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Barely cuts 3/4 inch oak ISSUE RESOLVED!!

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Review by Mongolas posted 09-16-2013 06:49 AM 10144 views 2 times favorited 63 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Barely cuts 3/4 inch oak ISSUE RESOLVED!! No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Okay, so after not having a table saw for about 4 months since we moved and had to leave my brother’s 89 dollar pro-tech saw behind, my wife finally decided to get me the Grizzly G0715P. All in all, I would rate the actual saw a 4 out of 5. I gave it 3 stars because of the lack of power. I found an extention cord, cut to a shorter length, to act as my wire for my 110v re-wire, since the apartment I’m in said I can’t install a 220v outlet for it. so I got the 6 dollar circuit breaker, got that installed, wired, ect. Turn it on, and sounds great, I love the hum. But, when cutting 3/4 inch oak and cherry, it just doesn’t have power. I have to feed the wood into the blade about 2-3 inches per second, which might sound fast, but it’s actually not! At least, not when I compare the power to my brother’s super cheap, 7 year old table saw.

NOTE: In the picture, you can see I haven’t rewired it to 110 volt yet.

I was really hoping the 110v was not letting the motor work at full potential, but I’ve been reading on forums regarding the difference between 110v and 220v, and they say it’s pretty much the same. Since 110v at 20 amps gives the same power output as 220v at 10 amps, there’s no difference. The blade does take a few seconds to start up, but I”m fine with that, I’m also fine regarding the power it has to draw. I just want this thing to work out, I’d HATE to send it back, and hear that nothing is wrong with it, and have to pay the 100 bucks for return shipping.

The fence is nice, blade seems really square to the miter track. I actually got the blade so accurately aligned with the fence at point point, It was shocking. I was first concerned about the issues with the blade getting out of alignment when it’s raised and lowered. So, I did a test. Set the blade at 1 inch, according to the scale on the table saw. First cut with the blade about 1 inch high, I got a reading with my digital caliper at 127/128th of an inch. Second test with the blade at about 2 to 2 and quarter, I go the exact same reading, 127/128th of an inch. The third test was with the blade as high as it can go, and same exact reading. So, I ruled that out. I got my fence realigned pretty nicely, but when I lock it down, it moves a bit, but that’s something I can adjust myself, it’s just time consuming and tedious.

My big issue is, when I cut half inch, or even 3/4 inch birch plywood, it cuts it as smooth as butter, and doesn’t bog down. If I were to cut the 3/4 inch oak or cherry, I can push it to the point where the motor just stops. I called customer service, they told me my belt was too loose, and the guy said this, and I quote “the belt needs to be about as tight as a guitar string”. So, thinking he’s crazy, but trying it anyways, I tightened it very tight, it had very little give when I pushed on the middle of it. Started up fine, ran fine, but I had to cut slowly.

Sure, I suppose I can live with this, but, remember reviews about this saw that I’ve read, people having plenty of power using the saw to resaw thick lumber. It took me about 4-5 minutes to cut a 4 inch wide piece off of a 18-20 inch cherry slab. Not even cutting it at full height. First cut was probably at about 2 and a half, to 2 and 3/4 inches. Then the second cut finished it off. I don’t know what I”m doing wrong.

I do have a theory, that maybe the gauge wire I used was too thick, and I’m losing power over the length of the cord. But, I can’t imagine it making THAT much of a difference, right?

Anyways. Cast iron table top is very nice. Fence is decent, with a little more fine tuning. Miter gauge is absolute garbage, and will be looking into something from Incra later this year. Blade it came with is average, and probably plays a very small part of the problem regarding power. A higher quality, sharper blade would probably cut better, giving the illusion that the saw has more power.

Regardless, I tried two blades, my Diablo 80 tooth laminate blade to cut my half inch and 3/4 inch birch plywood, and the blade the saw came with to cut everything else. Still had issues with both.

I’m worried I’m going to look stupid when someone suggests to do a minor tune up and it will work fine. I don’t really care at this point, I just want my almost 900 dollar saw to run smoothly.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!




View Mongolas's profile

Mongolas

5 posts in 463 days



63 comments so far

View tefinn's profile

tefinn

1220 posts in 1185 days


#1 posted 09-16-2013 07:53 AM

Are you saying that the saw hasn’t been wired to 110v yet and you’re trying to run it, or that it has been rewired and the saw has trouble making the cut. If you’re trying to run the saw on 110 and it’s still wired for 220, the saw will be under powered, if it runs at all. If you already rewired to 110, check to make sure it’s correct.

-- Tom Finnigan - Measures? We don't need no stinking measures! - Hmm, maybe thats why my project pieces don't fit.

