LumberJocks

All Replies on Driving Cut Nails

  • Advertise with us
View Jackcarter0714's profile

Driving Cut Nails

by Jackcarter0714
posted 08-17-2017 10:44 PM


19 replies so far

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2605 posts in 646 days


#1 posted 08-17-2017 11:23 PM

May I assume your pilot hole went through the side into the bottom? How thick are the sides? How thick is the bottom? What species lumber are you using? Cut nails do need a pretty good wallop!

I usually put a bit of grease (boiled linseed oil and bee’s wax) in the pilot hole before driving the nail.

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

View Jackcarter0714's profile

Jackcarter0714

17 posts in 401 days


#2 posted 08-17-2017 11:41 PM



May I assume your pilot hole went through the side into the bottom? How thick are the sides? How thick is the bottom? What species lumber are you using? Cut nails do need a pretty good wallop!

I usually put a bit of grease (boiled linseed oil and bee s wax) in the pilot hole before driving the nail.

- Ron Aylor

The lumber is 4/4 pine. The hole goes through the side and the bottom. I just might have to try that grease trick. The last board split on me after forcing it with a heavier hammer.

View ArtMann's profile

ArtMann

942 posts in 814 days


#3 posted 08-18-2017 01:31 AM

Why not use stainless steel screws or silicon bronze ring shank boat nails? I think your real problem is going to be rust rather than weak fasteners.

View Jackcarter0714's profile

Jackcarter0714

17 posts in 401 days


#4 posted 08-18-2017 01:40 AM



Why not use stainless steel screws or silicon bronze ring shank boat nails? I think your real problem is going to be rust rather than weak fasteners.

- ArtMann

Screws hold the wood too tight. They would never allow for enough wood movement. The wood would be splitting after a matter of days.
Those nails have no taper, just like a wire nail. That means there is nothing wedging to hold the wood. The wood is virtually free floating on the nail when using untapered nails.
Rust, or rough surfaces rather, on nails is desirable. A nail that is too slick has no texture to grip the wood.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

20000 posts in 2682 days


#5 posted 08-18-2017 02:12 AM

Maybe as simple as turning the nail 90 degrees, so it doesn’t wedge the wood apart?

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Jackcarter0714's profile

Jackcarter0714

17 posts in 401 days


#6 posted 08-18-2017 02:17 AM



Maybe as simple as turning the nail 90 degrees, so it doesn t wedge the wood apart?

- bandit571

I wish it was, man. The nail is already aligned with the grain.

View TheFridge's profile (online now)

TheFridge

9466 posts in 1484 days


#7 posted 08-18-2017 03:13 AM

Lie Nielsen carries cut nails.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4135 posts in 2307 days


#8 posted 08-18-2017 06:08 AM

To go along with bandit’s suggestion

http://www.tremontnail.com/faqs.htm

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6714 posts in 2197 days


#9 posted 08-18-2017 06:13 AM

Does anyone know any tricks to driving these nails?

I hate those things! The trick is usually to get a bigger hammer :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4135 posts in 2307 days


#10 posted 08-18-2017 06:13 AM

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2605 posts in 646 days


#11 posted 08-18-2017 10:13 AM


May I assume your pilot hole went through the side into the bottom? How thick are the sides? How thick is the bottom? What species lumber are you using? Cut nails do need a pretty good wallop!

I usually put a bit of grease (boiled linseed oil and bee s wax) in the pilot hole before driving the nail.

- Ron Aylor


The lumber is 4/4 pine. The hole goes through the side and the bottom. I just might have to try that grease trick. The last board split on me after forcing it with a heavier hammer.

- Jackcarter0714


You might also consider using 6d nails with the 4/4 pine … just a bit thinner. Good luck … and don’t forget to post your planters!

