Be safer, retrofil this switch on your older equipment

Nice review.Thanks again for helping me wire that thing up.

-- I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. -Kurt Vonnegut

You are welcome.

I forgot to mention two things:
this switch is very inexpensive: $10.62
It can be purchased here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17HSA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

-- Bert

I cringed when I saw your original post. You were very fortunate.

All my “high power” machines are equipped with magnetic coil thermally protected switches. Power cannot be applied accidentally…it has to be a deliberate act upon a recessed button. If the power goes off during use the machine will not restart by itself when the power comes back on. The switches are very expensive so it’s not uncommon to see shortcuts taken that are just not appropriate. I purchased a lot of machines that were in a shop fire caused by bad wiring. When I examined the machines, I was not surprised that the shop burned.

Thank you for pointing this out. When I leave the shop I also throw the master breaker off.

Dan

-- Dan Krager, Olney IL http://www.kragerwoodworking.weebly.com

Dan, the big advantage of this switch is that it provides the safety of a magnetic switch to older machines which are not equipped with one for a extremely economical price.
Cost cannot be an excuse to not retrofit older machines with this switch.

-- Bert

You linked to the 220V version of the switch. The 110V version appears to be:
http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

brtech, thank you for the additional information.
I used the 220 Volts version.

-- Bert

Okay, but then you don’t have a neutral, you have two hots.

110 = hot and neutral
220 = 2 hots

H – - – N – - – H
[110- ] [-110]
[- – - 220 – - -]

Both have grounds.

4 posts would have two hot supply and two hot load, no neutral
With the 110V switch you would have one hot and one neutral supply and one hot, one neutral load

brtech, you are correct but it does not change anything about the wiring, black to black and white to white.
This is the only thing I was trying to explain.
Bert

-- Bert

I need one of these for my drum sander build. I want to wire the sander 220V. (1.5 HP motor). I got the 110V/220V version from Peachtree for my band saw. Planning on changing voltages on that to 220V as well…

I agree, those paddle switches are great!

-- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations!

I have retrofitted both my router table and drum sander with these switches … I consider them a wise investment!

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

Does the device need to be wired directly to this? I need a switch for my drill press table and router table

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

Joe, I am not sure that I understand your question.
As I wrote above the switch is very simple to wire; on the bottom you connect the tow wires from the wall, on the top you connect eh tow wires going the motor.
iF YOU ASK IF THIS SWITCH NEEDS TO BE MOUNTED RIGHT ON THE MACHINE, MY ANSWER IS NO.

-- Bert

I just want to plug the router or drill press into the switch, not hard wire to the motor

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

Joe, if you wanted you could cut the female end off an extension cord and wire it to this switch. I did this on my router table with a similar switch, and used a female end with 3 outlets so I could plug in a shop vac along with the router and switch both.

-- Rex

Thanks for the review. It got me thinking that I need to upgrade the switch on my old Craftsman jointer. After a quick trip over to Amazon and $11 later, I’m good to go. Thanks!