|Review by anobium||posted 01-13-2012 04:06 PM||40995 views||2 times favorited||18 comments|
The Makita MLT 100 is the smaller sister of the 2705.
Here are the specs Makita provides.
Main table 610×590 mm
with Sub table 760×790 mm
Bore mm 30 mm (1 ¼ inch)
Depth of Cut @ 90° 93 mm (3 ¾ inch)
Blade Diameter 260 mm (10 inch)
Depth of Cut @ 45º 64 mm
No load speed 4500 rpm
Net weight 38 kg (80 lbs)
Wattage 1500 w
Voltage 220 V 50/60 Hz
Price: 410€ – 720€ (530$ – 950$) Europe
My first impression:
I liked it a lot. Size and weight met my expectations for the saw I needed.
A sliding table on a jobsite saw for that price made it about perfect.
It came pretty much assembled, just the blade and weaver where extra.
The first cut through 18mm (3/4 inch) plywood went smooth.
That was it until I had built the stand.
Once the saw was up on the stand i wanted to start building boxes and that is where trouble started and I had to examine the saw closer. So here is my review for those around the globe who are intending to buy that saw.
Sliding Table: The table didn’t run smooth at all. The factory lubricants goo’ed it together. It was quite a bit of work to get it out there.
Lubricating it with silicone lets it run but the way it is constructed gives it so much play to the sides that it is not accurate at all.
Another disadvantace ist that is about 1,5mm (1/8 inch) higher than the main table so no matter what you cut reaches the blade angled.
Makita doesn’t provide any information for a setup.
I’m still working on this.
Rip Fence: Unlike other jobsite table saws the MLT Fence is only mounted on the front. Its mounting mechanism is cast aluminum. It runs on a small plastic base.
On top of it comes a adjustable part where the exdruded aluminum fence is attached with two screws. To my mind too many variables for a sturdy fence.
The aluminium fence with only 15mm (2/3 inch) is way to flexible. It barely makes it past the blade and doesn’t provide enough support for straight cuts.
Setting the fence up is a pain in the butt. The plastic base reflects the highs and lows in the surface. You have to adjust the fence in every position so it lays flat on the table.
The screws loosen after a couple cuts.
The mounting mechanism has play in every direction which may cause a non 90° angle to the surface. The easiest way to solve a few of these problems ist by taking the plastic base out and accept the wear and tear that the cast aluminium does to the table. The fence is still not stable when ripping longer boards and easily causes kick back. The way it is constructed it can be readjusted to be used on both sides.
I am working on a easy build custom fence for less than 40€ (52$) and let you all know if it makes the saw a decent deal.
Now here Makita screwed up big time. The plate is cheap and flexible plastic. Any pressure you put on the wood you are cutting bends the throat plate and screwes up the cut. The clearance they put in is more than any angle postion needs.
The tear off at the bottom of the board is really ugly.
Simple solution a zero clearance throat plate.
Well if you could just make one simple everything would be fine.
The 5mm (1/5 inch) wood insert I made was to flexible. It needed a rabbet at the end to fit in in the first place but adding 12mm (1/2 inch) plywood on the right side asked for a lot of extra cuts.
The support on the left side was tricky. It needs to have 1mm difference between front and back. I am happy that I built it because now I get good result talking about clean cuts.
It takes about 2 hours and half a dictionary of cusswords to assemble it.
The Cast Aluminum Table: I don’t get the point why Makita added these design slots and logo to the table.
If you are looking for something flat, look somewhere else. I guess it is okay for a saw in that price range.
The wear an tear becomes abvious after a couple cuts with the mitre gauge.
The table comes with 2 slots for runners. The slots are 12,54mm (1/2 inch) wide and 6mm (1/4 inch) deep. A little small for stable runners especially when you look and slots addes to the side to guide the mitre gauge.
I am afraid to measure if they have the same width all the way from front to back. I can tell you though that they don’t have the same depth.
The Mitre Gauge.
The mitre gauge is also cast aluminium with the extruded aluminum fence attached with 2 screwes just like the rip fence.
The earlier mentioned problems strike back here.
If you use the mitre gauge on the sliding table it’s elevated above the main table.
If you run the mitre gauge on the main table the fence has to be lifted or angled so it runs over the sliding table.
Running the the mitre gauge on the main table brings another problem. The steel runner is 0,5mm smaller than the slot which causes so much play that I haven’t made a single 90° cut no matter what I set up or how I pusched, how tight it was if I added support or whatever. I haven’t figured that one out yet. Current idea a PA (polyamid) runner that is exact for that slot.
The mitre gauge is responsible for the main wear and tear on the table surface. 2month occasionally use wore of the paint already at all high spots.
Dust Extraction: That ist he only thing I am happy with so far. An attached shop vac takes care of it. Every now and then I need to vacuum the stand but it is not worth mentioning.
Table Extension: The MLT comes with an extendable outfeed table and extendable side table. Both run on pipes and can be adjusted to any position but I haven’t had any use for it yet. In fact I am planning on taking the outfeed option of to attach railing for new rip fence.
Noise. The direct drive causes vibration when starting the saw and it quite noisy.
It is just about same as other jobsite saws.
Neat options: The saw has all kinds of attachments to store the push stick, extra blades, the square to setting up the blade, the rip fence, cable and so on.
It is well thought through but doesn’t make up fort he deficits.
-- Whoever finds mistakes can keep them. English is a foreign language to me.