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

784 posts in 1218 days


#12 posted 08-18-2017 01:24 PM

Screws hold the wood too tight. They would never allow for enough wood movement. The wood would be splitting after a matter of days.
.
- Jackcarter0714

i have 7 year old planter boxes on my deck i assembled with stainless screws. not one spilt through 7 years of michigan weather.

im willing to bet that those nails will work their way out.
if your wood splits after a matter of days, youre starting with too high an MC in your wood.

i dont think cut nails are intended for exterior wood work.
as you stated- they are meant for masonry and say that for a reason.
why not assemble the project like millions of people have built outdoor projects for years and years?

View Jackcarter0714's profile

Jackcarter0714

17 posts in 401 days


#13 posted 08-18-2017 05:05 PM


Screws hold the wood too tight. They would never allow for enough wood movement. The wood would be splitting after a matter of days.
.
- Jackcarter0714

i have 7 year old planter boxes on my deck i assembled with stainless screws. not one spilt through 7 years of michigan weather.

im willing to bet that those nails will work their way out.
if your wood splits after a matter of days, youre starting with too high an MC in your wood.

i dont think cut nails are intended for exterior wood work.
as you stated- they are meant for masonry and say that for a reason.
why not assemble the project like millions of people have built outdoor projects for years and years?

- tomsteve

Was the planter sealed? That’s interesting. That problem with splitting is that you start with dry wood, and introduce the constant water later. The reason for using cut nails is to practice technique for period furniture. Practicing on small, unimportant projects is much better than messing up on the real thing.

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2605 posts in 646 days


#14 posted 08-18-2017 06:24 PM

... the reason for using cut nails is to practice technique for period furniture. Practicing on small, unimportant projects is much better than messing up on the real thing.

- Jackcarter0714

Now you’ve gone and opened up that can of worms. Oh my! Please be prepared for every Internet Troll on this site to offer complaint, criticism, and their unasked-for advice about how you are not building period furniture  correctly or truly period … been there, done that!

I for one shall look forward to seeing your efforts and hope you will learn to ignore the inevitable barrage. Keep it up and good for you!

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

View Dave Polaschek's profile

Dave Polaschek

2152 posts in 581 days


#15 posted 08-19-2017 12:10 AM

Brooklyn Tools & Craft sells cut nails, too. Just ordered three pounds of them myself. Don’t have any tips to offer yet, but maybe in a few weeks….

-- Dave - Minneapolis

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3367 days


#16 posted 08-19-2017 12:26 AM

So you’re practicing the usage of the cut nails? Period furniture isn’t made of cheap pine construction wood, you need to figure out how to use them on the type wood you will use for the furniture.

View Jackcarter0714's profile

Jackcarter0714

17 posts in 401 days


#17 posted 08-19-2017 01:30 AM



So you re practicing the usage of the cut nails? Period furniture isn t made of cheap pine construction wood, you need to figure out how to use them on the type wood you will use for the furniture.

- papadan

I wouldn’t touch those construction studs with a ten foot pole. This is nice rough sawn straight from the Sawyer.

View AUswimKC's profile

AUswimKC

37 posts in 1946 days


#18 posted 08-19-2017 11:29 AM

Try a bigger – tapered – pilot hole

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

784 posts in 1218 days


#19 posted 08-20-2017 05:15 PM


Was the planter sealed? That s interesting. That problem with splitting is that you start with dry wood, and introduce the constant water later. The reason for using cut nails is to practice technique for period furniture. Practicing on small, unimportant projects is much better than messing up on the real thing.

- Jackcarter0714

no sealer on it.i wanted the weathered look. the interior is lined with plastic. drilled pilot holes the size of the shanks of the screws and used exterior glue. id snap some pics, but my picture takin machine is down for the count.lumber was all down below 10% mc,too, when starting.i used cedar,too.
ive only been doing woodworking projects for about 12 years or so. as an occupation i was a carpenter- framing houses mainly. quite a few decks and railings for decks plus wood trim,too.
i may have been taught wrong, but splitting doesnt happen when moisture is introduced to wood, but when it leaves? many times nailing wood trim on a house( construction lumber has a rather high MC) using ring shanks through a nail gun and it would all look purdy. a day or 2 later with either direct sunlight or just warn days and splits would appear every now and then.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com