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#1 posted 02-12-2010 06:29 PM
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Looks like a good design well done
-- https://www.artisticwoodstudio.com/videos wood crafting & woodworking classes
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#2 posted 02-12-2010 07:31 PM
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Can’t view the video. When I click on the Play button, absolutely nothing happens!
Jim
-- A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including his/her life".
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#3 posted 02-12-2010 08:14 PM
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Hi Jim
Hmm, it works fine here. