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Gluing Metal to Wood

by Quailguy
posted 08-11-2017 11:28 PM


22 replies so far

View woodbutcherbynight's profile

woodbutcherbynight

5491 posts in 2495 days


#1 posted 08-12-2017 01:59 AM

The epoxy will work. I have done this in the past on wear items like desks and chair backs. Something to keep in mind. While it may be dry to to touch it needs cure time to complete the process. Install it and leave it sit for several days to insure a good long lasting bond.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3734 days


#2 posted 08-12-2017 02:14 AM

I would use whatever epoxy I had on
hand. If you need to buy some, J-B Weld
is a good choice for general use.

That’s not a stress area so any general
use epoxy should be ok.

View Quailguy's profile

Quailguy

60 posts in 1278 days


#3 posted 08-12-2017 02:48 AM

Hey, thanks you guys! I assume, based on your opinion of epoxy, that I don’t need to rough up the glue side. This will an easier project than I first thought.
Thanks again
Quailguy

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

4364 posts in 799 days


#4 posted 08-12-2017 02:52 AM

I like THIS :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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Woodknack

12246 posts in 2467 days


#5 posted 08-12-2017 03:00 AM

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2050 posts in 3031 days


#6 posted 08-12-2017 04:34 AM

For that, it would seem even a dollop of silicone would work. It’d sure be easier to clean off, if need ever arose.

View Rich's profile

Rich

3353 posts in 676 days


#7 posted 08-12-2017 04:49 AM



Helpful reference
http://thistothat.com/

- Rick M

That’s a winner I just bookmarked. Thanks Rick.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Quailguy's profile

Quailguy

60 posts in 1278 days


#8 posted 08-12-2017 05:06 AM

I think You’ve got it figured out for me. Appreciate the glue reference site, I’ll use it for everything.
Thanks again to all who helped out.

View Binn's profile

Binn

93 posts in 3040 days


#9 posted 08-12-2017 06:03 AM

Quailguy,

I would recommend using a dab of Locktite PL3 urethane adhesive , it will glue anything. I use it when I need a strong glue, in the past I glued a 6×6 post to a cement walkway for some ext. stairs. Those post are still there where I installed them. Home Depot sells it in a tube, they have the PL8 or PL3, get the PL3. I had a ceramic mug that the handle got broken off, so I made a handle out of cypress wood and glued it on the side of the mug and it has never moved, that mug is my favorite coffee mug, lol. Hope this will work for you!.

-- Barry, Louisiana

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2211 posts in 1309 days


#10 posted 08-12-2017 02:17 PM

Epoxy would be my choice. A fellow at a wood store mentioned to me he uses “Go” glue (amazon has it). He uses it to attach skins to metal bottle openers without rivets.

Your application is low stress so any of the many mentioned options would be adequate.

View josephf's profile

josephf

200 posts in 2183 days


#11 posted 08-12-2017 05:37 PM

I have tried several different epoxy’s .including jb weld for glue sticking metal to wood .For instance magnets to wood .they fail general after awhile. the coin isn’t under any load so it is different . that comment about using silicone made me laugh .though i have had to remove flashing silconed to wood before and that stuff was seriously stuborn .
i was picking up epoxy recently to adhere a metal pipe into a post for a client . i needed alot .guy at supply house said something that made me think .He pointed out pl premium wood adhesive says on the label for wood to metal ,but none of the epoxy he cared actual said for metal to wood .
This thred has me thinking .Maybe epoxy isn’t so great .smells and cost alot .Or is it the type of epoxy .

View Quailguy's profile

Quailguy

60 posts in 1278 days


#12 posted 08-12-2017 06:48 PM

It is unlikely this .22 rifle will spend much time at the range as it is being engraved along with the challenge coin, but who knows. If it just sits in someone’s gun safe, double sided tape would probably work. I’m thinking any or all of everyone’s suggestions will be more than adequate. I’ll post pictures when its all done.

Thanks to all

View msinc's profile

msinc

481 posts in 590 days


#13 posted 08-12-2017 09:03 PM

I have a few suggestions…I have been doing gunsmith work for 37 years and this might be helpful. First off, I would suggest that you at least try the Forstner bit in a piece of scrap wood BEFORE you gunch up the stock and find that it cut slightly too big. The idea that you have the perfect sized bit to some random sized coin and it’s going to jump right in the area you have bored out and fit properly is probably not going to happen. It might appear to be the right size, but you need to see what it leaves in the wood when done cutting, not what the bit measures. It needs to fit very close to look and be right.
Second, I routinely glue a lot of wood and metal, not just on guns but many projects. I would suggest that you use some type of transparent epoxy and not the JB Weld or any other opaque “weld” type. The transparent epoxies seem like to me that they have the ability to actually soak into the wood some and produce a possibly better hold. One other thing I would highly suggest is that you not only rough up the back side of the coin thing, but you also degrease it just prior to gluing it in. It also helps to soak into the wood if you heat {maybe “warm up” is a better way to say it} the epoxy some just prior to gluing. This will also help it to kick off and cure quicker.
As to the “other way” to inlet this coin into the stock….draw a very close line around it and use a very sharp small chisel to cut away the wood. Cut only in towards the middle, never outward towards the line you have drawn. Take your time and go easy. A little at a time while taking your time can mean the difference between ending up with a nice job or looking for a bigger coin or possibly even another stock for the rifle!!! Good luck.

