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View BB1's profile

Help with "stuck" clamp

by BB1
posted 09-23-2017 04:36 PM


17 replies so far

View BB1's profile

BB1

1167 posts in 928 days


#1 posted 09-23-2017 04:44 PM

One other question…any suggestions on the best way to remove old glue drips from clamps (other than avoiding or cleaning immediately…two obviously superior options that will, hopefully, be used in the future).

View BlasterStumps's profile

BlasterStumps

797 posts in 520 days


#2 posted 09-23-2017 05:07 PM

can you remove the red pads from between the jaws. they will be tight but I think they will slide out with a little force. Once they are out, there should be enough slack for the threads to work.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." - Mike, western Colorado

View Clarkie's profile

Clarkie

455 posts in 1921 days


#3 posted 09-23-2017 05:12 PM

Try tapping the bottom of the bottom jaw with a mallet. Next, wedge a flat putty knife between the jaws and slowly and easily pop them apart.

View Rich's profile

Rich

3335 posts in 669 days


#4 posted 09-23-2017 05:19 PM

The jaw locks against the bar by cam action back and against it. Try taking a heavy non-marring hammer, like a dead blow, and rap on the part of the jaw that the handle goes into. Clarkie’s suggestion to wedge the faces apart down near the bar might help it pop open once the jaw unlocks from the bar.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

20903 posts in 3185 days


#5 posted 09-23-2017 05:39 PM

Try smacking that black piece( that the screws goes into) with a block of wood and a hammer to release the cam action that holds it tight. Then you might be able to pry it apart easily.

Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1738 posts in 2889 days


#6 posted 09-23-2017 05:39 PM

The only suggestion i have is to throw it in the trash and go get you some pipe clamps

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5032 posts in 2573 days


#7 posted 09-23-2017 06:03 PM

I would have suggested some of the remedies already mentioned, but for cleaning the glue of the bars, a heat gun really works well. It softens the glue allowing it to be easily removed.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View BB1's profile

BB1

1167 posts in 928 days


#8 posted 09-23-2017 07:02 PM

And…did a little tapping with a hammer, wedged a putty knife between the heads…this allowed me to slide off the red face AND that was all it took. A big thank you for all the suggestions. Once again, LJ to the rescue!

View bondogaposis's profile (online now)

bondogaposis

4891 posts in 2431 days


#9 posted 09-23-2017 07:49 PM


One other question…any suggestions on the best way to remove old glue drips from clamps (other than avoiding or cleaning immediately…two obviously superior options that will, hopefully, be used in the future).

- BB1

The best way is to use a heat gun and a putty knife. Once you get them clean, wax them, and in the future glue will pop right off. I’ve learned the hard way that the best practice is to wax them when they are new and unused.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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BB1

1167 posts in 928 days


#10 posted 09-23-2017 09:52 PM

I think I have most off. Do you just use paste wax?

One other question…any suggestions on the best way to remove old glue drips from clamps (other than avoiding or cleaning immediately…two obviously superior options that will, hopefully, be used in the future).

- BB1

The best way is to use a heat gun and a putty knife. Once you get them clean, wax them, and in the future glue will pop right off. I ve learned the hard way that the best practice is to wax them when they are new and unused.

- bondogaposis


View pontic's profile

pontic

622 posts in 689 days


#11 posted 09-23-2017 09:59 PM

Parallel clamps shouldn’t be over tightened. Don’t force warped pieces together with it or drive tight tenons in with them.
Those things are what pipe clamps are for.

-- Illigitimii non carburundum sum

View EricLew's profile

EricLew

213 posts in 1446 days


#12 posted 09-23-2017 10:09 PM

For the glue issue, although I haven’t had to do it, I have heard a wire brush works well. Covering the bars with craft paper or painters tape prior to glue up will eliminate the issue

-- I love the smell of coffee in the morning, and sawdust in the afternoon

View syenefarmer's profile

syenefarmer

498 posts in 3160 days


#13 posted 09-23-2017 11:32 PM

Any wax that doesn’t contain silicone will be OK to use.

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

1085 posts in 2032 days


#14 posted 09-23-2017 11:53 PM


Parallel clamps shouldn t be over tightened. Don t force warped pieces together with it or drive tight tenons in with them.
Those things are what pipe clamps are for.

- pontic

I can’t resist. Please forgive any unintentional aspersions. I always thought that eliminating warped pieces and tight tenons were a part of the craft. Clamps are what we use to hold the pieces we have shaped in the proper alignment while the glue dries. Using any clamp to force a piece into submission is not a good idea.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

9845 posts in 1566 days


#15 posted 09-24-2017 12:21 AM

Johnsons paste wax paper works for me. It’ll pop right off.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1366 posts in 1000 days


#16 posted 09-24-2017 12:49 AM

BB1,

I adopted a tip from the Woodsmith Shop to keep dripping glue off the clamps. Once I set the clamping distance for the glue-up at hand, I apply painter’s tape to the clamp. It only takes a few seconds and fully protects the clamps. The down side is the cost of the painter’s tape.

I avoid standard masking tape because I do not want to spend time trying to remove the masking tape adhesive from the clamp should I leave the tape on too long. But if the masking tape is removed soon after its application, it works just as well.

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BB1

1167 posts in 928 days


#17 posted 09-24-2017 01:56 AM

Thanks for all the suggestions on removing glue, as well as keeping glue off in the first place. Likely will add some paste wax plus have some painters tape at hand (JBrow I saw this on WoodSmith too – thanks for the reminder). I have used wax paper to place under projects (similar to the craft paper suggestion) – like the small roll with the cutoff option when juggling parts during assembly/glue up.

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