Hitachi Table Saw

Aw come on Obi, don’t hold back.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

Aren’t you afraid that the ”Big Hitachi God” will put a curse on you.

If your telling the truth though, you’ll be safe.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

I don’t have the time to suck up to the ”Big Hitachi God”, and all the reviews for the 5 Star products are great but if there is a safeety issue, or something bad with a product it is my responsibility to share it with my friends. Appearently the ”Big Hitachi Gods” don’t use power tools or they would have figured this out. And I’m not afraid because if Hitachi would have cared they would have stumbled across this review when I first posted it back in ‘06 when the thing caught fire.

But thanks for lookin out for me Dick.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I AM SO glad I just read this review…on the night I bought my Hitachi 12 Compound Mite Saw I looked at this saw…AND I almost BOUGHT IT..!!!!!!!!!!! Whew…that was close..!I didnt though and the next day I went to HD and bought the Ridgid TS3650 for LESS then the Hitachi.!I LOVE gift cards and discount coupons….LOL.

You’re alright Obi!!

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

You speak the truth Obi.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

Obi,

The HP ratings as I have learned reading the many forums is terribly misleading in that the 3.0 HP is the peak hp rating. As I learned looking at conversion tables Amps:HP is much more accurate measure of a tool’s power.

Unfortunately, manufactures like to use peak HP which is a much higher number than what the tool really produces. The HP rating is a much more familiar measure for most of us, so we tend either not be knowledgeable about what the amp rating means or ignore it when looking at power rating measures for tools.

With your experience, I hope there been or will be a product safety recall on this Hitachi saw.

Thanks for this stand up review.

Dalec

As I’ve progressed using the table saw (as I cannot afford to buy a new Griz) I realize that this would have been better designed with a direct shaft on the tilting handle instead of a plastic gear (which melted when it caught fire).

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

It sounds like Hitachi could have done a much better job of designing their TS. Having a saw catch fire is pretty disquieting.

Dalec

so, tell us what you really think Michael.

this was a great review.

Has me wondering why you had a fire?

Was it a hot chip from the cutting process, or electrical?

I shop vacuumed up a hot ember cleaning around the wood stove once. When I smelled that something was wrong, it had started to smolder in the dust inside. As close as I have come to losing my dream.

loved this one,
Mark

-- Mark DeCou - Kansas Flint Hill's Artisan

Mark,
The design of this table saw is as follows:
The top section is made of sheet metal and it folds in right where the body bolts to the legs. Because the port is very near the front it doesn’t suck the sawdust out of the back. Somehow, while milling some 8/4 oak, the blade got over heated. It then over heated the sawdust piled up all around on top of the lip. I just happened to look back after I shut it off while walking away I noticed embers and smoke. After extinguishing the fire, and the cold sawdust was vacuumed out, it became evident that the plastic gear had melted in the heat.

If they made the body full size and made a better dust port the saw would be 30% better.
If they made the tilt mechanism “Direct-drive” they would improve design, cut costs and improve it 30%
If they made it truly 3HP and call it a cabinet saw, you almost have a perfect saw.

ONLY THEN WOULD I SAY “BUY THIS SAW.”

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I am so….. glad I read this. I have been looking at this saw at Lowes for about a month. The last thing I need is another table saw fire. I am without a table saw now because of a craftsman saw catching on fire. (they no longer make it so no need for a review) I almost bought this saw about five times but kept talking myself out of it. Been waiting to find a used Unisaw so I guess my wait continues.
Thanks so much for the review.

-- Frank Auge---Nichols NY----"My opinion is neither copyrighted nor trademarked, but it is price competitive."

Hitachi is going to HATE me.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I was very close to getting this saw at one point. A Hybrid seemed the way to go for my budget and needs. My wife (great woman) told me to get what I’d be happy with down the road as I had really liked a couple true cabinet saws. Got a Grizzly 1023 and haven’t looked back.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

Sorry, but I have to make a correction for others who, like me, run across this thread while shopping for a new saw. The dust port on the C10FL is supposed to be oriented toward the back of the saw. The reviewer above states that the port is “off-centered toward the front,” which leads me to wonder whether the saw was assembled incorrectly. Granted, the documentation for this saw is poor, but the diagram does show (and common sense would indicate) that the dust collection port should face the rear. In addition, the stand has solid panels on the front and sides, but only a cross brace in the rear. That is obviously for connection of a dust collection hose. The manual does remind you to make sure the front of the stand is aligned with the front of the saw. The dust collection pan could be reversed, but then it would be difficult to attach a hose. I just really have to wonder how this saw was assembled and whether a dust collection hose was attached. This is not a dangerous saw if assembled correctly and used with proper dust collection.

