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All Replies on Finger Joints (Box / Comb joints)

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View Steve Maskery's profile

Finger Joints (Box / Comb joints)

by Steve Maskery
posted 1652 days ago


26 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112011 posts in 2204 days


#1 posted 1652 days ago

Looks like a good design well done

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Jim Crockett (USN Retired)'s profile

Jim Crockett (USN Retired)

852 posts in 2360 days


#2 posted 1652 days ago

Can’t view the video. When I click on the Play button, absolutely nothing happens!

Jim

-- A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including his/her life".

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#3 posted 1652 days ago

Hi Jim
Hmm, it works fine here. Never mind this is the link to the Blip host:
http://blip.tv/file/3205981

Dave
Thanks for the up. Shillings eh? Ah yes, I remember them well! I think they went in about 1971 IIRC!

Cheers
Steve

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View Fireguy's profile

Fireguy

132 posts in 1862 days


#4 posted 1652 days ago

Very nice jig. Thanks for the idea, that is going on my to-do list.

-- Alex

View JohnnyW's profile

JohnnyW

83 posts in 1657 days


#5 posted 1652 days ago

There’s some really nice engineering principles built into this jig. Thanks very much for taking the time to share it with us.

-- John

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2449 days


#6 posted 1652 days ago

Steve, this was a well produced video and you demonstrated a very well built jig that not only addresses the process of cutting the joints but also emphasizes a safe approach to cutting the joint as well.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to share this.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#7 posted 1564 days ago

Glad you like it, guys, thank you for the kind comments.

As it happens, I’ve just been sent a commercial model to review for British Woodworking magazine. Mine is better! :D
Well let me clarify that. The commercial model gets 10/10 for build quality, but it relies on the user having a particular router table insert (or being able to drill and tap to CNC precision), there is no guarding or chip collection facility, and the peg is rather high, so there is a minimum stock thickness of 12mm, which is a bit thick for a delicate little jewellery box, for example.
On the plus side, it comes with three different joint templates, 6, 10 and 12mm, whereas mine does only the size it is made for.
On the whole, I’m pretty pleased with this and if I made it again, I don’t think I’d change anything. Have a go!
Cheers
Steve

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View Evelinda's profile

Evelinda

4 posts in 2031 days


#8 posted 1546 days ago

Steve, this is great and you are a genious. I enjoyed it immensely have not been in my shop in ages, but I try to keep up to date on new rigs n jigs. this video may motivate me to go back to the shop just to try and make this jig. Your great, keep up the good work.

see ya’ll
Evelinda

-- Evelinda, Mission TX

View Keith Fenton's profile

Keith Fenton

312 posts in 1547 days


#9 posted 1546 days ago

Great video and looks like a great jig! Thanks Steve. I can’t wait to give it a try.

-- Scroll saw patterns @ http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com

View Knothead62's profile

Knothead62

2364 posts in 1588 days


#10 posted 1534 days ago

Very good and informative video! Thanks for sharing! Are there some detailed “plans” as to dimensions, etc., available?

View hannes's profile

hannes

52 posts in 1760 days


#11 posted 1534 days ago

I need some finger joints in the near future and this will come in very useful. Thanks Steve for sharing.

-- Hannes, Cape Town, South Africa

View ClayandNancy's profile

ClayandNancy

479 posts in 1642 days


#12 posted 1534 days ago

I just ordered the box joint kit from Woodsmith to make my jig and am waiting delivery, I think I’ll try yours first. This is a great video on making that jig. Thanks

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#13 posted 1529 days ago

Knothead, I’m not sure that this counts as “detailed” but here is a sketch of my jig. I’ve even eddited the dimension to inches for you! :)! You’ll probably have to modify the dimensions to suit your router table anyway, but this is mine.
Finger-joint jig

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3725 posts in 2290 days


#14 posted 1518 days ago

Steve—Received my DVD set Thursday, and have viewed the 2 DVD’s dealing with the bandsaw. Excellent information, well written, and nicely photographed and produced. I especially appreciate the detailed information in PDF form and Sketchup models in the Resources folder. Thanks!

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#15 posted 1517 days ago

Great! I’m glad you like them, spread the word!
:)

Cheers from hot and sunny England
Steve

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View Matt17's profile

Matt17

2 posts in 1266 days


#16 posted 1266 days ago

Hi Steve – great jig. I watched the video a few times, made a few notes then made the jig. It turned our reasonable well although I don’t (yet) have a mitre track in my table, so had to run it along the fence. A couple of things I think you should mention in the video/notes – and please correct me if I’m wrong here, I’m a router newbie!
(i) that the width of the peg must match the diameter of the cutter exactly.
(ii) that you can’t cut finger joints using this jig, in stock thinner than the diameter of the cutter (unless you want to cut the joints too long, and trim then hand plane them later.

