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Great Honing Guide

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Review by cut3times posted 1354 days ago 4377 views 1 time favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Great Honing Guide No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

This is from the hand written notes of Richard:

The blade is clamped onto and makes contact with the underside of the two stainless steel location rods, these being the primary location datum. How far the cutting edge projects determines the honing angle. For example clamp up at 5/8” (16mm) and the blade will make an angle of 25 degrees to the sharpening surface. Measurement is taken from the side of the stainless steel rod to the cutting edge. A strip of wood with an accurate shoulder could be easily made to provide standard angles in your own workshop and marked ‘Rough Hone’ at one end and ‘Finish Hone’ at the other.

The hexagonal nut is meant for finger tightening only – not a spanner. The brass bobbin diameters are turned to plus or minus one thousand of an inch and are selectively assembled to matched pairs within one third of a thousand maximum difference. This coupled with the ‘Ertalite’ rollers being turned in pairs means I have done my best to give you an accurate product. An accurately planed piece of wood fixed alongside the stone is useful for extending the working area over which the rollers can operate. Since the early 1980s I have been making a bevel gauge which is a useful extra to use with this guide. Also dovetail markers and new 2002 adjustable bevel, all in brass.

I made a simple registration jig to give me consistent angles every time. Since I only use 25° and 30° for chisels I just made two setup angles.

It was made using scrap walnut, 1/8” brass rod, 1/4-20 brass wood insert, and a 1/4-20 brass knurl knob. I drilled a 1/8” hole through one piece of walnut for the rod to slide through. Then drill a hole perpendicular to the 1/8” hole to hold the wood insert that the knurl knob screws in to clamp the rod when it is set. I used 1/8” because that is the smallest chisel I use.

Then I created two 1/8” wide mortises of 5/8” and 1/2” to create the 25° and 30° registration. Then just slide the rod to the end of the mortise, push walnut piece on the rod until it touches the walnut with the mortise, and clamp the rod using the knurl knob.

Now I set the chisel in the jig and push it to the edge of the jig until the rod touches the steel rod and tighten the hexagonal nut.

No other jig I have (I have every jig ever made :)) will allow me to sharpen a 1/8 inch mortise chisel square.

Here is Richard’s web site.

-- And Still Too Short - "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." John Lennon




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cut3times

116 posts in 1638 days



3 comments so far

View jim C's profile

jim C

1452 posts in 1730 days


#1 posted 1354 days ago

Sweet and simple.
Thanks

-- When I was a boy, I was told "anyone can be President", now I'm beginning to believe it!

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richardkell

7 posts in 364 days


#2 posted 364 days ago

hello, its Aug 2013 and now i have worked out how to make larger rollers that lift my honing guides to another level ….

my honing guide richard kell no.2 now offered as std with large rollers ie http://richardkell.livejournal.com/26030.html

theres also a youtube linked at the bottom of that link.

thanks !!

-- richard kell:toolmaker

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WayneC

12262 posts in 2729 days


#3 posted 364 days ago

Thanks Richard. Looks like a great jig.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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