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Not recommended for shellac

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Review by Purrmaster posted 659 days ago 2302 views 0 times favorited 31 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Not recommended for shellac No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I got this stuff after I saw that the finishing test counter at Rockler had a bottle of this. I was using shellac for the first time so I got this denatured alcohol instead of the “regular” denatured alcohol. I was hoping it might have a bit less toxicity.

After sticking my shellac flakes in (2 oz of shellac) and measuring out 6 ounces of alcohol I let the jar sit overnight. And basically nothing happened. So I shake and stir and it makes no difference. I even put the jar in some hot water. Nothing. I end up with a gloopy mass of shellac at the bottom of the jar.

After about 2 weeks the shellac finally dissolved fully. I figured I screwed something up. So for my next batch (same amounts of shellac and alcohol) I ground up the shellac flakes in the blender to a fine powder. I measured out the alcohol and let it sit.

It’s been 3-4 days now and the shellac is not dissolving any faster than the last batch. I have a gloopy mass that I can’t use.

For comparison, on my third batch of shellac I got Klean Strip’s regular SLX denatured alcohol. In about a day the shellac is fully dissolved. I didn’t even grind up the flakes.

Bottom line: This “Green” stuff doesn’t work well for shellac. I would have given it just one star but the shellac does eventually dissolve. The Green stuff smells just as bad as it’s SLX counterpart so I doubt it’s any less toxic.




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Purrmaster

774 posts in 698 days



31 comments so far

View JJohnston's profile

JJohnston

1577 posts in 1896 days


#1 posted 659 days ago

Do they say what’s in it? Frankly, I can’t imagine the need for a “green” DNA – after all, ethanol is a totally natural product. It’s just yeast poop.

-- "Sorry I'm late. Somebody tampered with my brakes." "You should have been early, then."

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1204 posts in 975 days


#2 posted 659 days ago

Thanks for the warning. Also avoid the “green” mineral spirits. It’s a milky white emulsion and is useless except for cleaning brushes.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View patron's profile

patron

12977 posts in 1946 days


#3 posted 659 days ago

the first time i tried water based contact cement
i couldn’t get it to stick worth a dam

give me good old lacquer based

pretty soon they will have
‘new and improved formula’
eco-friendly for all finishes

WATER !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Puffin's profile

Puffin

22 posts in 1253 days


#4 posted 659 days ago

Sorry for your troubles and thanks for the heads up. Well at least one silver lining is you helped some of us from having a similar experience.

View joewilliams's profile

joewilliams

88 posts in 730 days


#5 posted 659 days ago

thanks for the warning!

-- Joe - - - something witty should go here - - -

View ChrisForthofer's profile

ChrisForthofer

150 posts in 1672 days


#6 posted 659 days ago

Green alcohol? That’s a new one on me… While I have no problems with “green” products, I generally steer clear of them. If it works as well or better than its non-green counterpart, great, but usually they fall short like this one did. Thanks for the review.

Chris.

-- -Director of slipshod craftsmanship and attention deficit woodworking

View crank49's profile

crank49

3343 posts in 1576 days


#7 posted 658 days ago

They probably made it “GREEN” by dilluting it with 50% water, then jack the price up 50% because it’s “GREEN”.
Sad thing is that this marketing scam works and creates millions of dollars in sales for basicly inferior products.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1204 posts in 975 days


#8 posted 658 days ago

The green MS is an emulsion and I surmise that it does contain some amount of water. I tried making a wiping poly by mixing it with oil-based poly and wiped on a coat, and 5 days later it was still tacky. Brought the container back to HD and got my money back.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View denovich's profile

denovich

30 posts in 1428 days


#9 posted 658 days ago

The Kleen Strip Green is almost entirely Ethanol (ethyl alcohol, the kind you drink)... Check out the MSDS: http://www.wmbarr.com/ProductFiles/KSG%20Denatured%20Alcohol.pdf

The regular Kleen Strip DNA is about 50% Ethanol, 50% Methanol (the kind that makes you blind)...
http://www.wmbarr.com/ProductFiles/1625%206%20KS%20Denatured%20Alcohol%209%2012%2012.pdf

Everything I’ve read about Shellac is that Ethanol is the preferred solvent. Shellac might dissolve faster in it, but too much methanol causes issues when it dries. I exclusively use the Kleen Strip Green as it’s the only 95% Ethanol DNA that’s easy to obtain, and I certainly prefer not being exposed to methanol.

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 698 days


#10 posted 658 days ago

Now that is interesting. So the tradeoff for it dissolving slowly is that the shellac may go on better? That does change my perspective a bit.

What kind of problems does too much methanol cause? I’ll be doing a sort of “head to head” between the two alcohols once everything dries. It may not be a fair test though because I mixed a 2 pound cut with the regular denatured and a 3 pound cut with the Green stuff.

Thanks for the information.

View WoodworkGuy's profile

WoodworkGuy

60 posts in 1399 days


#11 posted 658 days ago

Glad to know. Definitely won’t buy this stuff for shellac. Will have to see how it works for other things. Thanks for the review!

-- Making sawdust and memories through woodworking.

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 698 days


#12 posted 658 days ago

Please do note denovich’s post. He has a counter argument that the “green” stuff is better when it gets to the shellac actually drying. If so, that would largely negate my review. Can anyone else comment on this? I don’t want to knock a product incorrectly because I don’t have enough facts.

View GarageWoodworks's profile

GarageWoodworks

419 posts in 761 days


#13 posted 658 days ago

denovich nailed it. The green is >90% ethanol and the regular is 50% ethanol 50% methanol. Apparently shellac is more soluble in methanol than ethanol.

In order to salvage your green ethanol, buy a container of methanol from the BORG and cut your green ethanol in half to make a solution of roughly 50:50 ethanol/methanol. That way you won’t waste it.

-- Subscribe on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/GarageWoodworks?feature=guide

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

774 posts in 698 days


#14 posted 658 days ago

But does a higher methanol content lead to the shellac having drying problems?

View GarageWoodworks's profile

GarageWoodworks

419 posts in 761 days


#15 posted 658 days ago

No. The higher the methanol content the faster the drying time should be the only difference you see.

-- Subscribe on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/GarageWoodworks?feature=guide

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