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Veritas Jointer Plane

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Review by ChunkyC posted 02-10-2011 03:20 AM 5776 views 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Veritas Jointer Plane No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them


(you can click the picture to go to Lee-Valley’s web site and read more if you so desire.)

With Veritas I expect a good quality, mid-range tool and that’s exactly what I got. Like a kid at Christmas, I had to take a few swipes with it last night right out of the box. It did ok out of the box. Tonight I honed the blade and started getting her setup.

The blade, the O1 version, was not as flat as I would have expected so I had to spend a good amount of time getting the back flat. Once that was done, honing the edge was straight forward and a lot faster than I had expected. I did get the O1 blade which is a little softer than the A2 version which means more trips to the sharpening station for touch ups, but the touch ups goes faster.

The sole was flat so I left it alone.

I’m not totally sold on the set screws on the side for the blades yet. I suspect that I will come to appreciate them. Their purpose is to hold the blade in place so that it doesn’t slip side-to-side. Not sure if that’s even that much of an issue, but they’re there so I’m using them.

The adjustment mechanism is smooth as silk and is very easy to adjust. The plane comes with an adjustable mouth too. The adjustable mouth did require a little cleaning to get it to operate smoothly but I didn’t have to file anything to get a good fit so, well done.

The lever cap was in excellent shape. I did strop the edge just so that I get a good seat with the blade. I suppose that you can forgo this step.

I did get the optional fence. For my level of expertise, a fence is a must! I was surprised when I got it as I was expecting a fence that attached with rare earth magnets. I watched Matt’s Podcast and he has one that attaches with simple magnets. The fence is held in place with two brass thumb screws. So attaching and removing is a little more involved. The fence comes with a set screw so that you can adjust it to 90° to the sole. (I haven’t done so yet.) The screw moves quite easily so I’m curious as to how it keeps its setting after putting it on and off a few times. I can always get it set and add a drop of thread lock to it if need be.

The one thing that I don’t like about the plane and that’s the tote. It’s the first thing that I grabbed when I finally got it out of all of that packaging and I instantly knew that it didn’t fit my hand. It just didn’t feel “good” when I held her. And after using it a little, my hand was complaining. I’m not going to take anything thing away from the plane for this. This, to me, is one of the personal things and everyone will have different opinion about it so make up your mind if you like the tote.

Because it’s a low angle plane, it’s going to work better in softer woods and woods with straight grains. So I had a scrap of Cedar that I took a couple of passes and OH MAN! I’ve never had a edge come out so smooth, even with my #4 smoother or card scraper. Cut effortlessly!

Next I took a couple passes on some walnut. We all know how walnut has grain switching back on you. The jointer got through it but with a little more effort. There was some tear out where the grain switched directions. Lee-Valley sells irons with larger angles for using on woods like walnut.

All-in-all a very nice piece of equipment. I’m glad that I got for sure. I will be ordering a different blade sometime in the future for working with harder woods like walnut.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135




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ChunkyC

856 posts in 1910 days



6 comments so far

View eruby's profile

eruby

77 posts in 1430 days


#1 posted 02-10-2011 03:02 PM

Well written review
I have this plane and enjoy using it. I agree with most of what Chunk posted (I have no complaints about tote).
Also “Because it’s a low angle plane, it’s going to work better in softer woods and woods with straight grains.”
This is true if you only use the 25 degree iron that comes with it. I used the 25 degree iron that came with this plane (w/o honing) to join the edges and face of the maple and cherry boards that I used to make my santa hat router bowl. I did get some tear out on the maple which has little to do with the plane and everything to do with me using the LA iron and not paying attention to grain direction. I bought the 38 degree iron which will hopefully alleviate the tear-out problem. (hey it worked at the veritas booth at the wood working show)

BTW
I also have the fence. you will have to check for square every time you use it, but it helps the hand plane noobs like me get started w/o too much frustration.

-- Eric - Baltimore MD

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dbray45

2503 posts in 1432 days


#2 posted 02-10-2011 04:03 PM

I bought this plane and fence. I disagree!

I polished the blade with an 8000 stone and ran it across a 2” piece of cherry last night, then I ran it across an edge of hard maple (new vise on my work bench). I have been using planes for a quite a while and once this thing is adjusted, I have never had a plane that was as smooth and with minimum effort cutting with a grain or cross grain.

I have tried it a couple of times on cherry end grain and there is a learning curve. I am not there yet but the results have been excellent so far.

One thing I have noted, the finer the cut, the better it works – don’t be aggressive. It is better to make 20 passes efortlessly than 5 aggressively. This thing can make shavings at .002” in cherry, hard maple, oak, and ash.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View ChunkyC's profile

ChunkyC

856 posts in 1910 days


#3 posted 02-10-2011 08:26 PM

CessnaP: You’re absolutely correct. It’s a Bevel Up plane. I don’t add the micro bevels to my planes. Only for the fact that I doen’t seem to get a very good edge when I do try. It comes down to needing more practice. Like everything else, the only way to Carnegie Hall is going through practice.

Deke: When I said mid Level, I was referring to the price point. A Lee-Neilson jointer I think runs about $500 verses the $275 for the Veritas.

David : Not sure which point you disagree with? Sound like you get about the same tear out too and my surface has never been smoother either. I can actually see a reflection in the surface. I’ve never had this before. I have mine to take as thin of a shaving as it will cut. I haven’t put the calipers to it to measure the thickness but I was able to read the newspaper through it. lol I haven’t tried the plane end grain with it. The jointer is a little too big to tackle the end grain on most of my lumber.

This really is a very nice plane and I would certainly replace it with another if I needed to.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

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dbray45

2503 posts in 1432 days


#4 posted 02-10-2011 08:40 PM

I haven’t gotten tear out, thats the point. The darn thing is great. I’m annoyed that there is a longer learning curve to figure out the nuances – but the this thing, with the three blades, works really well – didn’t get the toothed blade.

-- David in Damascus, MD

View Gofor's profile

Gofor

470 posts in 2443 days


#5 posted 02-11-2011 02:54 AM

Thank You for the review.

I have Veritas BU Jack.

Very happy with it, and also had to clean the adjustable mouth. It still gets a little sticky, but I love the simplicity and accuracy if it. (The adjustable mouth on the jack goes all the way to the toe, so is a little different from the jointer IIRC.)

I bought all three blades, just so I could change the blade as needed for the wood. I am currently flattening and edge jointing a pallet of walnut, most of which is the outside slices of trees from which the heart wood was used for flooring, so transition from sap to heartwood, grain reversals, and knots are the order of the day. The 37 degree bevel blade works well even for most aggressive cuts in the walnut. The 50 degree bevel blade pretty much eliminates tear out even if set a bit aggressive. It also worked well for me on quarter sawn white oak, rays and all, which is about the most difficult wood I have worked with.

I bought the A2 blades, which I really like now after seeing how they hold the edge compared to the traditional Stanleys I have, so with the thick blade, am a big fan of the secondary bevel. I had no flattening to do on the back (just polished up with 2000 grit). Another reason I bought the three was the $35 each price, which I thought was outstanding for the quality of blade. I did change the micro bevel on the 25 degree blade to 30 after using it on the white oak, as I had some very fine chipping in the edge, altho that was probably my fault as a new user as much as it was the blade’s.

Go

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

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