According to the diagram the dust port points away from the operator (whether thats the front or back is immaterial). It was assembled according to the instructions. It’s a bad design, and misleading. It has a lip all around the inside so it’s going to collect dust everywhere. You can go look at the diagram on page 30

Apparently Bubba joined Lumberjocks just to check the review on this saw because it’s the only thing he’s commented on. Must be a Hitachi Emploee trying to redeem this P.O.S.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Yes, I did join after seeing this review. I stated that in my first sentence. I do not work for or represent Hitachi in any way. However, when people are shopping for a new saw they do search for reviews, and I thought this one was unfair. I added my $.o2, as anyone should be free to do.

Any saw is going to have small areas, such as the lip you mention, inside the case where dust collects. That is normal. However, as you pointed out yourself, most of the dust collects at the back of the case. Having the dust port at the front instead of the rear is obviously incorrect. Whether that’s “incorrect enough” to cause the problem you had, neither of us can say for certain. But it’s only fair to point out that the condition was present.

I notice you did not address my question of whether you were using a dust collection system. Even with the port mis-oriented, I’d think a good DC would pull a lot that dust out. To have a fire hot enough to melt that gear, there must have been a lot of sawdust burning in there, not just a little around the lip.

The bottom line is that it’s the reponsibility of the owner/operator to make sure their machines are properly maintained. You should have been looking inside that case long before this happened. I’m sorry, I have absolutely nothing against you. I don’t know anything about you. You may be the finest woodworker on the planet for all I know. But we all make mistakes. All I wanted to do was point out that the dust collection tray was installed incorrectly and it’s unfair to trash the saw because of that.

The saw is not perfect. The manual is very far from perfect. Frankly, it sucks. But that’s not uncommon either. Still, it is a very good saw for the money.

Yes I use a dust collection, and it was hooked up and running. The lip is so large that it cannot help but to collect all around the lip, and the reason I DO NOT recommend this saw is any tool that has design flaws so that when used properly with all the possible safety features, still manages to catch fire because of said design flaws does NOT get a good review. The dust collection port and the lip are only two flaws.
The other one is the plastic gear used to tilt the blade. After the fire the plastic gear melted making it no longer usable unless you turn the shaft by hand. Had they mounted the tilt mechanism on the side with a direct drive handle that problem wouldnt be there. If they put the lips outside there wouldnt be anything to catch the sawdust on.

The whole purpose is to give a review, and I did that. If there were saws out there and someone reads this and saves another $200 they could get a grizzly which has more power and a better design

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I am currently having to make due with a 10” hitachi contractor table saw that is about 3 years old… the arbor? is direct drive into the motor with no adjustments and now wobbles 1/16” or more side to side so i deal with horrid saw marks… the fence system on mine is horrible… will not stay square and will not slide with anything less then a hammer wack. the blade elvevating gears are in such bad shape that the table tilts almost over when you try to raise / lower the blade and ive cleaned it best i can. it wont rip oak over 1”, and on top of that the miter slots are 5/8 groove with staggered t slots about every 6 inches, so after market guages and jigs arent an option. ive even fabricated an oak miter slide to try to make 1 but the stupid staggered t slots catch when it slides.

i dont think i will ever buy another hitachi tool in my lifetime.

-- Aint nothin to it but to do it!