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Quailguy

60 posts in 1278 days


#14 posted 08-12-2017 09:19 PM

That makes perfect sense. I know the coin diameter is 1.75”, still waiting to get the actual coin for the thickness. I’m not a carver, so making the smooth round edge will my challenge. I was given a practice stock, so I will be able to try at least 2 times before I do the real thing. Would you recommend a curved chisel or a 1/8” – 1/4” flat chisel? Those 2 I have on hand. It’s going into a birch Ruger 10/22 stock, so it’s not the end of the world to get a new one if necessary. I have about 6 weeks to complete it, so I have time to fix any mistakes. The other issue is the stock is curved so the horizontal edges with be slightly deeper. The guy says that is not an issue for him.

This Forum always has great information from very knowledgeable folks!

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1687 posts in 2952 days


#15 posted 08-12-2017 09:25 PM

I would use shoo-goo to affix metal to wood.

View msinc's profile

msinc

481 posts in 590 days


#16 posted 08-13-2017 12:19 AM

I have a little set of woodcarving chisels and if you can find a curved one that is fairly close to the radius of the coin that might do it. Usually though whenever I have to inlet something into a stock I use the narrowest chisel I have. That 1/8” one should do just fine to work around the edge and get a good fit. You kind of want to “undercut” it at the edge and leave it slightly smaller than the coin, that way the coin will kind of press fit into place. This will help to better hold the inlay and also look better with a tighter fit. What you are really trying to avoid is any gaps around the edges. If you leave it very slightly small the edge of the coin will force the wood to conform to the proper shape for that “like it grew there” fit.
Don’t get me wrong, I really hope you can find a bit that will easily bore the exact hole you need to have the coin drop right in and look perfect….I just wouldn’t bank too heavy on it’s actually happening that way. One thing you might also try…and this is just to avoid having to hand carve out a lot of wood in the center, is to do the counter bore with a bit that is like 1/8” smaller. Then you only have to carve out the very edge to fit.

Edit: again, if you do it this way, with the smaller bit, make sure that you still only cut inward towards the center with the chisel.

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3455 days


#17 posted 08-13-2017 12:38 AM

Quailguy, I do this all the time on knife handles. Chances are this gun will not be used, it’s more of a presentation piece. The knives I make are sometimes presentation but mostly users and I have never had a failure with an inset coin or item. That said, drill your hole with a forstner bit deep enough for the coin to be under the surface. Put a layer of superglue in the hole and insert the coin making sure it is positioned right. Then fill the rest of the hole with the super glue covering the coin and level with the surface. Let it set undisturbed for 24 hours. The coin will be sealed into the stock, crystal clear and the coin can never tarnish. Even if the gun is used daily, that coin will never fall out or get scratched up.

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

2020 posts in 2725 days


#18 posted 08-13-2017 12:41 AM

I recently discovered 3M VHB tape. You should check it out.

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1687 posts in 2952 days


#19 posted 08-13-2017 02:16 AM


Quailguy, I do this all the time on knife handles. Chances are this gun will not be used, it s more of a presentation piece. The knives I make are sometimes presentation but mostly users and I have never had a failure with an inset coin or item. That said, drill your hole with a forstner bit deep enough for the coin to be under the surface. Put a layer of superglue in the hole and insert the coin making sure it is positioned right. Then fill the rest of the hole with the super glue covering the coin and level with the surface. Let it set undisturbed for 24 hours. The coin will be sealed into the stock, crystal clear and the coin can never tarnish. Even if the gun is used daily, that coin will never fall out or get scratched up.

- papadan

You don’t get that white residue all around where the superglue cured?

Pretty neat idea, I’ll have to give it a try sometime.

View josephf's profile

josephf

200 posts in 2183 days


#20 posted 09-11-2017 09:44 PM

well i tried the poly constr adhesive ,totally failed .bummer i have project out there i used it for .JB weld did not do so well .Recently tried a clear “so called” strong adhesive .seemed to work ,though application is different .a shiny magnet vrs the plain grey ones vrs copper to wood .they are all a bit different .tried the cyclamate on a shiny magnet ,failed fast .
going to get that VHB tape .that will be good to have around

View Quailguy's profile

Quailguy

60 posts in 1278 days


#21 posted 09-20-2017 06:36 PM

I want to thank everyone who offered sound advise for gluing these challenge coins into gun stocks. The request for 1 rifle turned into 20. Here’s how I made it work:
The engraver lasered a circle roughly the size of the challenge coin, but could not go deep enough to flush mount the coin. Fortunately, I had a 1.75” Forstner bit that was just a shade smaller. I built a jig to hold the stock level and stable, then deepened the holes about 3/16”. I degreased the backs of the coins and used GE “Iron Grip” clear silicon adhesive to stick them down. I placed a small square of wood on top of the coin and taped it over. Worked out well!

Thanks again to all
Quailguy

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3455 days


#22 posted 09-20-2017 08:10 PM

Looking real nice Quailguy!

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