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Bed Hardware

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Review by Tadd posted 12-22-2010 12:42 AM 6010 views 2 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Bed Hardware No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

While building a bed for my wife, I struggled with how to connect the bed rails to the headboard and the footboard. I stumbled on this new product from Rockler.

The connection hardware uses a threaded insert that is screwed into the headboard and footboard. A mating bolt is then screwed into the insert. You have to drill a hole through the rail to another hole drilled perpendicullarly into the rail. A nut and a curved washer tighten the rail to the headboard or footboard.

The hardware did what I wanted. It connected the rail to the headboard/footboard, the hardware is hidden, and the nut can be tightened later if need be. Why the three stars?

First, the directions are not good. I ended up drilling the long hole in the rail to small. It wasn’t until trying to assemble the bed in a dry fit did I realize that the hole is supposed to be big enough to accomodate the nut, which is screwed on the bolt before passing the bolt throught the hole.

Second, the little wrench provided with the hardware is a joke. It is too small and does not drip the nut like you would want. As a result, I cannot get the rail to tighten up totally agains the headboard or footboard.

Finally, I think the nut is aluminum because it got really chewed up. While I do not plan on moving the bed, if the nut gots any worse, taking the bed apart (which is a supposed benefit of this design) may be problematic.

Overall, the system works but could definitely be improved.

-- Tadd, Denver, http://patentcraftsman.com/




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Tadd

35 posts in 1507 days



12 comments so far

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Tadd

35 posts in 1507 days


#1 posted 12-22-2010 12:44 AM

I really should proofread before posting—I sound like an idiot!

-- Tadd, Denver, http://patentcraftsman.com/

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Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1811 days


#2 posted 12-22-2010 01:03 AM

that can´t be so bad when it is writen from the hart
then we are a few more idiots that can understand it…...LOL

thank´s for the rewiew
Dennis

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mathom7

69 posts in 1607 days


#3 posted 12-22-2010 05:53 AM

fish don’t worry about it, I to it all the dine

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beavercut

24 posts in 1749 days


#4 posted 12-22-2010 02:14 PM

Thanks for the review. Did not know a source for that hardware existed.

While I appreciate the skill of people who can write well, many of us cannot – especially myself.

-- Beavercut

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Gator

377 posts in 2372 days


#5 posted 12-23-2010 04:31 AM

Thanks for the review.. I just bougt this set from Rockler.. I will look closely at it before using it, and likely change the nut and ensure I can get a wrench on the nut to tighten it up.
Thanks for the heads up.

Good luck with it..

Gator

-- Master designer of precision sawdust and one of a kind slivers.

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newTim

554 posts in 2303 days


#6 posted 12-23-2010 05:16 AM

Hey! These guys stole my idea. Do the following pictures look familiar? Here's a link to the blog posted right here on LJs back in October 2009.


-- tim hill www.newcalshop.com

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Tadd

35 posts in 1507 days


#7 posted 12-24-2010 03:10 AM

Gator,

A couple of other things. The directions are going to ask for some bizarre drill bit size (that Rockler did not carry—go figure) for the insert. If I remember right, I used a 17mm brad point bit that seemed to work.

Also, when screwing the insert in, I chamferred, or is it reemed out, the edge of the hole. This cut down on the blow out from trying to screw the insert into hard maple and allowed the threads to grip better.

-- Tadd, Denver, http://patentcraftsman.com/

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Dusty56

11665 posts in 2384 days


#8 posted 12-25-2010 05:32 PM

You would think that Rockler would carry the necessary accessories that are called for in their kits that they sell.
I’m sure that part of the tear out you experienced was from not having the correct size drill bit for the threaded insert.
Regarding your “proof reading”....you can go back to your post and edit it at any time : )
Thanks for the review and Happy Holidays !!

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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pintodeluxe

3466 posts in 1510 days


#9 posted 07-09-2013 05:13 AM

I was wondering why they called for a 5/8” through-hole. That explains it, the nut needs to pass through the hole.

I wanted to drill a 3/8” through hole so I could use a dowel centering point to locate the hole for the threaded insert. Can I thread the nut on after the threaded rod is inserted?

McFeely’s also sells a kit like this, maybe I’ll try that one over the Rockler due to the poor quality nut.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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Tadd

35 posts in 1507 days


#10 posted 07-09-2013 01:35 PM

Willie,

I actually did thread the nut on after I inserted the rod through the hole. It works but it is a major pain trying to tighten the nut all the way down the rod (the wrench does not have a large arc to work with and getting a socket or other tool in there is not possible). THe directions actually save you time by getting the nut started or close, placing the washer, then simply tightening a bit.

TAdd

-- Tadd, Denver, http://patentcraftsman.com/

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pintodeluxe

3466 posts in 1510 days


#11 posted 08-26-2013 10:17 PM

Tadd,
Thanks for the info. Would you say you centered the 1-3/8” hole over the end of the 3-1/2” threaded rod?
I got a similar kit from McFeely’s, with no directions. I guess I could drill out a scrap board to see how it lays out.

Thanks again.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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Tadd

35 posts in 1507 days


#12 posted 08-26-2013 10:31 PM

Willie,

It has been awhile since I did the bed. I think the answer to your question is yes, but I would mock it up. The directions I had were worthless.

Tadd

-- Tadd, Denver, http://patentcraftsman.com/

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