I own several Hitachi tools and in most part they are great tools. I only have an issue with this saw.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Obi, thanks for the review, the spirited debate is fun to read.
I noticed this saw last year when it showed up in the local Lowes. I too, am glad I bought the Ridgid vs this one. I have the Hitachi router and orbital sander, both of which I really like. I needed spare on both items and got them with no problem from Hitachi. I noticed a few weeks ago, one of the woodworking magazines reviewed table saws and this one was mentioned as closer to the “bottom of thie list”. I curious, how was the customer service when you contacted Hitachi about your incident?? BTW, I also recently noticed a very poor recommendation on the new Hitachi sliding chop box. I still have my eyes on one of their cordless drills, I do like their designs on these. Bob

-- Bob A in NJ

I have several Hitachi Products… 2 cordless drills, both of them 12 volt. One a regular cordless drill the other impact. The 12 volt hitachi is the most ass kickin driver I’ve ever used in this size (12 volt) The drill was less impressive. I have 2 Hitachi Routers. 1 is a 1 3/4 hp variable speed router which is good for smaller projects but suffers when using them for raised panels. The other is a 3 1/4 hp variable speed plunge router. Again… ASS-Kickin.

Just so Hitachi doesnt think I hate them or something I recommend the Hitachi 3 1/4 HP Variable Speed plunge router and the 12 volt impact driver… ALL DAY LONG! Great products. And the prices are very good, so buy today and go do it at LOWE’S

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Thanks for sharing your review Obi. I respect it but I too resepctfully take exception with it because I have had the opposite experience.

I can assure everyone out there, the dust collection on mine is the best I’ve ever had and I have owned 7 table saws in 19 years. I bought this saw for my wife because my 16” Oliver is way too big for her to do the tedious things she does on a table saw, and I find myself using this saw alot more than the 1947 Oliver that I love. I’m certainly not comparing the two! But the Hitachi is NOT, from my experience, anywhere near the failure described here. Obi has onviously had a bad experience whether his fault or not, and that is not my point to try and assess or address.

I believe anyone considering this saw, should definately look at other reviews. Just Google the term “C10FL Review” and you’ll get a load of reviews to read from other users and some editors. Most reviews are very positive. Most reviews mention the terrible instructions (I concur wholeheartedly) and the 3HP rubbish, and also how GREAT the dust colleciton is. Notibally exceptional in most users’ view. It’s obvious something is not right about your DC situation Obi I hope you flipped that bottom tray around it’s obviously turned the wrong way.

I can take pictures for you all, there is very little dust inside my cabinet and the saw is hooked, from 35 feet away and 3 elbows, to a shop-shared 2HP DC.

Even though it is a 1.5HP motor it cuts as well as any other 1.5HP saw with a sharp blade, which is mandatory for any cutting tool. I have riped 6/4 Osage Orange with no problem. I didn’t push it as hard as I can like with my Oliver, but I don’t expect the 1.5HP to take it on the chin like the 240v 7.5HP 3 phase can. The fence, once adjusted properly, is smooth and accurate. The stamped steel wings were flared up but I had them adjusted and flat in about 20 minutes. I strengthened the flimsy legs (not avaialble on most saws in this price range) with strips of 1/2” plywood and took all of 10 minutes.

I agree one should not have to make jury-rigged mods on a new saw, and they aren’t totally necessary on this one, but both Grizzly Table saws (both of which I loved especially the 1023 GS slider) needed MUCH more tweekeing from the factory than did this saw.

I have to add that I stole this saw, brand new in the box from Lowe’s for under $240 on the road TTL. So that did affect my ability to smile as I made the minor mods to it that I did. But had I paid $500 for the saw I would have still been happy with it. This, from someone who sets a high bar for his machinery.

I do not have an affinity for one brand over the other really. I have always used the motto Buy the tool, not the wrapper. Overall Hitachi has good engineering, but their other two smaller table saws Lowe’s is now carrying are absolute boat anchors. This saw however, is not one of them.

If you read this review and want to consider this saw, do not make your decision based on Obi’s, or my, review. Read more and you’ll see Obi, while certainly sincere and truthful and honest on conveying HIS experience with this saw, by no means represents the majority who own this good value (in my case GREAT value) saw.

No hard feelings Obi and I hope you don’t take it that way, nor that you have to defend your review once again. I am not attacking it by any meands just taking exception that your experience with this quite decent, dependable saw, is the norm.

Cheers. Kevin.

