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Review by lots2learn posted 1180 days ago 8917 views 1 time favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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After reading some positive reviews about this tablesaw I finally decided to pull the trigger only to find some unfavorable reviews after. Hopefully my review helps others make a decision either way.
My previous tablesaw is an old Craftsman built in 1971. It’s like an old hybrid saw and well built but lacked dust collection and a splitter or riving knife. Safety is a big concern and this is a positive step until I can purchase a Sawstop cabinet saw.
The package arrived in good shape only 4 days after my order. I love the quick turn around. The installation was pretty straight forward with good instructions. My first impression was that the trunions did seem more lightweight then my previous saw but everything moved smoothly and appeared sturdy. There were some parts that appeared to be skimped on but I don’t think they will affect the saws performance but time will tell if the settings hold well over time. The saw runs very smoothly and quietly. I lack 220V so I converted to 110v. The change was easy. I just bought a cord from the local hardware store and followed the instructions. The inability to lock the fence settings with a lock nut or something, which others have mentioned in earlier reviews, is a concern but I have yet to try the plastic part fix others have recommended.
After reading various reviews I was inspired to use a veritas level, feeler gauges, created a couple jigs for my dial indicator and off I went. Following are my measurements:
Table top flatness—.004 variance with a dip around the blade opening
runout on arbor itself—less than .001
Miter slot to blade alignment— .0025, adjust to less than .001
Miter slot to fence alignment— adjusted to .005, there is some wavyness on the fence.
fence deflection—.006, used what I thought was a realistic amount of pressure
measured from the center the blade did move out .006 from 2.5” above the table (had stabilizer on blade and any higher and it interferes with the cut) to as low as I could measure.
Keep in mind I am measuring off of my forest woodworker blade and there is room for human error, but I think these variations are acceptable. If you guys think otherwise please feel free to share your opinions.
Overall I am happy so far.

-- http://www.bolanoswoodworks.com; http://www.facebook.com/bolanoswoodworks




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lots2learn

31 posts in 1842 days



3 comments so far

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knotscott

5428 posts in 2009 days


#1 posted 1180 days ago

Glad to hear it worked out well for you. The G0715P seems to have all the makings of a good saw. Your setup and blade selection sound fine to me. Odds are good that you don’t need the stabilizer, but since you’ve got it, there’s no harm done except for the loss if cutting height. You might be able to shim the fence faces flat, or if you’ve got a jointer you might be able to actually flatten them. Thanks for posting about it.

Good luck!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Chipy

374 posts in 1227 days


#2 posted 1180 days ago

I herd about these fence issues.I saw a review on this saw it might have been right here o LJ’s that said they had taken the fence facing right off and replaced it with plywood.I think knotscott’s idea is a good one give the facings a 1/32 skim in the jointer.I am not sure of melting or curling of this material. According to the spec sheet on Grizzly’s site the fence is a HDPE plastic. I found this info below on the web hope it helps.I am going to purchase the Grizzly GO691 table saw(witch has the same fence) so i will be digging into this issue I will let you know what else I come up with.Chipy AKA Scott

Planing

Surface and panel planers used in woodworking are also suitable for materials such as HDPE. The surface quality largely depends on the feed speed, cutting speed, clearance and rake angle as well as the state of the cutters. The following guidelines should be met:

Clearance: 15-30°
Rake angle: 15-20°
Cutting speed: 3,000m/min
Feed: 0.1-0.3mm/tooth

Milling

When milling, particular care should be taken to keep the machined cross-section as large as possible in order to reduce heat generation. The cutting depth and feed speed also need to be large, with a lower cutting speed producing better results.

Fast woodworking machines with fairly high feed rates and rpm, as well as universal milling machines, have been successfully used to mill this plastic material.

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RIbuilder

3 posts in 1006 days


#3 posted 1006 days ago

Hey, new to the forum! I narrowed my new table saw purchase to this model, thanks in part to all of the reviews on this forum. I was curious as to how much clearance there is in the very base of the saw. I know from the PDF exploded view there is a plate in the bottom of the cabinet, but how far does it sit from the ground? I am planning on installing casters inside the base of the saw, but not directly to the base plate of course. I want to use angle iron to install the casters in each corner, similar to some Powermatic models. I just want to know how much clearance I have to work with, and what size casters I should use. I want the saw to sit an inch and a half off of the ground. Thanks!

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