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View HorizontalMike's profile

Filling Porous Voids in Wood For Strength

by HorizontalMike
posted 03-13-2017 12:51 PM


21 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

3052 posts in 2369 days


#1 posted 03-13-2017 12:58 PM

I would try the epoxy. If it will flow into the voids. I think you will get more strength from it. Make sure it is slow cure that will give it more time to flow into the voids. You will have to stay with it to continue adding epoxy as it flows in.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View madts's profile

madts

1873 posts in 2536 days


#2 posted 03-13-2017 01:24 PM

Ditto.

—Madts.

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8516 posts in 2774 days


#3 posted 03-13-2017 01:28 PM

Maybe use a vacuum to help the epoxy or glue get to the other side like Marc did on his
cutting board.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/cutting-board-disaster/

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3111 days


#4 posted 03-13-2017 02:08 PM


Maybe use a vacuum to help the epoxy or glue get to the other side like Marc did on his
cutting board.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/cutting-board-disaster/
- waho6o9

Many years ago I used to vacuum-bag RC sailplane wings with the slow set #206 hardener (not the fast #205). Sold my vacuum pump more than a decade ago and regret it. Now, the only vacuum I have available is from my DC hose and shop-vac. Shop vac has a stronger suction and low capacity, so that may be my best bet. My #207 hardener is slow set 20-26min pot-life, so that helps.

I’ll go with the epoxy then. I’ll get to it in a few days. That is after I finish shaping the two totes I have already cut. Thanks guys!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

2892 posts in 2222 days


#5 posted 03-13-2017 09:42 PM

Epoxy flows like honey, and should fill those voids easily. Block (with tape) the bottom so the epoxy doesn’t all flow out. But I don’t have first hand experience with zebra wood, so I have to ask—is it an oily wood, like teak? Epoxy doesn’t like oily wood so well, though you can treat it with acetone.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View George Coles's profile

George Coles

184 posts in 2642 days


#6 posted 03-13-2017 11:51 PM

Hi. I agree with the steps given by “Runswithscissors”. Another thing on top of his points that I sometimes do is to apply the vibration of the sander underneath the wood to help the epoxy run and fill. I also leave the West Sys epoxy clear, no color added as that then tends to help blend the color back to the same as the wood.

I, myself, find that it is better to fill it first and then do the sanding, shaping or rounding after.

-- George Coles, https://www.jarrahworks.com

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3111 days


#7 posted 03-14-2017 12:02 AM

The best I can tell is that Zebrawood is an open pore, rather dry wood. I like the idea of using vibration to help the flow of the epoxy. A quarter sheet sander without any paper would do it. Guessing when to tape off the outflow end will be the trick, I’m sure.

Just running Acetone through the proposed area, actually may help track the likely path of the filler/epoxy, and may be a good predictor of where to tape-off etc. Good ideas… Thanks…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Druid's profile

Druid

1910 posts in 2992 days


#8 posted 03-14-2017 05:49 AM

Interesting problem that typically is not really addressed.
Another suggestion that you might want to consider is a product, handled by Lee Valley, called Glue Syringes. This includes a set of five syringes with 10 blunt-end needles (five 18-gauge and five 20-gauge), and a curved-tip syringe.

If the openings in the wood are large enough, insert the blunt needle as far into the opening as possible, then to prevent air pockets, slowly withdraw it as you inject the glue. If you use glue instead of epoxy, the syringe and needle can be cleaned up for future use. Your local pharmacy might also have blunt needles, and may sell you what you need if you print off a copy of the Lee Valley product to show them.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20003&cat=1,110,42967

So, I’m interested in hearing how this works out for you.

-- John, British Columbia, Canada

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1576 posts in 3264 days


#9 posted 03-14-2017 12:36 PM

I have this a lot in Cherry and just use thick formulation of Cryocycolate (pardon the sp). Sets quick sand and move on. Blends in well.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View ksSlim's profile

ksSlim

1290 posts in 3087 days


#10 posted 03-14-2017 12:39 PM

Suggest applying plastic food wrap to your sander pad.
As soon as you see epoxy coming thru, apply tape.
I use 3’ wide packing tape.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3111 days


#11 posted 03-14-2017 09:00 PM

While waiting to acquire some of the above supplies, I went ahead and routed/sanded the totes into shape. After that the flawed area appears much smaller and less of an issue. We’ll see. These totes are for a couple of 409VBMs:

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2686 posts in 3119 days


#12 posted 03-14-2017 09:50 PM

I make decorative boxes and run into this issue frequently. I fill cracks and voids with an epoxy called Z-poxy. I sometimes add chalk dust to it (blue) to give it an inlaid turquoise look. Z Poxy is so thin that it will seep all the way through your wood so I place masking tape on the underside of any crack. It takes hours to cure so it has time to fill up any void. I should work for you.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website> craftingcouple.com

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3111 days


#13 posted 03-15-2017 05:12 PM

Well, I’ll have this thing sanded next morning after a full cure. This worked out rather easy, all said and done. This is the first time I actually wanted it to bleed through the other side. Last time, I had an inadvertent bleed through of stain on an Oak sideboard restoration (kind of like a weeping Madonna painting)... ;-)

I spent probably 20min slowly dripping epoxy into these holes/channels. You could see as the level dropped in each hole, very slowly…

Almost ready to sand! This is only post-3hr cure. Wax paper is sticking, but will sand off readily

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View madts's profile

madts

1873 posts in 2536 days


#14 posted 03-15-2017 05:20 PM

Looking good Mike.

—Madts.

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10320 posts in 4249 days


#15 posted 03-15-2017 06:18 PM

Those are REALLY PRETTY Totes!

Prettiest Totes I’ve seen!!

You’re doing a great job on them!

Looks like that epoxy is doing the job! ... GOOD!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

15690 posts in 2815 days


#16 posted 03-15-2017 06:51 PM

Not the greatest location for a pore line, is it… Filling is the best that can be done, I agree, and it’s looking good. Nice work.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7770 posts in 3111 days


#17 posted 03-17-2017 01:31 PM

Well, I finished up filling the void in the tote, sprayed it with Deft Semi-gloss, and mounted it on a 409VBM. Also got a new knob turned for it as well. Still need another 409 knob, plus I will be moving on to making new T&Ks for the 407, 408, 418 for now.

The NEWEST totes are in the center. One of my older totes, on the right, I treated with Amber Shellac before Deft Semi-gloss. I think I might strip it and go back to clear Deft only, in order to match my others. While the amber tote is attractive, I just find that that amber tone mutes the Zebrawood contrast that I find so appealing.

AND FINALLY… Thanks for all who recommended epoxy for the fill/fix. It worked out great! And I have an entire gallon to work with going forward!

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

3655 posts in 2185 days


#18 posted 03-17-2017 05:48 PM

Very nice looking planes

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

3177 posts in 2454 days


#19 posted 03-17-2017 09:53 PM

Mike, that is a great looking arsenal you have. Ya dun good! :)

-- Art

View Druid's profile

Druid

1910 posts in 2992 days


#20 posted 03-18-2017 12:26 AM

As good as new. Great job.

-- John, British Columbia, Canada

View mafe's profile

mafe

11741 posts in 3286 days


#21 posted 03-18-2017 03:51 PM

I have also had succes with epoxy.
Looking good.
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- MAD F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

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