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View Bohaiboy's profile

Lock Miter Router Bits and Technique

by Bohaiboy
posted 08-10-2017 05:23 PM


15 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5033 posts in 2575 days


#1 posted 08-10-2017 06:35 PM

It’s not the thickness, but the centering of the bit across whatever that dimension is. So I’d say as long as the pieces are consistent in thickness it shouldn’t matter.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 673 days


#2 posted 08-10-2017 06:49 PM

I am not sure why you meed a lock miter bit for this.

View Bohaiboy's profile

Bohaiboy

76 posts in 1876 days


#3 posted 08-10-2017 08:15 PM

What would you recommend Carloz? Plain miters?

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

View Rich's profile

Rich

3340 posts in 671 days


#4 posted 08-10-2017 08:38 PM

First off, you don’t need a setup block. I just wrote a blog post yesterday that shows how to set up a lock miter bit easily by separating the bit height setup from the fence setup, so you’re not wrestling with two variables at once.

Second, I don’t think this is a good place to use a lock miter joint. The reason is that the lock miter pattern will be visible from the top. Instead, I’d do a spline miter joint. Do a web search for information on how to cut them and how to make a jig to cut the slots for the splines.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Bohaiboy's profile

Bohaiboy

76 posts in 1876 days


#5 posted 08-11-2017 12:33 AM

I thought about splined miters, but I don’t want the splines to show on the front as this is set to give the appearance of the legs continuing to the top. Below is a look at the entire piece. Keep in mind this is a design in progress and will be tweaked a lot more. The two doors for the referenced miters are left and right and will hole necklaces. I want the appearance, even though there is a space, that the legs invisibly connect.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3729 days


#6 posted 08-11-2017 12:46 AM

Blind mitered slip joint.

View Bohaiboy's profile

Bohaiboy

76 posts in 1876 days


#7 posted 08-11-2017 05:24 AM

Its beautiful, but maybe above my skill level.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 673 days


#8 posted 08-12-2017 11:56 AM


What would you recommend Carloz? Plain miters?

- Bohaiboy


Tough luck. Lock miter will not work in this case. You could try biscuits but I am afraid the whole construction is very flimsy. No joint on that narrow frame will give you satisfactory results especially thay you cannot glue the panel to the frame. Which triggers a question why do you need the frame at all? Just use a simple glued up top. Rout some grooves along the edge if you want the look.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2203 posts in 1304 days


#9 posted 08-12-2017 02:13 PM

FWW a few months back had a technique for making stable frame/panel doors that lacked sufficient “beef” in the corners. Worth a look anyway.

There always is the stub tenon, bridal joint and corner spline which can be made a decorative element.

View Bohaiboy's profile

Bohaiboy

76 posts in 1876 days


#10 posted 08-12-2017 06:11 PM

The frame is functional and will have a 1/2” glued in back in rabbets. That leaves 1-1/4” inside which will be used for necklaces. The frame will have hinges on the back for opening. It is not a fixed frame

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

View Rich's profile

Rich

3340 posts in 671 days


#11 posted 08-12-2017 06:24 PM



The frame is functional and will have a 1/2” glued in back in rabbets. That leaves 1-1/4” inside which will be used for necklaces. The frame will have hinges on the back for opening. It is not a fixed frame

- Bohaiboy

What’s the back made out of, Tim? If it’s wood, and glued into rabbets, no corner joint is going to hold. You’d need to be using plywood.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Bohaiboy's profile

Bohaiboy

76 posts in 1876 days


#12 posted 08-12-2017 06:37 PM

Hi Rich. Yes plans were to rabbet 1/2” mesquite there. The end pieces will be 1.75” wide What are your thoughts on using a half blind dovetail to connect those pieces? Or could use pocket hole screws and no rabbet. Plywood is not an option on this piece.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

View Rich's profile

Rich

3340 posts in 671 days


#13 posted 08-12-2017 06:43 PM



Hi Rich. Yes plans were to rabbet 1/2” mesquite there. The end pieces will be 1.75” wide What are your thoughts on using a half blind dovetail to connect those pieces? Or could use pocket hole screws and no rabbet. Plywood is not an option on this piece.

- Bohaiboy

A solid panel of mesquite, or any wood for that matter, is going to expand and contract enough to destroy any joint you use if it’s glued in like that. Panels need to float in a groove, unglued, and I don’t see any way you’re going to do that without having gaps.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Bohaiboy's profile

Bohaiboy

76 posts in 1876 days


#14 posted 08-12-2017 07:31 PM

So would this work, I increase my width to 2”, have a floating 1/2” side panel, with groove inset 1/8-1/4” from the edge?

And thanks all for the feedback, this is a great forum and I learn a lot.

-- Tim, Houston, TX area

View Rich's profile

Rich

3340 posts in 671 days


#15 posted 08-12-2017 07:51 PM



So would this work, I increase my width to 2”, have a floating 1/2” side panel, with groove inset 1/8-1/4” from the edge?

And thanks all for the feedback, this is a great forum and I learn a lot.

- Bohaiboy

Yeah, it’s got to float. You can tack it with glue right in the center to hold it steady, but it needs to be able to expand and contract.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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