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View Risk's profile

Cutting 1/32 strips from a 1x1?

by Risk
posted 08-09-2017 07:37 PM


10 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6706 posts in 2196 days


#1 posted 08-09-2017 07:46 PM

The band saw’s table is askew which makes straight cutting neigh impossible.
- Risk

Band saw would be the safest way IMO… what exactly is wrong with the table? They are pretty easy machines to fix. Then you could rip them with a very simple fence (even just a 2×4 clamped to the table). You might also want to do a quick google search for ‘thin-rip jig’ for another alternative. You can purchase them from several places or make your own pretty easily. Work on a table saw as well.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

379 posts in 585 days


#2 posted 08-09-2017 08:18 PM

My TS with an incra will cut exact 1/32” slabs.

Come on over one afternoon and I’ll cut a bunch for you!

M

View unbob's profile

unbob

810 posts in 1900 days


#3 posted 08-10-2017 12:14 AM

For various reasons I often cut thin strips, I think I can get 1” depth using the regular freud 7 1/4” circular saw blades- thin kerf, and not too many teeth, using my 10” contractors saw with reasonable results.
I have made fixtures to do the same but much better on a shaper, but that’s another story.

View Risk's profile

Risk

3 posts in 287 days


#4 posted 08-10-2017 12:33 AM

The table saw we have also has the incra, problem though is the waste a table saw would eat up. Im hoping to get at least 10 1/32inch strips out of a 1 inch pen blank.
A standard table saw seems kind of overkill for such small pieces. Ill look into circular saw blades as well. :)


The band saw’s table is askew which makes straight cutting neigh impossible.
- Risk

Band saw would be the safest way IMO… what exactly is wrong with the table? They are pretty easy machines to fix. Then you could rip them with a very simple fence (even just a 2×4 clamped to the table). You might also want to do a quick google search for thin-rip jig for another alternative. You can purchase them from several places or make your own pretty easily. Work on a table saw as well.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

The table on the band saw looks to have been bent as if it fell some time in the past so its about 2-3% off on the x/z axis with the blade. Thanks for the term “Thin rip jig” was wracking my brain on what it was called. :)

-- "Nature is truely unique."

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

6706 posts in 2196 days


#5 posted 08-10-2017 12:35 AM

The table on the band saw looks to have been bent as if it fell some time in the past so its about 2-3% off a square 90degrees with the blade.

The table is designed so it can be tilted left and right, so if that is the direction of the ‘tilt’, most likely it can easily be corrected. If it’s tilting front to back, then it’s not a problem.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View tomd's profile

tomd

2155 posts in 3767 days


#6 posted 08-10-2017 01:40 AM

A band saw is the safe way but you can do it with a table saw. Use a thin strip jig ( sold by Rockler ) a thin kerf blade and with a piece that small I would Hot glue it to a larger board then you could cut it safely. The thin strip jig will give you constituent pieces and they fall off to the outside of the blade so your not getting them caught between the fence and the blade, also you will want a zero clearance throat plate.

-- Tom D

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

7980 posts in 2794 days


#7 posted 08-10-2017 05:34 AM

Any table saw, zero clearance insert, and a good push shoe. Rip the strips against the fence. No jigs required.
Safe and accurate.
https://youtu.be/RLNhCJ1Qn64

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View MikeB_UK's profile

MikeB_UK

114 posts in 1031 days


#8 posted 08-10-2017 10:21 AM

For something the size of a pen blank just use a hand saw.

Should be pretty easy to make a jig similar to whatever the 90 degree bit in a mitre box is called with a block 1/32 to the side.

-- I've worked out how to sharpen, now how do you get blood out of pine?

View Risk's profile

Risk

3 posts in 287 days


#9 posted 08-10-2017 06:54 PM



The table on the band saw looks to have been bent as if it fell some time in the past so its about 2-3% off a square 90degrees with the blade.

The table is designed so it can be tilted left and right, so if that is the direction of the tilt , most likely it can easily be corrected. If it s tilting front to back, then it s not a problem.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

The table is level with the floor, but bent on the y axis (the vertical axis) by about 3 degrees so a fence attached to it would would not be parallel with the blade. Still works fine for freehand cutting but doesn’t do a good job with precision long cuts.

That’s why i was thinking of picking up a new one.

Definetly looking into those thin kerf blades and thanks for the youtube vid.

Thanks for all the ideas folks, these are helping tons!

-- "Nature is truely unique."

View Loren's profile

Loren

10383 posts in 3644 days


#10 posted 08-10-2017 07:02 PM

Band saw trunnions and tables tend to
be made of cast iron so the don’t often
bend, they break. I would take it apart
to see where the problem actually is.

In any case the cut can also be made on
a table saw. A steel “planer blade” can
make pretty clean cuts and won’t consume
as much of the stock as kerf waste. For
a small amount of work steel blades stay
sharp adequately. I have a printer’s type
saw I use for small precision cuts. It uses
steel blades and I’ve been surprised at
how well the last.

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