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Not Bad Afterall

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Review by pintodeluxe posted 1044 days ago 2815 views 0 times favorited 27 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Not Bad Afterall No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Had blade marks after ripping 1.5” white oak. Even after taking a skim cut with featherboard and zero clearance insert with thin kerf splitter I still had blade marks. Not burning, just the sort of cut that reveals its imperfections when you hold it up to the light. My industrial full kerf combination blade sure makes glassy smooth cuts compared to this one. In fact I had to switch back to the Freud combination blade to make skim cuts on all boards. Too much work. This one is going back in excahnge for an industrial thin kerf blade.

See follow-up on review below…

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush




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pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1446 days



27 comments so far

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5378 posts in 1865 days


#1 posted 1044 days ago

Which model specifically? I have had excellent results with Freud’s Diablo blades…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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DamnYankee

3233 posts in 1195 days


#2 posted 1044 days ago

Same question. Thanks for the review.

-- Shameless - Winner of two Stumpy Nubs Awards

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Routerisstillmyname

698 posts in 2142 days


#3 posted 1044 days ago

Wow, Freud makes the BEST saw blades and router bits bar none.
I’ve used Diablo 80 T the past two years with no issue even though the diablo line is their lower end blades.

-- Router è ancora il mio nome.

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pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1446 days


#4 posted 1044 days ago

This is the D1024X model. I think I’ll take it back and try the Freud thin kerf industrial blade, or maybe the new fusion blade.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View ChrisForthofer's profile

ChrisForthofer

150 posts in 1700 days


#5 posted 1044 days ago

What saw are you running it on? I found on my contractor saw that thin kerf blades performed poorly, put a full kerf on it and its beautiful.

-- -Director of slipshod craftsmanship and attention deficit woodworking

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11644 posts in 2321 days


#6 posted 1044 days ago

You’re likely to find that this is more for ripping framing than 1.5” hardwoods. What kind of saw are you using this on ?
I had similar issues using one on a bench top Delta model. Put the same blade on my JET and no problems : )
Did you use a blade stabilizer with it ?

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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PurpLev

8476 posts in 2282 days


#7 posted 1044 days ago

just to add some context – this is a ripping blade and is meant to speed up the ripping process when compared to a combination blade. this is not a glueline blade and is not meant to produce mirror finishes on lumber.

the question is – does it rip faster than your combination blade – that is it’s purpose in life.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View MoshupTrail's profile

MoshupTrail

291 posts in 1114 days


#8 posted 1044 days ago

Generally, the Diablo blades are more run-of-the-mill, big box store blades. The better Freuds are the “Industrial” series. How many teeth on your Industrial? That 24T Diablo might be a bit rough.

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

View maljr1980's profile

maljr1980

171 posts in 1089 days


#9 posted 1044 days ago

then kerf blades are made for underpowered saws, the vibrate and flex way to much. the thicker the kerf the better the cut. i wouldnt use a thin kerf on anything other than a portable saw

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TopamaxSurvivor

14726 posts in 2309 days


#10 posted 1044 days ago

PurpLev Thanks for pointing that out. A newbie wannabe like me would have never caught that it is a rip blade.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6174 posts in 1434 days


#11 posted 1044 days ago

I feel like if the “downside” of a $40 rip blade is that it leaves blade marks you can see when you hold it up to the light- it’s not a bad deal! I think these blades should be judged for what they are, mid/low priced blades. As such they preform better than expected (I’d give them 4 stars at least). If you are comparing them to a high end, full kerf, glue line blade, of course they only deserve two stars…

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1446 days


#12 posted 1044 days ago

I use a Jet 1.5 h.p. contractors saw. The diablo ripping blade is $28, and the industrial thin kerf ripping blade is $38, so pricepoint isn’t an issue. Also Freuds glue line rip blade is only designed to rip stock up to 1” thick. I need to cut 8/4 stock for chair and table parts. Freuds industrial 24 tooth ripping blade got 5 stars on Amazon, compared to the Diablos 3 stars. I took it back and ordered the industrial blade.
That said, I do like the Diablo 7-1/4” blades for cutting plywood- nice splinter-free cuts.
My only reason for posting this review is to save fellow woodworkers some hassle. If all you want is fast ripping cuts and you are not concerned with blade marks then you will be happy with the Diablo blade. I’ll let you know how the new blade works.
Cheers

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View David Craig's profile

David Craig

2135 posts in 1742 days


#13 posted 1042 days ago

As PurpLev already noted, this blade is more designed for reducing the bog that comes on an underpowered saw in which a full kerf might lead to burning when ripping a thicker hardwood board. Less teeth, more gullets, easier stock removal, less smooth a surface. Thinner kerf, more vibration on the arbor, less smooth a surface. What is the payoff? Less strain on the saw motor when working with thicker stock and it is much easier to finish plane/sand small saw marks than blade burns. Not having the funds (nor the machine) to see major beneifts from using the more expensive WWII style blades, I have been very happy with all of the Freud blades in my shop. I rarely use any other.

David

-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.

View dusty2's profile

dusty2

313 posts in 2062 days


#14 posted 1042 days ago

Are blade marks necessarily a bad thing? Only if you have paid the price to get a mirror finish smooth glue line cut. A $40 investment usually doesn’t do that.

I think you probably got what you paid for.

-- Making Sawdust Safely

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1446 days


#15 posted 1041 days ago

David – I have been happy with all my other Freud blades as well, but I don’t recommend the Diablo rip blade.

Dusty – Yes, blade marks are a bad thing. My Freud combination blade doesn’t leave blade marks. I have heard very good things about the Freud industrial 24 tooth ripping blade. I ordered it (less than $40) so we will see.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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