-- www.powdercreeksawmill.com www.dovetailspline.com

I am considering the Hitachi C10FL table saw as my first non-portable table saw, I have researched a lot of table saws over the years and this one impresses me as a decent saw for the price. I am a newcomer here and have been reading all the opinions on this particular saw. I even went so far as to download the owners manual and parts manual for this saw and after studing these very carefully, I am wondering if Obi assembled the dust collection chut backwards, as the assembly portion of the manual I downloaded shows the chute opening to be assembled to the rear of the cabinet instead of to the front, but I may be interpreting the assembly instructions incorrectly.
Also my download of the owners manual explains in the motor wiring instructions that you can either wire this saw for 115 volt operation or 230 volt operation, of course the 230 volt option will definately mean a more powerful saw !
I haven’t purchased this saw as yet but am very interested in it and some of the features I like about the saw.

I PLACED THE DUST COLLECTION AT THE END OPPOSITE THE OPERATOR. THEY WAY THE INSTRUCTIONS SHOW.

YOU WANT TO BUY THIS SAW? GO AHEAD. FOR A COUPLE HUNDRED MORE YOU CAN GET A REAL CABINET SAW FROM GRIZZLY.

i’VE BEEN IN THE WOODWORKING BUSINESS FOR OVER 30 YEARS.

I’VE GOT CABINETS IN THE SILVER LEGACY CASINO IN RENO, NEVADA.

I’M NOT A NOVICE, THIS IS WHAT I DO FOR A LIVING.

BUY THIS SAW

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I love my contractors saw. If I feel lazy and do not feel like hooking up my dust collection, it all falls to the floor. Cabinet saws are nice, but they have thier cons too.

Nothing like a bit of constructive criticism on a review. Good post Obi. I am glad I have a cabinet saw for most things but portability is an issue.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

Portability is such an issue that I just went out into the shop and removed the wheels. Then I took the worlds most worthless p.o.s. dust collection shroud off and now… I can fabricate a proper method to collect the dust.

THANK YOU ALL FOR INSPIRING ME TO TEAR THE USELESS CRAP OFF THIS MACHINE

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

First of all not all of us have the unlimited amount of funds that others do, so we have to look at and consider cost above all, I for one cannot afford to pay $700.00 to thousands of dollars for an expensive cabinet saw for my home shop, I am basically a woodworking hobbiest and do-it-yourselfer. I am going to take your advice and buy the C10FL and judge for myself, also I’m pretty sure that I can fix the so called dust collection problem and tilt gear problem fairly quickly and easily and at little extra cost to me.
Oh, and just a little insight, even those who think they know everything there is to know, may just be kidding themselves regardless of their experience, etc.
I can certainly tell by your last comment that you have more money than commen sense !
Good luck with trying to prove everyone who disagrees with you as being wrong or know-nothings.
Their are certainly a lot of others on other forums who disagree with you on the virture of this saw !

tell us how you really feel.

-- making sawdust....

O.K. MAYBE I WAS A LITTLE UNFAIR. IT’S PROBABLY BETTER THAN ALL OF THE OTHER TABLE SAWS IN ITS PRICE RANGE, BUT I DON’T KNOW ABOUT THEM, I BOUGHT THIS ONE. I USE IT EVERY DAY. IT HAS DESIGN FLAWS THAT ONLY SOMEONE WHO USES IT EVERY DAY WOULD NOTICE. ALL I’M SAYING IS IF YOU USE YOUR TABLE SAW EVERY DAY, IT WOULD BE WORTH THE EXTRA $200.00 AND BUY THE GRIZZLY INSTEAD OF SPENDING $500.00 ON THIS ONLY TO FIND THAT IT HAS FLAWS IN THE DESIGN.

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

lol go obi !! ive not written any reviews for no particular reason but after reading through this im not sure ill bother . i thought a review was to relate ones personal experience ( good or bad ) with a particular tool . and collectively we find out if a tool has a problem or if maybe one person got a lemon or whatever . i dont think anyones personal experience needs to be rebutted unless youve shared that experience . so if these guys havent been in your shop useing your saw , i agree write your own review and relate your own experience . thats what makes the review system work ! sorry didnt mean to rant .

THIS REVIEW IS ON PAGE ONE OF THE GOOGLE SEARCH

HALLELUJAH, I’M FAMOUS!!!!

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

My initial thoughts when I read these replies were “Wow Obi! CAPS, Bold, CAPS AND BOLD, the whole enchilada! I thought I had included enough discalimers to make it clear I was not attacking your review, just giving my own. Maybe you are just worn out on this thread (don’t blame you).”

