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Ease of use

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Review by Dave posted 10-05-2010 05:33 AM 2577 views 3 times favorited 25 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Ease of use Ease of use Ease of use Click the pictures to enlarge them

I have been needing another method of sharpening other than by hand. I have been using a 3 and 6 inch grinder for shaping, and Arkansas stone’s for fine tuning. For plane blades, a large piece of glass with assorted grits of wet or dry sandpaper. I have made some jigs for the grinders to get somewhat of a hollow bevel started. And have had some reasonable success with the bevel. As long as I was not dealing with 2 inches or larger. But the stones and my inconsistency of sharpening have been leaving a convex bevel on my chisels. I want a tormec but do not have the funds. [Just replaced the floor in one of my 121 year old bedrooms] So I cruzed down to sears and bought a worksharp 3000. I gave it 5 stars but I would like to give it 4.8. The ease of setup was great. The DVD video was cool to. You know the attention span of a man and a manual. It went through my 6 chisels in no time. And really showed me how not flat the backs were. It also let me know how not square the tips were. The kit I bought came with 2 glass plates and 1 slotted disk. I would have paid a little more for 2 more slotted disks. With the plates you get to set up 4 different grits. With 1 disk you can only set up 1 grit that you can do curved pieces with. They do give you enough abrasive paper. The machine is unbelievably quiet. I have used it on some low end planes and the results have been great. The ease of the work sharp has me looking around my shop for things to sharpen. So I took my fathers old pairing chisel, a very good steal and have managed to get it to where I can use it for a mirror to shave with my cheaper plane blades. The Work sharp does not leave a hollow bevel but a flat bevel. I really don’t have a problem with that. It is also easy to put a 5 degree micro bevel on 3 different angles.
So if my biggest problem is not enough disks and the need to sharpen more than a 2 inch blade. I guess in need to buy some more accessories. Oh one more thing for shaping you can go through the 120 grit paper in a hurry. Buy some of that first.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com




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Dave

11184 posts in 1528 days



25 comments so far

View spaids's profile

spaids

699 posts in 2381 days


#1 posted 10-05-2010 04:29 PM

I have this thing and I love it. I will touch up a blade now when in the past I would have put it off and dealt with the dull blade because of the mess I make with my water stones. I do notice that I get a slightly sharper edge if I also give the blade a quick bump on my buffing wheel on my bench grinder. Its just a regular speed small bench grinder that I took off one wheel and replaced it with a buffing wheel and put some honing compound on it. I just do a second on each side of the blade after I finish with the worksharp and the blade shaves my arm just a little bit smoother. But does that really matter? 5 out of 5 from me.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1883 days


#2 posted 10-05-2010 05:24 PM

I love my 3000 as well. I purchased an extra disc and slotted wheel too so I can always have different grits available. Also, I’m thinking of buying sandpaper in bulk and a jig to cut the cirlces and hole and use 3M spray glue or contact cement. Those little sanding discs are way overpriced.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View rickf16's profile

rickf16

376 posts in 2269 days


#3 posted 10-05-2010 05:49 PM

Having never been into sharpening, I bought a 3000 as my first system. This thing is great! I don’t own any planes…yet, but I did sharpen my chisels. They are a set of Stanleys from Lowes. After I was done, I could dry shave my arm with the 1” chisel. That is scary sharp!

-- Rick

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112316 posts in 2265 days


#4 posted 10-05-2010 05:52 PM

I really like mine too.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4524 posts in 1763 days


#5 posted 10-05-2010 07:25 PM

I also have the 3000. I find I can get my irons and chisels adequately sharp on the 3000 but I can’t get them super sharp. I like to finish them with a few strokes on a couple of water stones (using a guide). I use a 1000 and 6000 grit water stones.

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View depictureboy's profile

depictureboy

420 posts in 2331 days


#6 posted 10-05-2010 08:02 PM

yep…i was able to get this when Sears messed up…i really like it, i need to get another glass disk. I just wish there were more options for sanding disks…I mean i realize its norton sandpaper but I think its a custom size.

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

View TheOldTimer's profile

TheOldTimer

223 posts in 1774 days


#7 posted 10-05-2010 08:05 PM

Thanks for the great revue, I guess I am going to have to pick one of those machines up. I only wish they would come out with an attachment so you can do jointer blades as well as chisels.

