LumberJocks

Not bad - Not Good.

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Review by MarkTheFiddler posted 08-19-2013 03:00 AM 1697 views 1 time favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Not bad - Not Good. No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Tried the 10.99 spray bottle from Rockler. I’ve got to say the Pitch wiped right off.

What I liked:

No harsh chemicals. Used unprotected hands. (There is an allergy warning on the bottle and ingesting the fluid calls for a trip to the ER.”
Product has a citrus smell similar to fast orange hand cleaner.
Works well on Pitch.
Don’t need wire brushes. The video shows me using 0000 steel wool but a washcloth did just as well

What was so-so.
Limited Window to clean blades. If product dries off before you begin to clean – you must reapply.

What I didn’t like.
Didn’t work on areas with hard light colored residue. Is that Resin? It didn’t work at all on the spots and no amount of re-spraying helped.

My opinion:
I’ll keep looking.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!




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MarkTheFiddler

1801 posts in 854 days



11 comments so far

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11554 posts in 1772 days


#1 posted 08-19-2013 03:07 AM

The thing to use is heavy duty Easy Off Oven Cleaner. You have to hold your breath when spraying it, but it works so good! I use a 1/2” dowel with a notch in it to hold the blade so I don’t get any on my hands and spray it in the washtub. I just bought 2 more cans and used it Saturday on 2 blades. they look like new!!

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1801 posts in 854 days


#2 posted 08-19-2013 03:48 AM

Thank you much Jim!

I have a question. Have you heard about the oven cleaner dissolving the binding between the carbide and the kerf? That’s the only “potentially” negative thing I have heard. Then again, I highly respect your opinion and you have gone a lot further down that road than I. I’m buying easy off next time.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View HillbillyShooter's profile

HillbillyShooter

4650 posts in 958 days


#3 posted 08-19-2013 03:56 AM

CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner is the product I’ve used for the past 15-years or more. It probably is not as fast as Jim’s oven cleaner, but I don’t have to hold my breath, it’s orange flavored/scented and water soluble. I just spray it on and let it sit for awhile, come back and brush each tooth at each cutting angle, applying more as needed, and then wash off with hot water and dry with paper towels. I ordered a gallon from Ace Tools a couple of years ago and have about 2/3s unused so it lasts fairly well. And, yes, I regularly clean my blades and don’t allow any build up because they simply cut better and cleaner without any pitch. Good luck on your quest or a cleaner. I also understand Simple Green works well.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1243 days


#4 posted 08-19-2013 06:36 AM

I use that stuff; have been for years.
I use it differently from the directions though; I use it at full strength, let the blade or bit soak for 10-15 minutes and everything wipes off very easily. And I’ve cleaned some really charred router bits with it.

The used cleaner goes back in the bottle. I’m on the same bottle I bought when I started woodworking 8+ years ago.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4046 posts in 995 days


#5 posted 08-19-2013 03:15 PM

What NiteWalker said…. use it in a large, shallow tupperware, soak, and when done, cover and store for next time.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2969 posts in 1153 days


#6 posted 08-19-2013 03:29 PM

Mark, It seems to me that the mechanical connection between the steel and the carbide provided by brazing bronze on the better blades would preclude something like oven cleaner from affecting it.
After all, oven cleaner is usually just Lye in one form or another.
If the Lye wasn’t rinsed off it might affect the bond, maybe, possibly, but if you are like me, once you clean a blade you rinse it in boiling water to remove any residue and help it to dry quickly.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10981 posts in 1356 days


#7 posted 08-19-2013 04:29 PM

Mark, I have soaked mine in straight Simple Green (purple formula) for years and never had a problem with the brazing. I pour it back in the jug and reuse it so really cheap. I soak overnight in a shallow pizza pan and then rinse with nozzle on the hose.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3390 posts in 1479 days


#8 posted 08-19-2013 06:05 PM

1+ Simple Green Purple. I use it diluted 50% with water, and it works like a charm.
Available at HD in gallon jugs.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View MarkTheFiddler's profile

MarkTheFiddler

1801 posts in 854 days


#9 posted 08-19-2013 06:13 PM

Thank you all very much! I appreciate your words of wisdom and experience.

-- Thanks for all the lessons!

View ChrisK's profile

ChrisK

1169 posts in 1748 days


#10 posted 08-19-2013 07:16 PM

There was a post regarding Simple Green a few weeks ago stating the comments from simple green below. It would be nice if a metallurgist could comment on how long it takes for the cobalt binder to be damaged.

Here is what Carol Chapin from Simple Green has to say on the matter:

“Simple Green has been successfully used by many woodworkers over many years as a good spray-wipe-and rinse cleaner for saw blades. When pitch is fairly fresh (within a 12 hour period of deposit,) it is fairly easily removed by Simple Green. Older, dried out pitch is much more difficult to remove. What we do not recommend is long-term soaking of cobalt/carbide blades in Simple Green. Long exposure like this can possibly cause cobalt leaching that will, in turn, effect the integrity of the carbide. Shorter term “spray/wipe/rinse” applications do not pose that kind of problem. We would recommend dwell times of full-strength Simple Green upon cobalt/carbide steel to be no more than about 15 minutes.

As mentioned in my earlier email, if you have a blade that has an older, tougher buildup of pitch, try soaking the blade in strong coffee overnight. Several folks have told us that this does work.”

-- Chris K

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3390 posts in 1479 days


#11 posted 08-20-2013 05:35 PM

The green (original) simple green has those limitations. The purple simple green is approved for soaking carbide tooling. All of my blade pitch is >12 hrs old. Sometimes I forget the blade in the soaking tray. That’s why I chose simple green purple.

I spoke with a rep at simple green, and he said the same as ChrisK.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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