View ellen35's profile

ellen35

2596 posts in 2180 days


#2 posted 09-16-2013 09:03 AM

Also, check the belt. A friend had the same problem with being underpowered for cutting 3/4 inch material and it turned out the belt was too loose!

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1505 posts in 1380 days


#3 posted 09-16-2013 10:49 AM

How about that blade? What brand? How old? Sharp or dull?

View lab7654's profile

lab7654

254 posts in 994 days


#4 posted 09-16-2013 11:20 AM

Are you using the stock blade? If so, ditch it and find yourself a Freud or an Irwin Marples. I only use the stock blades on any saw if I’m cutting questionable material.

-- Tristin King -- When in doubt, sand it.

View Don Johnson's profile

Don Johnson

624 posts in 1528 days


#5 posted 09-16-2013 11:34 AM

You said:
“I do have a theory, that maybe the gauge wire I used was too thick, and I’m losing power over the length of the cord.”

Unless that was a typo – the thicker the wire the better because of the LESS resistance it will have, and the LESS volt drop over its length.

-- Don, Somerset UK, http://www.donjohnson24.co.uk

View dbray45's profile

dbray45

2617 posts in 1524 days


#6 posted 09-16-2013 11:37 AM

The saw has a 2 HP motor. This thing is drawing 16A at 110 volts when running. Most apartments’ wiring is not sized for a load as this. Requires at least 12 gauge wire (I would use 10) for this – including the extension cord.

When I did apartments, most (at best) had 14 gauge wire in the walls.

The wire should be sized at what the motor’s rated locked rotor amps (LRA). This is the maximum amount of amps the motor is going to draw if the motor is on and cannot move.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View michelletwo's profile

michelletwo

2290 posts in 1763 days


#7 posted 09-16-2013 12:00 PM

I believe you are trying to run too big a motor/ drawing too many amps from what is probably a 15 amp circuit. Even at 20 amps the machine would have trouble. When you ask it to saw thru thick stuff it is drawing elec like crazy to try to keep up, but it does not get enuf juice. So it bogs down. No matter what you do, you are drawing more amperage than your apartment can provide.

-- We call the destruction of replaceable human made items vandalism, while the destruction of irreplaceable natural resources is called development.

View MarkwithaK's profile

MarkwithaK

370 posts in 1926 days


#8 posted 09-16-2013 12:36 PM

While I don’t have this saw I can say that on my sub 2HP Ridgid when the blade dulls it bogs down through 1X hardwoods but with a new/sharp blade it cuts just fine. One other thing I got away from was using combo blades. Using a blade for it’s one intended purpose seems to help as well. Just my .02cents though.

-- If at first you don't succeed then maybe skydiving isn't for you.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11507 posts in 1438 days


#9 posted 09-16-2013 02:21 PM

I have that same saw and have cut a LOT of tough woods with it. I have never bogged it down or found it lacking in power. Mine is running on 220 volts but if you have a 20 A service and wire of sufficient size you should be good. I suspect your blade is the problem. I use a 24 tooth Freud Diablo for the majority of my cuts. I know this is a rip blade but I get excellent crosscuts using a ZCI and backer boards (even in 3/16” plywood!). The stock blade is a really poor quality 40 tooth combo blade. Try a 24 tooth Diablo and get back to us.

Edit- Your comment that “the blade takes a few seconds to start” concerns me. Does the motor start instantly and then the belt slips?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Bill1974's profile

Bill1974

55 posts in 1733 days


#10 posted 09-16-2013 02:37 PM

running it at 220 or 110 shouldn’t make a noticeable difference if all the a wiring is properly sized and there are no other loads on the circuit. The larger the wire the better, you can really never go to big, only downside is the cost.

If you have this on a 110 volt circuit with a 15 amp breaker, I would guess it should be tripping the breaker when the saw bogs down or stalls out. A 20 amp circuit would be better, you should be able to allow the saw to pull more power, and there should be less voltage drop when the saw is running. Is the distance from the breaker panel far from the saw (wiring distance)? if so larger wire is the way to go.

Also not knowing the saw blade and/or technique being used we can only guess. On thicker materials are you having the saw blade just high enough to cut the material or are you raising the blade so it’s 1/4” to 1/2” above the material you are cutting, higher might be even better, you will have less of the blade cutting at one time.

View brtech's profile

brtech

712 posts in 1670 days


#11 posted 09-16-2013 03:22 PM

Do you have a multimeter? If not, get a cheapie. Hook to the 110V and watch the voltage as you cut. See if it droops below 108 or so. You would expect a droop as it starts, but if it’s dropping significantly as you cut, then the wiring is not good enough.