But then I read mrtrim’s post:

Quote by mrtrim: i dont think anyones personal experience needs to be rebutted unless youve shared that experience . so if these guys havent been in your shop useing your saw , i agree write your own review and relate your own experience . thats what makes the review system work ! sorry didnt mean to rant .

I agree mrtrim thanks for making that observation and bringing me to my senses. I did not foresee the ill will I have/may have caused and I aplogize to you Obi. I assure you my intentions were noble and not argumentitive, but we all know how relevant intentions are in the end.

I will not in the future post a contradictory review in someone’s review. It was bad manners and bad judgement. I can see now that it can come across as implying the OP is somehow “incorrect”, no mater how many disclaimer’s one uses as a pretext.

Sorry fellas. Won’t happen again.

-- www.powdercreeksawmill.com www.dovetailspline.com

When I first opened a cabinet shop (at a friend’s insistance) I told him I can’t because I don’t have … the entire list of reasons as to why I couldn’t due to lack of tools. He said “O.K.” and we proceeded to look into the best tools for the cheapest price.

This saw was the first item purchased and that was based on 3 things
1) Limited Funds
2) Manufacturer’s Specs
3) I didn’t know about Grizzly at the time

I also purchased a dust collection system from Lowe’s and I read every manual before i set the things up because every tool in the shop that CAN kill the user if used improperly.

I knew that the dust collection port was installed properly but I was not aware of the collection of dust at the user side of the saw due to the enormous lip inside.

As far as the review goes this is not opinion or hearsay this is actual fact.

It was the oldone that angered me, saying:
“I am wondering if Obi assembled the dust collection chut backwards”
“I can certainly tell by your last comment that you have more money than commen sense !”

Apperantly this “Know-it-all” signed up and logged on just to give me a bad time, because his only two comments have been to bad mouth my review…

And I’m still getting famous

And it’s spelled ”COMMON” sense

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I know what it feels like to discover a tool is lacking in performance when you had high, average, or even no expectations. Ain’t good.

-- www.powdercreeksawmill.com www.dovetailspline.com

Wow, with this kind of attention, maybe I should write more reviews on all the tools I have that I don’t like.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Obi- First of all I did not log on to this site to anger anyone, only to get some advice on the C10FL table saw, since it is probably the only saw that I will be able to afford and available without having to pay additional shipping charges.
Just to give you, the expert a little insight into what I have been using as a table saw for the past ten years is a SKIL, 10 inch bench-top table saw that I constructed a T square type rip-fence for, as the factory fence was a flimsy, thin aluminum thing. Now I would like to up-grade to something better, IN A PRICE RANGE THAT I CAN AFFORD and since I have managed to construct several pieces, such as a large modular entertainment center, china hutch, computer armoire, etc., using the Skil, I believe I can do as well or better with the C10FL, even if you don’t like it. All of my tools are mostly bottom of the line Skil products, but I believe I have done quite well with them.
And thank you for correcting my misspelling of the word COMMON sense, since it was a key stroke error and not a spelling error, but it’s nice to see that you are also a certified spelling and grammer teacher as well as a saw expert ! In case you haven’t noticed, you have now managed to make me mad as hell and I will no longer give you the attention that you seem to crave so much.

Buy the saw. It’s not a bad saw, I just wouldn’t recommend it as a cabinet saw for someone that uses their saw every day to make a living.

Upgrade the blad to a Freud 80 tooth, buy extra belts from Ace Hardware and be aware of the sawdust buildup inside the saw.

I’d recommend not installing the plastic shroud dust collector, but modify the base to let it fall to the floor and inclose the base with anything and attach your dust collection to the modified base.

And I apolgize for slinging dirt.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I discovered this site by doing a search on this particular saw, so it proves the “silver lining” theory is still alive and well. Great site! I had already read several reviews on it and pretty much decided to get one. As one of the posters above said, in the reviews I read also, there were a couple of mentions about the above-average dust collection.

