shortly. The pair go together nicely.




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Purrmaster

774 posts in 694 days



13 comments so far

View lumbermeister's profile

lumbermeister

95 posts in 580 days


#1 posted 296 days ago

Thanks for the review. I use the Freud thin kerf rip 24 tooth exclusively, and have gone direct to glue-up for projects like cutting boards after having cut through 8/4 hard maple and purpleheart. I also use it for cross-cuts.

Do you see much of a difference in the surface between the 24T and the glue-line rip?

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2829 posts in 849 days


#2 posted 296 days ago

I would hardly call burns and bogging down on hardwoods a 5 star review for a 30 tooth blade. A low tooth count blade should slice through oak and maple (which are hardwoods, but not exceptionally hard) like it was cardboard.

I use the Irwin Marples 24 tooth TK rip blade on my 1.75 hp saw and I don’t get any burning or bogging down, and the cuts are glue line ready. I love that blade.

Of note, this Freud blade is only recommended for up to 4/4 dimensions.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 694 days


#3 posted 296 days ago

I do see a difference between the 24 tooth and the 30 tooth. The 30 tooth blade leaves an edge that looks like it’s just been handplaned. The 24 tooth blade leaves some teeth marks. The teeth marks aren’t hardcore and can be sanded or planed out pretty easily. The 30 tooth blade simply alleviates the need to do this. If you have the 24 tooth blade it’s probably not worth it to pick up the 30 tooth in addition.

I should have clarified: The bogging and burning occurred when cutting thicker stuff like 2 inch thick harder woods. And typically only if I pushed it too quickly.

I’ll look into that Irwin blade since I may have to replace my Freud blades.

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2262 posts in 1484 days


#4 posted 295 days ago

I have this blade and interestingly it is just over 1/8” smaller in diameter than my other Freud blades. I noticed it because my TS is a Sawstop where the brake cartridge normally lines up a specific distance from the blade; with this blade I noticed it was further from the cartridge and so I measured it….then called Freud who said that that despite it being smaller in diameter it was “within manufacturing tolerances”. Therefore it doesn’t get a whole lot of use…

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 694 days


#5 posted 295 days ago

I noticed the exact same thing. But the same diameter applies to the 24 tooth thin kerf rip blade. Whenever I put one of these blades in I have to adjust the brake cartridge. Odd, I agree. Since you and I both ran into this I assume it’s in the design purposefully. It hasn’t screwed up performance so I haven’t worried about it. Perhaps it’s a balance thing.

View Rick M.'s profile

Rick M.

3785 posts in 981 days


#6 posted 295 days ago

Before sharpening, try cleaning the blade well if you haven’t already. It can make a big improvement.

-- |Statistics show that 100% of people bitten by a snake were close to it.|

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3271 posts in 1414 days


#7 posted 295 days ago

Thanks for the review. I have switched from a 50 tooth full kerf industrial blade, to a 1024 diablo TK and I really like the way it cuts. The blade costs less than a resharpening fee, and seems to stay sharp forever.
It doesn’t crosscut well however, so the 30 tooth is tempting.

Nice review.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 694 days


#8 posted 295 days ago

I’ve scrubbed the blade and teeth at least 5 times. It did help quite a bit at first but now it just needs to be resharpened. Which is to be expected.

Right now I’m using the Diablo 40 tooth blade and it’s impressive. I’m thinking of picking up the 24 tooth but I want to see about sharpening the existing blades first.

View Ottacat's profile

Ottacat

316 posts in 452 days


#9 posted 294 days ago

Ripping almost any 8/4 hardwood such as maple may cause burning because of internal stresses in the wood pushing it sideways into the blade. This will happen no matter what blade you use. When ripping 8/4 wood I try and do a rough cut on the bandsaw and then use the rip blade to rip to exact width.

View mnguy's profile

mnguy

159 posts in 1999 days


#10 posted 293 days ago

I have the full kerf version of this blade and have been very impressed with it on my 1.5 hp Jet contractor saw. On 4/4 stock of any species, I get clean cuts with very little to zero bogging down. On some recent 8/4 white oak, the blade and saw were challenged, even starting with a fresh cleaning. I feel like there are better options out there, but overall I am happy with the blade. A TK version would be an improvement for my saw.

View agallant's profile

agallant

427 posts in 1487 days


#11 posted 293 days ago

I always thought these were some of the best blades for the money. I think I just paid extra for me WWII because it lasts longer probably because I get lazy and leave my Freud on the saw…

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

1074 posts in 398 days


#12 posted 293 days ago

It’s funny, I do ripping with my usual blade if I’m in a hurry, but I’ve never crosscut with my Freud rip blade. I want it to cut perfectly smooth rips when I use it.

View Woodbum's profile

Woodbum

409 posts in 1666 days


#13 posted 277 days ago

I use this blade too, but in a 3 hp Griz cabinet saw. It too rips pretty much anything with very good results. I don’t think your blade bogs down, but rather it is your saw that does. The blade can handle the thick, hard wood; but maybe your saw is a tad underpowered. I normally use a WWII blade and it does a great job ripping for a combo blade. When I have a lot of ripping, then I get un-lazy and put in the Freud. When this blade is past it’s useful life, I am going to try a Forrest low tooth count rip blade. If it lasts between sharpening the way my WWII blades do, I probably will rarely if ever have to send it to Forrest for sharpening.

-- Improvidus, Apto quod Victum-- Improvise, Adapt, Overcome

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