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WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed!

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Review by BigJimAK posted 1453 days ago 4238 views 11 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch
WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed! WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed! WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed! Click the pictures to enlarge them

I recently picked up a WorkSharp 3000 after trying my hand at tuning some bevel-up Veritas 3/16” thick A2 steel plane blades. The instructions say to attach the wide blade guide, leveling it with the sharpening sandpaper. Unfortunately, it won’t go down that far, because the inside of some of the supports squeeze against a raised piece of the machine. Sooo… I got out my Dremel and a carborundum cutting wheel and trimmed them back. I’ve attached a picture showing where I had to grind. It only took a couple of minutes and it was level.

Please note it was the inside of the support, not the “bottom”.

I’d previously called WS and they told me it didn’t have to be level, just co-planar, a cop-out to me. I wanted to use my Veritas honing guide with it and to use the angle setter, I needed level.

All this because some of the blades are 25, some 38 and some 50*. It worked like a champ! I’ve attached a picture showing the reflection of some ribbed rubber matting in the blade. Scary sharp!

-- Jim in Alaska




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BigJimAK

30 posts in 1876 days



17 comments so far

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patron

12947 posts in 1926 days


#1 posted 1453 days ago

i got the work sharp 3000 too .

don’t have the wide table yet ,

but i apreciate knowing that about it ,
save me some frustration someday .

thank you !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Bryan_M

45 posts in 1628 days


#2 posted 1452 days ago

I’ve been putting off getting this attachment because I’ve heard it was a pain to use for plane irons. Your mod makes it look like it might be worth getting now. Thanks!

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Eagle1

2063 posts in 1649 days


#3 posted 1452 days ago

I have the sharp 3000 also. Thanks for the post. I was thinking about getting the attachment.

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

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Eric_S

1521 posts in 1780 days


#4 posted 1452 days ago

Nice fix. I thought of that but instead just bought a 1/2” ID, 1” OD washer to put below the wheel. It’s still annoying to have to level the platform to the wheel since each grit is a different thickness. This only takes a couple of seconds though but still its a pain.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

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Bob N

131 posts in 2512 days


#5 posted 1452 days ago

Nice fix Jim… keep up the good work!

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JoeButler

39 posts in 2313 days


#6 posted 1452 days ago

Well, I got this attachment also. I had the same problem…but my solution is usually to grab a bigger hammer. Which I did, which cracked the aluminum. LOL

Not bad enough that it’s unusable, but I wish I was little more visibly oriented so I can see stuff like this.

Now I know how to properly fix it. Thanks!

-- Joe

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Dusty56

11638 posts in 2273 days


#7 posted 1452 days ago

”it didn’t have to be level, just co-planar” Did you ask them for their definition of co-planar ? Sounds like you were speaking to a real “Einstein” there …LOL…...Nice fix and I thank you for sharing this valuable tip : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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BigJimAK

30 posts in 1876 days


#8 posted 1452 days ago

I must say, that blade in a LA Veritas BU smoother cuts whisper shavings in “rock” maple like butter!! Enough to give ya goosebumps! :D

-- Jim in Alaska

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Eric_S

1521 posts in 1780 days


#9 posted 1451 days ago

Dusty, level and coplanar are not the same. Coplanar means they are in the same plane, but the plane can be be at any angle in any direction. If the plane is 90 degree vertical or 90 degree horizontal, then it is level (and coplanar)

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

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rance

4125 posts in 1745 days


#10 posted 1450 days ago

Yeah, the guy doesn’t know what coplanar is. They don’t have to be the same height, but they should be parallel with each other.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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Dusty56

11638 posts in 2273 days


#11 posted 1450 days ago

Thanks Eric…S , I know the difference , but in this case , you still need the table to be level , ie: in the same plane as the sanding disc , which is what the post is all about….fixing the attachment so that it is level AND coplanar. If the attachment was an eighth inch higher than the disc on one side , then it wouldn’t be coplanar or level , ay ?

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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Eric_S

1521 posts in 1780 days


#12 posted 1449 days ago

Ah yes you are correct, I thought you were just arguing that level and co-planar are the same. Yes I agree they need to be level and co-planar for it to sharpen correctly. Its a great sharpening tool, but the wide blade attachment is a bit of a pain due to different thicknesses of grits. I think I’ll just do my large plane irons by manual scary sharp method on granite slab.

-- - Eric Indianapolis, IN

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BigJimAK

30 posts in 1876 days


#13 posted 1449 days ago

Here’s a follow-up to my original post…

Before telling you where I stand, I’ll tell you where I sit. Sharpening and sharp mean different things to different people. This continuum ranges from those who are happy with “better than butter knife” sharp to purists who get great pleasure and satisfaction from sharpening something sharper than anything’s ever been sharpened before.

As an engineer, I’m closer to the latter than the former but I get my pleasure from using a finely tuned plane and being able to easily cut whisker-thin shavings end-grain or with-grain in hard maple, tigerwood or anything else that I’m working with. For me, it’s how it cuts, not how “perfect” it is. For example, I expect the face to be mirror-polished but a fine scratch on the face doesn’t bother, as long as its no where near the cutting edge. Now, for my experience..

The whole process was completed was performed with the blade clamped in my Veritas honing guide, as shone in my photo #3. Starting with 80 grit and working through 120 grit, by the time I’d finished with the 400 grit it was easily shaving hair from the back of my arm. With further honing on 1000, 3600 and finally 6000 grit, it was sharp enough to cut most (but not all) of the hair on my arm without the blade even touching my skin. When touched to my skin, it cut as close or closer than my razor. Installed in my Veritas BU LA plane, it easily made cuts in hard maple approaching “read through”. In my sample test in maple the surface had no tear-out and was smooth as glass. That would likely be different in sufficiently wild-figured wood but IMO, that’s best addressed by switching to one of my higher-angle blades. When I studied the blade surface closely in bright light I could discern no change in angle due to thickness variations in the sandpaper, though they may exist if sufficient magnification was used. The edge was painless and easy to re-hone (as needed) with this setup. Rather than occasionally sharpening my blade to an extreme level of sharpness, this setup lets me give the blade a fine re-hone quickly before each use.

In synopsis, it’s sharp enough for me; your mileage may vary!!! <g>

-- Jim in Alaska

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KayBee

998 posts in 1831 days


#14 posted 1374 days ago

Got the wide blade attachment a little while ago. Didn’t fit. Did the little bit of grinding and now it sits flush with no problem. Thanks for the info Jim!

-- Karen - a little bit of stupid goes a long way

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StumpyNubs

6070 posts in 1385 days


#15 posted 923 days ago

Thought you may like to see my video of the Upgrades I made to the Work Sharp including one that allows you to use Tormek jigs AND how to use cheap buffing compound instead of sandpaper instead of diamond wheels and compounds:

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

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