Also – a question. I made my jig to work with a 1/2” bit – probably too big, in hindsight. As a trial, I started cutting in 18mm MDF (not at all ideal for finger joints, but I just wanted to test the jig) – meaning that the bit was trying to cut 18mm of MDF at a time – surely too much? Cutting in several steps would be a real hassle wouldn’t it? Or would you just go through and cut all fingers at say 6mm, then at 12mm, then at 18mm?

Hope to hear from you soon!

Matthew
Auckland, NZ.

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#17 posted 1266 days ago

that the width of the peg must match the diameter of the cutter exactly.

Yes. It what I call a Goldilocks fit, not too tight and not too loose – just right

that you can’t cut finger joints using this jig, in stock thinner than the diameter of the cutter (unless you want to cut the joints too long, and trim then hand plane them later.

I don’t see why not. As long as the peg is lower than the thickness of the stock, you are OK. It might look a bit odd, though, if you have wide fingers in thin stock.

Also – a question. I made my jig to work with a 1/2” bit – probably too big, in hindsight. As a trial, I started cutting in 18mm MDF (not at all ideal for finger joints, but I just wanted to test the jig) – meaning that the bit was trying to cut 18mm of MDF at a time – surely too much? Cutting in several steps would be a real hassle wouldn’t it? Or would you just go through and cut all fingers at say 6mm, then at 12mm, then at 18mm?

I think that 18mm is probably a bit thick for using this technique for the reasons you suggest. Box joints are typically used for smallish boxes and drawers, typically 6 – 12mm thick (1/4 – 1/2”) and you really need to make the cut in one go, so it means a steady approach and a meaty router if you are planning to use thicker stock.

Cheers
Steve

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View Matt17's profile

Matt17

2 posts in 1266 days


#18 posted 1266 days ago

Hi Steve – thanks for the quick response. I guess I made the (incorrect) assumption that the peg has to be square (ie width = height) – which has a bearing on how deep the fingers must be. The peg clearly has to be the same width as the bit – but the height is irrelevant. With a peg that is relatively short, the depths of the fingers can be short too.

Is there a conventional relationship between bit diameter/peg width, and stock thickness?

Matthew

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#19 posted 1266 days ago

Well a cutter that is the same diameter as the thickness of the stock will produce square fingers and that looks pretty neat.

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View geronimo's profile

geronimo

5 posts in 1249 days


#20 posted 1249 days ago

Hi Steve,
I saw a video of yours on youtube and tried to pull up your website. I didn’t have any luck. Can you direct me to the correct web address. Thanks for the great info!

View jimboy's profile

jimboy

28 posts in 1270 days


#21 posted 1249 days ago

Excellent I have been working on a router jig for finger jointing this enhances what I have been doing

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3725 posts in 2290 days


#22 posted 1249 days ago

Try: http://www.workshopessentials.com

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View geronimo's profile

geronimo

5 posts in 1249 days


#23 posted 1249 days ago

Gerry,

Thank you for the link. For some reason, I keep getting the “Oops! This link appears broken.DNS error occurred. Server cannot be found.” message.

I tried that web address in internet explorer and mozilla firefox with no luck….hmmm…works for you?
-Geronimo

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3725 posts in 2290 days


#24 posted 1249 days ago

Sure does … don’t know what could be the problem.

—Gerry

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Steve Maskery's profile

Steve Maskery

47 posts in 2011 days


#25 posted 1249 days ago

Hi Geronimo
That is, indeed,the correct address. If you are getting a DNS error, it probably means that your DNS server is corrupt (that doesn’t mean it’s your fault!). Try disabling DNS pre-fetch in your browser, or flushing the DNS (sorry, I’m on a Mac, so I can’t tell you how to do it on a PC) but I’ve had that same problem with other web sites and re-establishing the DNS server solved the problem.
The address is correct and the site is functioning properly.
Regards
Steve

-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com

View geronimo's profile

geronimo

5 posts in 1249 days


#26 posted 1246 days ago

Hi Steve,
Thank you for your reply. A new version of Mozilla Firefox came out, I downloaded it and now your site comes up on my computer no problem. Looks great. Can’t wait to browse through and check it out. I liked your video on youtube, so I am really looking to see what else is on your site. @ Gerry: Thanks for your help as well.
Best regards,
Geronimo

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