-- TheOldTimer,Chandler Arizona

View lanwater's profile

lanwater

3088 posts in 1622 days


#8 posted 10-05-2010 08:46 PM

I also have one of those and love it.

The day I got it, I went and sharpened 2 chisel that I used quite a bit. They came out really sharp.

-- Abbas, Castro Valley, CA

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1883 days


#9 posted 10-05-2010 09:14 PM

Rich, I felt the same, but then I run the leather honing disc and that brings it up to super sharp. I can shave hairs off my arm with no effort or pressure.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View Eric_S's profile

Eric_S

1521 posts in 1883 days


#10 posted 10-05-2010 10:25 PM

Hey Deke, that adjustable slot can be fidgity, it’s not just you. You want it tight, but just tight enough so that you can still slide it up and down yet it wont wiggle from side to side to much. If that doesn’t work, loosen it up a bit and just keep the chisel pushed against the fixed wall of the slot to keep it straight.

I bought the Wide blade attachment as well but still haven’t really used it. Again, it’s not just you. The problem was no matter what, I couldn’t level it with the discs. Even at its lowest setting it still sat higher than the disc. Also, every grit change requires it to be re-leveled to that grits thickness. I bought a washer with a large inner diameter to try and raise the disc a bit to help make it easier to bring the two in level, but the washer wasn’t the correct size so until i get a chance to run back to the store for another washer I’ve just been honing my larger 2 3/8” #7 plane iron with granite and manual scary sharp method for the time being.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

View OttawaP's profile

OttawaP

89 posts in 2414 days


#11 posted 10-05-2010 10:28 PM

Deke, who says a chisel needs to be perfectly square ?? I’d argue that a little bit of skew is not a bad thing at all and may be preferable in many circumstances.
I had a WS for awhile and sold it. Loved it for chisels but found it lacking for wider blades. I think it’s a little much to expect a 6” disk to sharpen a 2.25” wide plane blade. the outer faster rotation vs the inner slower rotation makes it tough to get an nice square edge on a plane blade.
Moved over to a barely used Tormek and haven’t looked back…..

-- Paul

View GaryL's profile

GaryL

1079 posts in 1519 days


#12 posted 10-06-2010 12:35 AM

I also have the W3000. Awesome machine to get a fairly quick sharp edge. I still grind a hollow bevel with my grinder jig when I get a nick or “severely” aka “abused” edge then hone on the Worksharp so I don’t have to work the entire flat, just the edge. I buy PSA 6” paper at an auto supply or body shop supply to save costs on abrasives. Usually can find up to 1000.
Deke,
I believe there is some adjustments that can be made to square up your jig. I don’t recall exactly how, but I’m sure it is in the manual

-- Gary; Marysville, MI...Involve your children in your projects as much as possible, the return is priceless.

View Bryan_M's profile

Bryan_M

45 posts in 1731 days


#13 posted 10-06-2010 02:55 AM

When I got mine it also came with a leather stropping disc. I recommend the leather disc if you don’t have it. Gives your stuff the “final level” of sharpening.

View Dave's profile

Dave

11184 posts in 1528 days


#14 posted 10-06-2010 03:31 AM

Deke There is an adjustment to raise and lower the jig on the right side of the w3000. But to me if you get it level for a one inch blade it seems it a little off for a wider blade. I think that may be the wider the blade the closer to the center you get.
Old timer I have seen a brass jig that holds two joiner blades at opposing angles. Its made for manual sharpening so I don’t see a problem with using it on top of the w3000.
Gary I like the thought of a hollow bevel first then using the w3000. That would be easier on the sandpaper.
And I do believe I will get the leather disk.

Thanks guys I thank you for the input and thoughts everybody

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View MarkwithaK's profile

MarkwithaK

370 posts in 1866 days


#15 posted 10-06-2010 06:50 AM

I bought one of these before I really had anything to sharpen on it. Sears had a pretty obvious screw up on their website and I got mine for less than $20. After the fact I used it to try to save some old dinged/gouged chisels and it worked well beyond my expectations.

-- If at first you don't succeed then maybe skydiving isn't for you.

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