After reading this “review” I am sure I am going to get one based on the comments of some of the more sane individuals who tried to offer a little balance. Anyone with an ego a mile has no credibility since they can’t help but put themselves at the apex of everything they say and do. An unbiased review from Mr. Obi is impossible, because he sees the saw as having “let him down”, or of course having “victimized” him, and must exact his revenge on the inanimate object AND the manufacturer.

It is but one of a myriad components, of a very complex condition known as narcissism. In this instance we can say it prevents the inflicted person from viewing or saying anything in an unbiased manner. Hence a “review” which goes out of it’s way to demonize an object in lieu of simply listing what he perceives as the inadequate attributes of the design and engineering of the machine.

Obi, being a slave to his condition, doesn’t just “warn” readers about what he sees as the weaknesses but he ORDERS YOU NOT TO BUY THIS SAW! DO NOT BUY THIS SAW! DO NOT BUY THIS SAW!! etc. because you are too stupid to make up your own mind based on simple facts. Narcissists have an extreme “Superiority Complex” and do not believe anyone can make simple decisions, based on elementary deduction.

this is also why he needs to use CAPITALS INCESSANTLY when wants to yell at you and “put you in your place”. How dar you attempt further discussion on an issue which has been decided by Almighty Obi? And how dare anyone even consider he could have installed the dust collection part incorrectly (which is a virtual given)?

” . . . In case you haven’t noticed, you have now managed to make me mad as hell and I will longer give you the attention that you seem to crave so much.”

Sorry to inform you oldone, a narcissist is going to find attention somewhere, somehow.

And btw, MR. GRAMMAR, it’s “blade” and not “blad”, “enclose” not “inclose”, and “apologize” not “aplogize”. But don’t allow your poor usage and spelling prevent you from throwing stones. It’s always best that a glass house be shattered from the inside.

Good day!

So, now I’m insane and stupid. I was. I should have looked a little harder for a better saw.

And since my last post, i redesigned the dust collection. Removed the shroud completely, incased the bottom and attached the dust collection to the modified base. Works great.

I’m amazed. If someone points out design flaws, and another buys the item in spite of the warnings, who then is then is the stupid one?

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

Just a note for those who may have come across this review when searching or contemplating purchasing this saw. The dust collection has been redesigned. The port is now centered and exits downward, vertically. All directions come to the port in a nice, parabolic shape. I just put this saw together last weekend and noted that the collection is different from the display at my local Lowe’s. I had thought I would need a 2” to 3” adapter for my collection hose based upon the display, but this new panel uses 3”.

The motor is still being claimed at 3HP, but is clearly marked as 15A @ 115VAC. Assuming an efficiency in the 85% range, this is close to a 2HP motor. Still good, but certainly not the 3HP monster listed on product literature.

Setup was simple and painless and the saw is running smoothly.

I do have a bit of a beef with the blade guard. I got rid of an early 80’s Craftsman where the guard attached at the rear of the saw with wingnuts. Perhaps this is no longer considered the norm, nor even acceptable, but this guard attaches with hex head bolts directly behind the blade. Removal/reinstallation is a real pain.

All-in-all, the saw isn’t really a bad saw, just had a few design flaws and if they’ve changed the dustcollection port so that the saw dust doesn’t collect on the sides and continue to pile up that was half of my complaint. The only other thing I didnt like was the gear driven angle adjustment.

They should really make the angle adjustment direct drive instead of a plastic gear.

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

I agree on the bevel adjustment note. When you look at the saw internals, the handle would have been at the front of the left side anyway. Putting the knob on the front gains nothing and adds an unnecessary change of direction.

This saw was available with a $100 gift card and 15% off. At just over $400, this is a good saw. Is it a production grade cabinet saw? No, but that’s not really the market it is playing in.

I too bought this saw a couple of years ago. Some things to add is it is a left tilt saw which has left me changing stuff around to use on my saw. My dial dado set and Grizzly tennon sled. I have modified the access door on a hinge and a twist lock. I did this to help removing the build up of dust in many of the corners.

Anybody have any ideas on how to make a good zero clearence insert for this? Funky design and tried with some hardwood, but the edges were to thin and broke.

When I can afford it, I will be replacing this saw with something better.

Hitachi makes a great product (I too have two routers, cordless impact drill and several other hand tools) they just failed to meet my expectations on this one.

