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Be safer, retrofil this switch on your older equipment

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Review by b2rtch posted 737 days ago 2177 views 5 times favorited 20 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Be safer, retrofil this switch on your older equipment Be safer, retrofil this switch on your older equipment No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I had a serious problem a short while ago with a jointer I just bought, starting unexpectedly, creating serious damages but more importantly it could have cost me my life or at least some very serious injury.
You can read the story here:
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40359#reply-477310

Until yesterday morning when helping some one else with this switch, I used only the paddle of the switch that I installed on the existing equipment in my shop.
Yesterday I understood how to correctly wire this switch so that it would function as designed.
No wiring instruction come with the switch causing people like to stumble when installing it.

The reason for the accident with my jointer is that by accident, while moving it the machine, the switch was set in the “on” position causing the motor to start as soon as I plugged the cord in.

The switch from Woodstock has an integrated magnetic coil which hold the contacts in as long as there is power to the switch. As soon as ,for any reason, the power is interrupted the contacts are open/released preventing the motor the start again by itself when the power is restored.

In addition this switch is very easy to install in an existing box and to wire: there are four posts on the switch, the two wires coming from the wall connect to the two bottom posts , the two wires going to motor connect to the top post. Just make sure to connect hot to hot and neutral to neutral.

I extremely strongly recommend to all of you to retrofit your old equipment with this switch.
It could save your life, injuries or at the very least expensive repairs and aggravations.

Bert

-- Bert




View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4310 posts in 1675 days



20 comments so far

View jlasersmith's profile

jlasersmith

45 posts in 778 days


#1 posted 737 days ago

Nice review.Thanks again for helping me wire that thing up.

-- I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. -Kurt Vonnegut

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4310 posts in 1675 days


#2 posted 737 days ago

You are welcome.

I forgot to mention two things:
this switch is very inexpensive: $10.62
It can be purchased here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17HSA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

-- Bert

View Dan Krager's profile

Dan Krager

1516 posts in 861 days


#3 posted 737 days ago

I cringed when I saw your original post. You were very fortunate.

All my “high power” machines are equipped with magnetic coil thermally protected switches. Power cannot be applied accidentally…it has to be a deliberate act upon a recessed button. If the power goes off during use the machine will not restart by itself when the power comes back on. The switches are very expensive so it’s not uncommon to see shortcuts taken that are just not appropriate. I purchased a lot of machines that were in a shop fire caused by bad wiring. When I examined the machines, I was not surprised that the shop burned.

Thank you for pointing this out. When I leave the shop I also throw the master breaker off.

Dan

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4310 posts in 1675 days


#4 posted 737 days ago

Dan, the big advantage of this switch is that it provides the safety of a magnetic switch to older machines which are not equipped with one for a extremely economical price.
Cost cannot be an excuse to not retrofit older machines with this switch.

-- Bert

View brtech's profile

brtech

664 posts in 1549 days


#5 posted 737 days ago

You linked to the 220V version of the switch. The 110V version appears to be:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4310 posts in 1675 days


#6 posted 737 days ago

brtech, thank you for the additional information.
I used the 220 Volts version.

-- Bert

View brtech's profile

brtech

664 posts in 1549 days


#7 posted 737 days ago

Okay, but then you don’t have a neutral, you have two hots.

110 = hot and neutral
220 = 2 hots

H – - – N – - – H
[110- ] [-110]
[- – - 220 – - -]

Both have grounds.

4 posts would have two hot supply and two hot load, no neutral
With the 110V switch you would have one hot and one neutral supply and one hot, one neutral load

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4310 posts in 1675 days


#8 posted 737 days ago

brtech, you are correct but it does not change anything about the wiring, black to black and white to white.
This is the only thing I was trying to explain.
Bert

-- Bert

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5378 posts in 1859 days


#9 posted 737 days ago

I need one of these for my drum sander build. I want to wire the sander 220V. (1.5 HP motor). I got the 110V/220V version from Peachtree for my band saw. Planning on changing voltages on that to 220V as well…

I agree, those paddle switches are great!

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3725 posts in 2290 days


#10 posted 736 days ago

I have retrofitted both my router table and drum sander with these switches … I consider them a wise investment!

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2829 posts in 875 days


#11 posted 736 days ago

Does the device need to be wired directly to this? I need a switch for my drill press table and router table

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View b2rtch's profile

b2rtch

4310 posts in 1675 days


#12 posted 736 days ago

Joe, I am not sure that I understand your question.
As I wrote above the switch is very simple to wire; on the bottom you connect the tow wires from the wall, on the top you connect eh tow wires going the motor.
iF YOU ASK IF THIS SWITCH NEEDS TO BE MOUNTED RIGHT ON THE MACHINE, MY ANSWER IS NO.

-- Bert

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2829 posts in 875 days


#13 posted 736 days ago

I just want to plug the router or drill press into the switch, not hard wire to the motor

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View Rex B's profile

Rex B

310 posts in 877 days


#14 posted 736 days ago

Joe, if you wanted you could cut the female end off an extension cord and wire it to this switch. I did this on my router table with a similar switch, and used a female end with 3 outlets so I could plug in a shop vac along with the router and switch both.

-- Rex

View wunderaa's profile

wunderaa

187 posts in 829 days


#15 posted 736 days ago

Thanks for the review. It got me thinking that I need to upgrade the switch on my old Craftsman jointer. After a quick trip over to Amazon and $11 later, I’m good to go. Thanks!

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