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Forrest Woodworker II 10" 48 Tooth Thin Kerf

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Review by agallant posted 1300 days ago 5923 views 0 times favorited 39 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Forrest Woodworker II 10" 48 Tooth Thin Kerf No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

When I bought my saw stop this weekend Woodcraft hooked me up with this blade for only $40. They took the SKU from another blade rang it in and gave me the Forrest Woodworker II 10” 48 Tooth Thin Kerf.

I have been wanting to try one of these out for a while, the first thing I noticed like others is the weight of the blade. It is not pretty but very well constructed. With that said I will get to the point of this review. I don’t think this blade is anything special. I don’t think it cuts any nicer than my Freud blades that I pay $40 for. I like that I have one and it is a great blade but I don’t see what all of the hype is about. If you have been saving for one of these blades I would use the money for some other peace of equipment and stick with the $40 Freud.

-AG




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agallant

429 posts in 1521 days



39 comments so far

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1328 days


#1 posted 1300 days ago

Thanks for this. I almost bought one.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1793 days


#2 posted 1300 days ago

One of my pet peeves about reviews here at LJ is that everybody tends to give 5 stars for everything, which to me doesn’t leave much head-room for truly perfect tools (if such exist).

I don’t own a WWII, but I can’t imagine it working any better than my Freud combo blade…and if both are compatible in performance, then I’d be down-rating the Forrest blade as well…it just wouldn’t represent good value.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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agallant

429 posts in 1521 days


#3 posted 1300 days ago

It is a really well constructed blade. It would probably last longer and take more abuse than other blades but I just don’t think it is this holy grail of saw blades that it has been made out to be.

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Brad_Nailor

2531 posts in 2592 days


#4 posted 1300 days ago

I like both blade companies. Allot of people think Forrest blades are overpriced, but i think you get what you pay for. I have this 40T thin kerf, and a 30T full kerf, and I also have a Freud 80T plywood blade. They all perform well, and the Forrest’s have stayed sharper, while the Freud has been sharpened once..but I use that blade more often.

I have found that once I upgraded to a 3HP Unisaw, I started to have a problem with the thin kerf blade deflecting slightly while cutting maple or walnut over 4/4 in thickness. I use a stiffener plate with the thin kerf blade but it didn’t seem to help in those situations. It doesn’t deflect when I use it for anything thinner than 4/4. I originally bought the thin kerf blade for use on my smaller BOSCH jobsite saw and it worked well on that machine, but i think the combination of the extra power and the thicker harder woods causes it to deflect.

-- http://www.facebook.com/pages/DSO-Designs/297237806954248

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Cosmicsniper

2199 posts in 1793 days


#5 posted 1300 days ago

Good poiint about durability.

Good point also about the full kerf blade, Brad. I really need one for my Unisaw…and since I put the Incra fence on it, I’d like to have a full kerf blade for when I make cuts off the outside of the blade.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View Dan's profile

Dan

3543 posts in 1515 days


#6 posted 1300 days ago

Your review seems to be in line with what most say about this blade. I have both a couple Forrest blades and a few of the cheaper Freud blades, not the pro series ones. I agree that when first using and comparing they both seem to cut with the same performance. However the Forrest blade will hold a sharper edge much longer then the cheaper Freud blades. The big advantage to paying for the Forrest blade is you will have a blade that is not only really sharp but it will remain sharp for a much longer time.

I am really happy with both my Freud and Forrest blades. I think the Forrest blades are best for those who put a ton of cutting hours on their blades.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

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HokieMojo

2098 posts in 2363 days


#7 posted 1300 days ago

An anecdote that may explain the price difference. I’m under the impression that the Forrest has much thicker carbide. If that is the case, you could get many more sharpenings from a single blade. If you were really using the blade a lot, it might pay for itself because it has a longer life. Just a potential explanation. I don’t own a Forrest blade, yet…

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3335 posts in 1448 days


#8 posted 1300 days ago

The Freud industrial blades have thick carbide as well. They run $40-70, and have held up well for me. They may be able to sell the Freud diablo blades for less by using thinner blades. I have had good luck with both.
The reason I don’t like the Forrest Woodworker II, or the Freud Premier Fusion is because they do not have flat teeth and therefore cannot be used for joinery. I like combination blades with a triple chip grind that can cut plywood without splintering, but can also run dados for drawers and cabinet work.
Clean those blades with Simple Green HD (the purple stuff at Home Depot) and whatever blade you use will cun better.
Thanks for the review!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Darell's profile

Darell

421 posts in 2229 days


#9 posted 1300 days ago

I’m also not that impressed with my Forrest WW2 blade. The first one I got had to be sent in for replacement as it cut very rough edges. The replacement is OK but no better than the Freud or for that matter the SawStop blade that came with my SawStop contractor saw. I use the SawStop blade the most as it seems to cut the best.

-- Darell, Norman, Ok.

View SPHinTampa's profile

SPHinTampa

548 posts in 2320 days


#10 posted 1300 days ago

I think a recent comparison of blades in FWW agrees with you … that cut quality of the WW II is similar with Freud’s up end blade ($80).

My experience is different. I have used both types of blades for my tablesaw and the my RAS. I notice a difference in the quality of the cut, particularly when cutting tougher or thicker stock, and the length of time between sharpening.

Just my opinion.

-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2379 days


#11 posted 1300 days ago

I have 5 Forrest blades, WWI and WWII’s, 30T, 40 T, & 48T. I also have a Delta 80T and they all get sent into Forrest for resharpening about twice a year (I use them all alot). The Delta blade will not hold an edge as long as the Forrest blades, and it doesn’t get used as much. I’m setting up a radial arm saw and also plan to buy a chopmaster for it. Forrest claims that you can get about 15 sharpenings before the tips have to be replaced. That’s reasonable mileage. Forrest will also custom grind any kind of tip configuration that you want. I don’t care for the thin kerf blades either, they seem to have too much movement going on. There are a lot of blades out there making the same claims, but for my money, I think the Forrest blades deliver.

View Routerisstillmyname's profile

Routerisstillmyname

698 posts in 2144 days


#12 posted 1300 days ago

I have to agree, just a hype.For the price, sharpens, durability Freud can’t be beat.

-- Router è ancora il mio nome.

View JoelB's profile

JoelB

18 posts in 2008 days


#13 posted 1300 days ago

I have a Ridge Carbide and often wondered if I should have gotten a Forrest. Sounds like I made the right decision when I bought the RC.

View ND2ELK's profile

ND2ELK

13495 posts in 2409 days


#14 posted 1300 days ago

All I use is Forrest blades and Dado head. Great blades. They cost more but last longer than the other blades.

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

View JasonWagner's profile

JasonWagner

523 posts in 1815 days


#15 posted 1300 days ago

I have both the thin kerf and regular kerf WWII. They were both around $80 on Amazon. They are the best blades I have used although I have never tried high end Freud blades. I buy Freud ripping blades or blades to beat up. I just know I can always rely on the WWII for a glue line cut, I can rip a 1/32” strip, and there’s tons of carbide to be sharpened over and over. I do think the dado stack, chopmaster and some other blades are over priced for my needs. But if I did fine furniture dados all the time I would tend to trust Forrest.

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

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