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Triton Upgrades Their Above Table Micro-Adjuster Worm Gear

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Review by HorizontalMike posted 03-08-2011 02:42 AM 9370 views 6 times favorited 25 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Triton Upgrades Their Above Table Micro-Adjuster Worm Gear Triton Upgrades Their Above Table Micro-Adjuster Worm Gear Triton Upgrades Their Above Table Micro-Adjuster Worm Gear Click the pictures to enlarge them

I have had my Triton 3 1/4hp router since last June 2010 and did not get to use it much until the last couple of months. I mounted this router on my TS extension and drilled the appropriate hole in the cast iron router extension and was good to go. The lifting mechanism worked well at first and then began to slip and eventually failed to lift, though adjustments could still be made when lowering via the above-table micro-adjuster.

I called HTC-Triton (HTC are the new owners) in Michigan and they knew right away what the problem was and sent out a new metal worm gear (gratis, free, no $$, etc.) to replace the failing original plastic worm. They also sent me an email with a graphic PowerPoint set of instructions for replacing the worm (too late for me as I dove right into it and had it done before finding the email). According to HTC, all routers produced after ABOUT May of last year (2010) have this NEW metal worm gear in the micro-adjuster. Mine was apparently one of the last with the older plastic worm that had the tendency to fail when used under the table. They are replacing them as they come in and are VERY friendly about helping customers fix this issue.

Running the router through its paces, the lift is much more solid and will lock tightly in the upper position well after it locks the collet for removal of bits. The locking of the collet is one of this router’s best features for changing bits above the table. 5-stars here.

As mentioned in an earlier review of this router, the poster mentioned that the 1/4 in. collet insert failed to lock down and climbed out of the collet while running. I have had this occur just once and immediately understood what had happened. I had overheated the bit through overuse without adjusting for this overheating. Once I paced my work and gave the running bit/collet time to cool between pieces (even just a few seconds) I no longer experienced any problems with the 1/4 in. collet insert coming loose. I am convinced this type of event is operator induced and preventable, IMO.

Bottom line, this is the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to a big powerful router for router table use with above-the-table micro-adjusting lift capabilities. Additional images here.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."




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HorizontalMike

6960 posts in 1638 days



25 comments so far

View yellowtruck75's profile

yellowtruck75

421 posts in 1791 days


#1 posted 03-08-2011 02:54 AM

Mike
Thanks for the info, I have the same router and have had the same issue for months. I was just about t list my Triton on ebay because it was slipping so much when raising it. I will give them a call and ask about the replacement part.

Do you know what number you called? Any special ext. that I need to use?

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HorizontalMike

6960 posts in 1638 days


#2 posted 03-08-2011 03:02 AM

586-725-2701 from the warranty page #12. I talked with a very nice lady named Theresa and she helped me out and even got a tech on the line when they were needed to understand my explanation of the problem I was having. Nice folks.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

856 posts in 1979 days


#3 posted 03-08-2011 03:03 AM

I know that I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed but is the fence on backwards?

I love that cast iron table top. That is sweet.

Nice review. It’s always great to hear of companies that have great customer service. It makes future purchases that much easier to make.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

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HorizontalMike

6960 posts in 1638 days


#4 posted 03-08-2011 03:08 AM

Chunk,
Nice catch. The picture of the router fence is when I first had it mounted to stay out of the way of my TS fence. In use, I actually use the router fence rotated 90d counter-clockwise so I can still stand in the front of the TS/router and work right to left.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 1979 days


#5 posted 03-08-2011 03:16 AM

Wow! I was wondering. I nipped over to your www site to check out the “other” pictures and I was noticing how the dust collection hoses sort of ran under the table there all nice a neat like. I was a little concerned that you might be standing on the front side of the saw and pushing the work piece in and across the router. That seemed a little “hazardous” to me. I really do like those cast iron router table tops.

Nice setup!

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View Gerry's profile

Gerry

253 posts in 1965 days


#6 posted 03-08-2011 03:36 AM

Mike,
Thanks for the review and information. I just bought a new 3 1/4HP triton, and have yet to mount it in the table. Currently have a 2 1/4 HP version in there( bought it last summer). I’ve not had the problem you describe, but I’ll now look into both routers to be sure they have the metal part installed. BTW, what brand and model is your cast iron table? Was it pre drilled for the router mount? Thanks!

