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MJ Steel Splitter PRO

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Review by JimDaddyO posted 1384 days ago 2636 views 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
MJ Steel Splitter PRO MJ Steel Splitter PRO No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

As an owner of an older, inheirited saw with no guards this was the best and easiest solution I have come across. The saw had the stock splitter/guard disposed of after my dad’s first use of the saw…it was not good and deserved being tossed. I only have room on my saw for a single steel tab, and not for the kerf keeper behind it. Even at that I had to drill into the iron top to accomodate the tab. This is a reflection of the saw and not the splitter. The instructions seemed a bit confusing at first, but if you just follow them 1 step at a time, they are fairly straight forward. The system has graduated tabs that offset by .003 more with each mark added. This makes it easy to fine tune once installed. A really nice “feather board” effect keeps the piece being cut tight against the fence after the blade. I would have given it 5 stars, but my installation is a bit of an odd ball one where I cannot utilize the full system. If you have a saw with no splitter this is an inexpensive way to make the saw safer, more accurate, and easier to use. I bought the thin kerf model as I am setting it up on a low power saw with a Freud 24 tooth thin kerf ripping blade.

-- I still have all my fingers




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JimDaddyO

284 posts in 1581 days



8 comments so far

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Greg The Cajun Box Sculptor

4743 posts in 1811 days


#1 posted 1384 days ago

I hope the MJ Steel Splitter Pro is better than the original plastic model. I bought one of the plastic models and it broke on the second day. What a piece of crap…Wasted my money.

-- Every step of each project is considered my masterpiece because I want the finished product to reflect the quality of my work. http://www.FineArtBoxes.com

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ars

30 posts in 1407 days


#2 posted 1383 days ago

Despite all the negative reviews, I recently bought and installed the original (plastic) version. This past weekend I ripped about 70 feet of doug fir and a little bit of 3/4 cherry no problems so far. What seems to be the main cause of these things breaking?

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JimDaddyO

284 posts in 1581 days


#3 posted 1383 days ago

I don’t know why the plastic ones break, but mine has the steel inside it, so I hope the problem is remedied and it lasts.

-- I still have all my fingers

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thiel

359 posts in 1794 days


#4 posted 1382 days ago

I just installed this myself (on a Grizzly 1023).... very pleased with it and I like the “micro feather board” effect. True about the instructions—overwhelming at first glance but if you take it step by step its no problem.

-- Laziness minus Apathy equals Efficiency

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Gerry

250 posts in 1743 days


#5 posted 1382 days ago

I’ve had mine since last November. Looks like it’s time to install it and get rid of the blade guard. Have to admit I prefer to use the guard, but with the new dust controlling saw enclosure, it’s no longer an option…...

-- -Gerry, Hereford, AZ ” A really good woodworker knows how the hide his / her mistakes.”

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Twigger

26 posts in 1508 days


#6 posted 1382 days ago

I apologize in advance for the following lengthy dissertation, that may be impossible to understand unless you’ve seen the installation instructions.

I installed one of these, intending to install the dual tab arrangement that gives you the combo effect of splitter and “micro feather board” that Thiel pointed out. I meticulously followed the instructions, and with the use of the installation template, expected to get a perfectly offset alignment as needed for the combo effect, with the two tabs aligned with different sides of the kerf.

But to my suprise, even using the supplied drill big, I couldn’t get the prongs of the tabs to go into the holes. And I tried all of the various tabs supplied with the system. I thought perhaps the supplied drill bit was out of spec. So I tried another one of the same nominal diameter. Still no go. Not even forcing them.

So I now speculate that the hole diameter is expecting some give in the surrounding material, as might be expected with a wooden (or perhaps relatively thin metal?) insert. But there’s no give in the relatively thick phenolic insert that I’m using.

So then I tried, as suggested in the instructions, to ream out the holes a bit more using the supplied drill bit. Of course this takes a lot of careful reaming so that you get a symetrical hole, still vertically aligned, etc. In doing so I found the phenolic material extremely difficult to work with to get additional widening of the holes with vertical alingment of each tab and the offset alignment between the tabs. By the time I got two of the holes wide enough, the tab installed in them was itself skewed from being aligned with one side of the kerf. About this time I declared these things extremely difficult to install, at least in a thick phenolic insert.

BTW, the next bigger drill bit diameter that might have helped in widening the holes would have been metric; and it’s hard to find them for sale in single bits.

So I’ve written off this system as far as installing in phenolic inserts.

My story actually has a relatively happy ending. For the one tab I did install, although the holes are skewed from alignment with one side of the kerf, they are by accident perfectly skewed in that the leading edge of the tab hits perfectly on the outside edge of the kerf and acts as the splitter, and the trailing edge hits perfectly on the inside edge of the kerf and acts as the feather board. I must be living right. :-)

-- When can we go fishing, err woodworking?!

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JimDaddyO

284 posts in 1581 days


#7 posted 1382 days ago

I too can just use the single splitter, as you can see I had to drill into the cast iron to get it in. I understand the frustration with the “reaming” of the holes, I had to do the same. I have to remove the splitter by inserting a screwdriver through the hole to use as a handle. If you look closely, in the shot from above, mine is a bit cockeyed too. Maybe they are supposed to be like that as I get the same feather board from one edge/splitter with the other edge action going on. With an old saw that did not get to me with anything, I still like this as a solution.

-- I still have all my fingers

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ars

30 posts in 1407 days


#8 posted 1381 days ago

To piggyback on “twigger” and “JimDaddyO”, I just swabbed a little wax on the prongs and it made installing and removing the splitter a hell of alot easier.

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