|Review by ic3ss||posted 07-25-2011 12:36 AM||2638 views||1 time favorited||8 comments|
I had this craftsman 5/8hp router that I inherited from my father-in-law a while ago. It was all plastic and really light. I used it to do some decorative inlay work, and for that it was ok. I did find that it’s light weight made it easy to make unintended movements when doing light touch work. I figured a heavier router would help.
I decided on the 895PK because it comes with a height adjustment crank that goes through a table insert to engage the elevation adjuster on the fixed base. I bought from Amazon and it arrived two days later. Unfortunately it was the beginning of my work week and I’ve not had any time to open it up until today. I had one final cut to make on my router table in progress, to cut a channel for a miter slot. I did all of the router work on this table so far with the old craftsman, and at times I though it was going to blow up in my face. The first time I started the new PC router it spools up so smooth and nice. It’s really quiet too. Not much for vibration, and the motor doesn’t bog down under load.
It just seems to work perfectly as advertised. I decided to not use the spindle lock when I put in my 3/4” bit, and instead used two wrenches, and didn’t tighten it very much, it doesn’t take that much, or you’ll damage the collet. I’ve heard so much about the spindle lock becoming damaged when it’s used. I personally believe it’s mostly due to over tightening, but that’s just my opinion. The pin is steel, spring loaded, and pushes into a hole in the steel shaft. I don’t really see how this would break very easily. I’m from the old school of mechanics, so I prefer using two wrenches, it’s safer for the tool.
The power switch is located pretty well, but it would be nice if it stuck out a bit more to be easier to just flip it on/off. It will just take some practice, no biggie. The only real gripe I have is about the case. The motor goes into the fixed base and lays on one side of the case, and the plunge base goes in the other side without the motor. The way the supports in the case are molded, you can’t put the motor in the plunge base and put it in the case, like if you have the fixed base installed on a table and you want to store the motor in the case. You can’t do it properly. I suppose I could force it to fit, but that’s not the point.
Thee plunge base was a joy to use. I mounted the bit, pushed the plunge down until the bit touched the table and locked it there. Then I put the miter rail I was trying to mount on the turret and lowered the bar onto it and locked it there. Then I unlocked the plunge and pushed it down until the depth stop hits the turret. Perfect depth of cut. Way easier that using a screw ring to eyeball the depth.
I’ve also heard a lot of gripes about the slop in the plunge action, side to side movement. While I don’t see much at all in mine, I will say that as far as I use a router, I think this is a non-issue. The only way this would be a problem is if you were using it to drill a hole straight down, and not move sideways at all. If you were doing that kind of a cut, there are better tools for it than a router. A drill press with a forstner bit comes to mind.
I’ve only had this router for a day, so take what you want from this review. I may revise it later after I’ve used it for a while. My opinion is that it’s a great buy, with fantastic fit and finish, lots of power, versatility, and accuracy.
Thanks for reading, and have a great day.
-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."