-- -Gerry, Hereford, AZ ” A really good woodworker knows how the hide his / her mistakes.”

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HorizontalMike

6960 posts in 1638 days


#7 posted 03-08-2011 04:47 AM

Gerry,
I have the Grizzly T10222Router Extension attached to my G0690. It did NOT have the micro-adjuster crank hole so I had to haul the cast iron plate over to a friend’s house to borrow his 15” floor model drill press ( I only have an 8” table model and it did not have the throat to drill that far from the edge). Had to step my way through 8-10 drill bits in order to get a big enough hole for the crank. My Drill Doctor sure made things easier since I had just sharpened all my bits in anticipation of this task. 8-) The underside of the extension has four sliding L-brackets that grab the base plate and holds it in place. Very easy to mount, BTW.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View thiel's profile

thiel

359 posts in 2016 days


#8 posted 03-08-2011 07:10 AM

Got mine too. For those needing a little guidance on replacing the part, check out this fantastic tutorial:

http://www.raygirling.com/dismmof1.htm

-- Laziness minus Apathy equals Efficiency

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6960 posts in 1638 days


#9 posted 03-08-2011 02:53 PM

FYI, for those needing/watching the tutorial—- The first tutorial is for the 2 1/4hp model (it is different than the 3 1/4hp model). If you need the tutorial for the larger 3 1/4hp model TRA001 or TRC001 (A=American, C=Canadian) then SCROLL DOWN TO BOTTOM of page and click on the TRA001 link. BTW, the tutorial only shows the earlier plastic worm gear.

ALSO, once installed the metal worm gear causes the T-Crank end to stick out of the unit approximately 3/8” farther and that is a good thing. The unit used to bottom out just beyond the reach of the crank handle, but now the crank handle still engages even when bottomed out.

Thanks thiel, I forgot to add the link in the original review.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2409 posts in 2162 days


#10 posted 03-11-2011 02:41 AM

I did a review of this last year and have updated the review of getting the part and installing it.

If you used the router with the old plastic gear and forced the unit to move up in the table over time before you did the repair you might notice that the fine micro adjuster (black cap at the end of the work gear you replaced might have a worn hex fitting inside of it. This will also cause problems. Mine was damaged only during my trying to force the old gear to work. Triton is sending me one. It only took a phone call. They are great. And this router doesn’t even sound like it’s slowing down even when I take much to big a bite into hardwood. I love it.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View chrisc's profile

chrisc

19 posts in 2411 days


#11 posted 03-22-2011 08:23 PM

Hi Mike,

I had the same problem and the same experience as you. One question: did the instructions you received suggest that you grease the new, metal worm gear? I used a different set, possibly, and did not grease mine. It seems to be tougher to turn now.

Thanks,

Chris

-- Chris

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Toolz

1003 posts in 2467 days


#12 posted 04-19-2013 04:25 PM

The company referenced above is no longer in business. I called the number Mike gave and the receptionist used to work for them and referred me to: Avail Distribution 1-855-227-3478. Ask the reception to connect you with someone to talk about Triton routers. I was transferred to Todd, explained my problem and he is sending me a new metal worm gear for my 2 1/4 Triton router gratis. He also said he will e-mail detailed instructions to make the switch from old to new worm gear. Nice folks at that company and very customer service oriented!
Larry

-- Larry "Work like a Captain but Play like a Pirate!"

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Toolz

1003 posts in 2467 days


#13 posted 04-19-2013 04:51 PM

I just got the e-mail from Todd and he is from Kreg Tool Company. No wonder customer service was so great!!!
Larry

-- Larry "Work like a Captain but Play like a Pirate!"

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Toolz

1003 posts in 2467 days


#14 posted 04-26-2013 03:23 PM

Got the Part in the mail yesterday!! Many Thanks to Todd and Kreg Tool Company.

-- Larry "Work like a Captain but Play like a Pirate!"

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6960 posts in 1638 days


#15 posted 04-26-2013 06:45 PM

Thanks for the update Larry. Good to know who now is dealing/retailing Triton. Kreg is a great company.

Hopefully most/all of the old plastic gear models have run their course and this thread will be history.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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