LumberJocks

expensive but worthy!

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Review by slickSqueegie posted 967 days ago 3597 views 8 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch
expensive but worthy! No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

durable enough for a floor and nice looking enough for furniture! Clean-up is simple! and the finish drys a lot faster than their oil based.

I didnt even have to thin it out to use with my sprayer!

-- Come check out more of my projects at http://www.mdwoodart.com




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slickSqueegie

94 posts in 1024 days



19 comments so far

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jeepturner

920 posts in 1394 days


#1 posted 967 days ago

I use it on anything that I don’t want to yellow. I like that I can use it on curly maple and it leaves the color the same a a if you had just wetted it with water. It does require a bit more sanding, because it raises the grain.
I first used it on a table following an article in a Fine Woodworking magazine.

-- Mel,

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slickSqueegie

94 posts in 1024 days


#2 posted 967 days ago

well, try using tung oil on your stuff before the polycrylic.
the way I finish almost everything is with at least three heavy coats of tung oil and sandded after the second coat of the tung. Then spray it with the polycrylic 2 coats is all it takes. and the tung oil does wonders for the grain “pop” effect!

Linseed oil does the same thing tung oil does so either one works great. just make sure it is completely dry after the last coat of oil based finish before going with the water based stuff.

-- Come check out more of my projects at http://www.mdwoodart.com

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ChuckC

679 posts in 1537 days


#3 posted 967 days ago

I love this stuff. I especially use it on wood that I don’t want to darken like padauk and purpleheart.
The can recommends to not thin, does anyone do it anyway? What do you use?

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Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1670 days


#4 posted 967 days ago

I’ve been using it for a couple of years and it’s my “go-to” finish. I usually have to thin it ~10% with water for my HVLP conversion gun. The can says that it isn’t recommended for floors because of the high wear, but I’ve used it in low traffic areas with good results.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

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NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1179 days


#5 posted 967 days ago

I never had any good results with polycrylic. I make boxes that are handled a lot, and the finish was rubbing off after some use (probably from the oils and sweat from handling). I’ve switched to crystalac 2001 and it’s a far superior finish. It dries faster, harder and about the only household substance that can damage it is acetone. It doesn’t yellow and is water clear too.

I don’t use oil (dries too slow for me) but I do use zinsser sealcoat (dewaxed shellac) to bring out the color of projects and to seal the wood since the water borne crystalac would raise the grain.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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JoeyG

1233 posts in 1227 days


#6 posted 967 days ago

I use this on my boxes. I use a cup sprayer and it does great. I haven’t experience the wear NiteWalker is speaking of. I made all of my kids boxes last Christmas. They carry them all over the house, use them for seats, and buts god knows what in them and it’s holding up better than I expected.

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

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hObOmOnk

1380 posts in 2729 days


#7 posted 967 days ago

”the way I finish almost everything is with at least three heavy coats of tung oil and sandded after the second coat of the tung. Then spray it with the polycrylic 2 coats is all it takes.”

That’s an extreme amount of Tung Oil. Why would you put another finish on top?

What brand of tung oil are you using?

Blessings,
Bro. Tenzin

-- 温故知新

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slickSqueegie

94 posts in 1024 days


#8 posted 967 days ago

Extreme?? Naaa, Thorough yes! The way you apply tung oil, is untill the woos stops sucking it in right away. the third coat usually does it for me.
I use the stuff from Rockler. It is the pure stuff, not the fake stuff that is labeld tung oil “finish” on the shelf at Home Depot.

-- Come check out more of my projects at http://www.mdwoodart.com

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JoeyG

1233 posts in 1227 days


#9 posted 967 days ago

how long do you wait between the last coat of tung oil and the first coat of poly? I know it’s subject to temp, humidity, etc. Just a rough estimate. I have been worried of it causing issues with adhesion if the project gets hot and the tung oil begins to weep out.

-- JoeyG ~~~ http://www.facebook.com/JHGWoodWorks

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dbhost

5378 posts in 1834 days


#10 posted 967 days ago

I use Polycrylic on projects I don’t want to yellow, I use standard Minwax Polyurethane on projects I want to add a yellow tint to… I have always been happy with their products EXCEPT Polyshades… Never get that to come out right…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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jim C

1452 posts in 1700 days


#11 posted 967 days ago

I’m using it for the first time on oak cabinet doors. I’m using the spray. (Gloss)
I sprayed it with a heavy coat until it looks like milk, went away for a couple hours, and it came out looking great. (1 coat)
I did a 1 minute sand on the flat faces with 600 grit to smooth it out and it’s like a baby’s a—
Anyone have a different technique?

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

View jayman7's profile

jayman7

212 posts in 2107 days


#12 posted 967 days ago

I love this stuff too! Sprays like a dream without runs and cleans up quick and easy. Each coat dries in a matter of hours too

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TerryElam

6 posts in 1278 days


#13 posted 965 days ago

I also use this finish. Great results each and every time I use it.

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baldeaglebaby

35 posts in 1605 days


#14 posted 965 days ago

I have not tried this product but I have just finished an oak chest using Varathane water based polyurathane and I can’t believe how well the water based product went on and dried so fast. Using my hvlp, I was putting on 1 coat an hour inside of my 60 degree garage. I thinned the material around 33%. I put on 8 thin coats in 8 hours and never had to clean out the sprayer until I was through with the project. Plenty of vertical surfaces and not a single run, and a quick wipe with 600 grit between coats. I’m not sure I will ever use the oil based products again!!

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mcase

438 posts in 1731 days


#15 posted 965 days ago

I hate yellow! I did my whole oak kitchen with this. I wet sand it between coats at 400 and finish with 600. Then a coat of furniture wax. Makes a nice clear surface. I’m not sure about floors though? I think the manufacturers does not recommend it for floors. Easy clean up with water too.

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