View Mongolas's profile

Mongolas

5 posts in 463 days


#12 posted 09-16-2013 05:12 PM

Thank you all for the replies. Currently, the only blade I have is the stock blade. I’m not sure how many amps our apartment has, but I’m sure I can open the box and see if it shows the amps on the circuit breakers.

The belt is pretty tight, I’m actually a bit concerned regarding how tight it is, but the customer service guy I spoke with on the phone said the tightness of the belt should be compared to the tension of a guitar string, which sounds like too much, but I did it anyways. Still spins up about the same, so I didn’t think much of it after that.

What you’re all saying regarding wire gauges makes sense. The power cord I had to use was a cut section of extension cord I had lying around. I also have to plug that into another extension cord, so maybe that’s the problem. I just didn’t think it was going to make that much difference.

I do plan to get a new blade when I get the money, as well as a multimeter, since both would be nice to have.

Hopefully by April or May of next year, my wife and I will have moved out of this place and and into our own house with a nice sized garage or barn of some sort.

The problem is, I pretty much have no say in anything, since it’s an apartment, otherwise I could do my own wiring, or get friends and family to come help, to make sure I didn’t wire anything wrong.

Regarding blade height, I’ve not messed with that very much, but from what I can recall when I was doing test cuts, it didn’t seem to really matter a whole lot. Although I’m sure when I had the blade as high as it could go, it cut a little better, but 3/4 inch stock cut with a blade at maximum height makes it a bit awkward to cut, so I didn’t want to bother.

I’m also getting use to the riving knife. It’s a dream, and I’m so use to expecting the table saw to laugh in my face, just before it kicks back a piece of wood into my face, it’s making me hesitant. Granted, I was pretty careful with the table saw I had before, but still.

This is by far the best forum I’ve found to get information. Nobody is being insulting, it’s all helpful.

I like the idea of ditching combo blades, I had an 80 tooth Diablo laminate blade and it cuts incredibly in 3/4 inch Baltic birch. I probably made the mistake by cutting oak and other hardwoods, but it cut really nicely, until it gunked up with pitch and resin from the woods.

I ended up giving that blade to my dad, which I’m actually regretting, but my problem there was, I had no way to sharpen them, never sharpened a saw blade before. If anyone has any advice regarding a good way to sharpen saw blades, I would really appreciate it. The 80 tooth diablo blade was the triple chip grind, which I would think would be next to impossible to sharpen evenly, but if there’s a sharpener out there, I’ll get it, and might have to get my blade back from my dad, it’s a great blade. Got it at a liquidation warehouse for 3 bucks!! Not a single tooth was chipped, and they all still seemed to be pretty sharp!

I’ll also double check my wiring, and see about getting the appropriate connectors for the ends of the wires.

Thanks again!

Sam

View MrFid's profile

MrFid

568 posts in 652 days


#13 posted 09-16-2013 05:20 PM

Blade issues could be your problem. It makes much more of a difference than you might think. Remember: more teeth (like 80!) produces a cleaner cut (sometimes) but you sacrifice feed rate. Read Knotscott’s blog here. It’s a quality read that explains a lot in great detail. Even without power load issues, 80 teeth seems like a lot to me. I run a Forrest 40T ATB/R thin-kerf for crosscutting and ripping through a saw with much less power no problem. I do 8/4 purpleheart without a hiccup at 110V. When I switch to the 40T Ridgid stock blade it binds up sometimes to a halt. 40T is probably going to leave you with a clean enough finish. Even less teeth needed for ripping (like 24). You’ll also get less burning.
Take other’s suggestions about investigating power as well (also important), but consider getting a new blade before you return the saw.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3556 posts in 1561 days


#14 posted 09-16-2013 05:29 PM

Two things spring to mind…
1. If you were ripping rough lumber, that can be an issue. You say you were cutting a slab – was it jointed first? One of my big rules for safety and success on the tablesaw is always start with a freshly jointed edge. Otherwise the blade will bind.
2. Go to Home Depot and spend $20 on a thin kerf Diablo 1024 ripping blade. If that blade slows at all, even with 8/4 hardwood, you have a problem with the saw.

Regarding the length of the cord… my Jet is plugged into a long, heavy duty extension cord and works normally. The gauge of wire, and the new wiring should be per Grizzly specs.

Best of luck!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ThorinOakenshield's profile

ThorinOakenshield

97 posts in 846 days


#15 posted 09-16-2013 07:25 PM

Amen to the blade advise. Also, don’t junk the miter gauge, square it up, locking down and turn it into a jig for box joints, slap a sacrificial support on there for running dado cross cuts or something. At least it has holes for mounting stuff. I had to mill my own holes for my contractor miter gauge. (I have an incra too but didn’t want to ruin it.)

-- -Thorin Oakenshield, King Under the Mountain

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