|Review by RandyMorter||posted 03-20-2011 06:40 AM||6092 views||1 time favorited||29 comments|
I didn’t do any actual woodworking today, but I did do the next best thing – I got a new (to me) tool and worked on it!
I bought a used Craftsman 221240 for $200 last week and it was delivered today, 3/19/2010. I paid to have it moved since it weighs about 400 pounds and I didn’t have an easy way to move it myself. Otherwise, my plan was to take it apart and move it that way. Now I almost wish I’d done that since I just about took it all apart anyway after it was delivered.
I’m not going to discuss the merits of the operation (yet) since I haven’t used it to cut anything yet.
The two cast iron extension wings are only attached with 4 bolts each. The Beisemeyer fence and extension table have a few more bolts / screws but it wasn’t hard to remove it either. If I’d taken those off at the sellers home I could have moved the saw in my pickup. I just didn’t know how easy it would be before paying to have it moved. Oh well, it’s done now and I’m happy I’ve got it!
The seller has had the table about 4 years. She was getting rid of it in large part due to a divorce.
The extensions all had some adjusting to do so I ended up removing some of the fence and adjusting the extensions. The cast iron extensions both have a dip in the middle, between the front and back of the table, maybe 1/32 or less (I didn’t measure it). I got the front and back of the extensions aligned with the main table but there’s a bit of a drop between the main table and the extensions in the middle. Since I don’t cut much big wood I hope it doesn’t affect me, and I’m glad it’s a dip instead of being proud of the table.
Also, the two cast iron extensions droop slightly away from the main table.
The Beisemeyer extension has a problem too. It seems flat but it won’t sit perfectly flat in the rails because the top extends past the frame on the back side, farthest from the blade. When I get the extension aligned with the steel extension, then tighten the outermost bolt, it ends up forcing the table top higher as it squeezes in on the frame. The joint between the frame and top hits right near the top of the rail, which is rounded, and the table ends up riding up when the rail bolt is tightened. I think this can be corrected by using a flush mount router bit with the frame as the guide and shaving the extension top to be the same dimension as the frame.
Once I got the tables/extensions aligned the best I could, I cleaned out the zero clearance plate adjustment screws and 0 and 45 degree stop screws. I oiled all the screws and aligned the stops. The zero clearance plate will probably have to be replaced, and I plan to try to make one. This one has a good dip in the middle, from front to back (is that normal?). I had to settle on adjusting it – I think all four corners are at slightly different heights in order to prevent rocking and to get it as level over all as I could.
I brushed off the dust from inside, lubed the gears, lubed the cranks from outside.
After that I cleaned all the working surfaces 3 times with mineral spirits. I had to use a bit of green weenies on the top to remove some rust. I didn’t get it all but it’s good enough. Then I waxed the same surfaces 3 times with Johnson’s paste wax. It’s nice and slick! I also cleaned & waxed the miter and grooves and moving fence parts.
I got the fence back together and installed. It wouldn’t lock (the seller told me about this and she never liked the Beisemeyer because of it!). After reading about it online, there’s a pad that goes on the locking lever that the cam presses against. It is missing. I temporarily hot glued a piece of soft plastic and it clamps fine – I’ll get the pad ordered soon (but first I’m going to talk the Beisemeyer folks – they’ve got an office here in the Phoenix area and I’m hoping I can get the pad directly from there!).
I cleaned up the rest of the miter – quite a contraption! It’s got a clamp and a stop. The miter has adjustable stops on it too but I haven’t adjusted them yet.
Except for the table not being perfectly flat, this thing seems built really well and has held up well. The seller used it some but not heavily and it looks good. There are a few things that bug me but they’re not because it’s used, but because of the manufacturing (I can’t adjust the blade angle guage enough to get the needle on zero and other little nit picky things). I think the fence will be wonderful (even with my temporary fix the far end can’t be budged and it locks exactly parallel to the miter slot after slight adjusting).
I can’t wait to start using it!
First, I made a few cuts with the saw over the weekend and I really like how solid it feels. I had the splitter mounted, and the rear support is bent. It works okay as a splitter and is aligned okay but it causes a slight binding of the work piece to the fence. I need to figure out how to straighten it out, or replace it, or just don’t use it.
I got a bit of a rough cut which I’m wondering if it’s attributable to arbor run out that I’ve received some comments about. Or, if it could be due to the slight binding due to the splitter. I’ll look into it some more and appreciate the emails I’ve been sent about how to set up the saw.
Second, I contacted Biesemeyer about the issue regarding the fence not locking down. I spoke to Jeff and he is sending me a pad for the cam foot assembly – free, no shipping, nothing! That is service! I didn’t even buy the fence new and they’re still taking care of their end users! If I ever replace this saw I think I’ll always use a Biesemeyer fence!
I finally got my Shop Fox mini Mobile Base and got the saw on it. I like it! Now I can move the saw around as needed. I’ve also added a 4” to 2-2/1” converter for the dust collection which will be nice.
I’ve also been using the saw more, and every time I do I really enjoy it. I’ve started getting it really nice and square and it’s such a pleasure to have a tool that does what you want.
Following some advice I’d received regarding this saw, I purchased a Grizzly G9849 Magnetic Base/Dial Indicator Combo to test the blade, arbor, and flange run out. After struggling to figure out how to mount the dial indicator in order to measure the arbor and flange, I was able to test things.
This dial indicator unit is the first one I’ve owned and the only one I’ve used for this purpose. Watching a few youtube videos showed me that just about everyone else does the same thing with this sort of dial – you have to come in to the arbor or flange at a bit of an angle.
I’m no genius but I know that due to the angle the actual reading won’t be accurate.
That said, both my arbor and flange run out registered about .0005 deflection max (half a thousandth). I don’t know the exact angle the indicator was at, but the actual horizontal deflection would be less than the deflection measured at an angle, so I’m pretty happy with the measurements!
-- Randy Morter, Phoenix, AZ