Just my two cents. -Dave

madbaird brings up a pretty big negative if you ask me. Does it have a bad throat design? My old little saw had a poor design making zero clearance next to impossible, bad bad bad.

Personally I sit and wait until I can find the oldest tool I can find and buy that one, never been let down!

I just bought this saw ($499 – 15%(Promo) – 10% (coupon) -$100 (gift card thru MIR), and I love it. This is my second table saw, and I am far from a professional woodworker (that is why I bought a $500 TS ;), and not a $1000+ Jet table saw). I have used it with pine and cedar in the month that I have had it. It cut great through both, even when using the dado blade. This saw is not perfect, but it is a lot better than the others in the same price range. Here are the pros, and cons (and no I don’t work for hitachi… lol)

Cons
The Manual sucks (period). But seriously the manual takes all the fun out of the experience anyways… :)
The legs are flimsy… I bought $20 worth of 1/8” angle iron and some bolts from lowes to fix this… (hasn’t been a big enough deal to fix yet)
The motor is not really 3HP all the time, as stated before that is peak… move on…
The Blade Adjustment Lock is not the greatest, even if you “Lock” the angle and depth, you can can still move the dials with your hands and a little bit of force…

Pros
For the weekender this saw has a great fence system out of the box once setup…
Dust collection works fantastic on this saw, and even better with a dust collecter (I have a delta that works great)
The saw is really quiet…. just a high whisper…
The saw has wheels standard, no mobile base accessories kit to buy…
Most of the parts are cast iron (except for the sheet metal base)
The on/off switch is also a bump switch that you can turn off with your knee…
It has a nice holder on the side for the fence system… not a biggie, but still shows that thought was put in…

All in all, if you can assemble things without having to follow the directions religiously, and don’t mind spending $20 (or less) to reinforce the legs, it’s a great table saw! I bought this after seeing many positive reviews, and using the hitachi C12LSH mitre saw that I have owned for over 2 years now. I have been very happy with these two hitachi products, however I have looked at other brands for other types of tools, such as dewault, bostitch, porter cable, delta, craftsmen, kreg, etc.

Are the trunions attached to the cabinet or to the table top?

there are no trunions …

-- http://ye-olde-cabinet-shoppe.com/

How is the blade assembly attached to the saw then ? How easy is it to align the blade parralel to the miter ?

I have a craftsman contractor saw and its a pain. Its attached to the top and you have to loosen screws and wack the assembly with a mallet to get it aligned in contrast to cabinet saws where you have the trunions attached to the cabinet making alignment a simple matter of loosening the table bolts and aligning it to the blade.

Some hybrid saws apparently have this feature too. This saw is not one of them then?

There are no trunions that I know of… I have not taken my saw that far apart, but blade is square to the top, and fence system…

You might take a look at the manual… on page 29…

http://www.hitachipowertools.com/product/files/saws/table_saws/C10FL_OM.pdf

Hope that helps you out…

I bought this TS about 8 months ago and have had nothing but problems. It spent about 5 weeks at a service center due to a terrible rattle and shaking while running and as it came to a stop. Even after the servicing it still is not the whisper running saw I expected. Now I have noticed that the blade is not parallel to the miter guage slot. It is between 1/16 and 3/32 difference between the front of the blade and the back of the blade in reference to the guage slot. Enough of a difference to recut the work piece as it passes the back side of the blade when cutting with the fence.

This brings me to my next question: Has anyone had this sort of problem with this saw or does anyone know how to adjust the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot?

I dont mind getting inside the blade assembly as long as I know what to do but the manual has nothing concerning the adjustment to the blade with relation to the mitre slot.

Thanks for any advice.

jnam,

The blade assembly can be adjusted if it is not parallel to the miter slot by removing the panel opposite the woodworker if he were operating the saw (6 Phillips head screws). After removing the panel, you will have access to the inner workings of the saw. There are 4 hex head bolts (8mm) that bolt the blade assembly to the underside of the table. Mine were pretty snug, so I had to use a ratchet with a 8mm hex socket to loosen them. I thought there was enough play with just loosening the 2 bolts closest to the opening, but I ended up having to loosen all 4. To exert enough sideways force while tightening, I used a clamp to keep the blade assembly square while re-tightening the bolts.

-- Jeff, North Carolina