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All Replies on 3/4" Table top? Please read and help out!

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View Will Merrit's profile

3/4" Table top? Please read and help out!

by Will Merrit
posted 02-01-2017 04:01 PM


3 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4853 posts in 3864 days


#1 posted 02-01-2017 04:27 PM

Will, good lookin’ table for sure.
I would attach some cleats to the bottom of the table top with elongated screw holes. That way the top can “wiggle” as the moisture/humidity changes.
Quarter sawn wood will make the best cleats, and if ya have some of the heart pine with that grain orientation, that’s what I would use. Cut ‘em about 1 1/2” wide. Chamfer the edges and taper the ends. Countersink the screw heads. That will prevent the cleats from bein’ “knee knockers”.
Space ‘em about every 18” apart, and use a good quality screws.
I am a firm believer in the “Z” clips too.
Call me if ya have questions.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Rich's profile

Rich

2280 posts in 493 days


#2 posted 02-01-2017 04:48 PM


Will, good lookin table for sure.
I would attach some cleats to the bottom of the table top with elongated screw holes.

My first thought was cleats too, until I got to the last photo. There are already supports under there, so I’m not sure how you’d attach cleats.

-- No matter how much you push the envelope, it'll still be stationery.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

5566 posts in 2717 days


#3 posted 02-01-2017 04:50 PM

Breadboard ends will frankly be difficult to cut on a top that wavy.

I would drill oversized holes through the existing stretchers, and screw it down from underneath. Figure 8 fasteners could be used around the perimeter. Go into it knowing that it will be somewhat imperfect, and that’s okay.

You have a great story to tell about the history of the log and table it became.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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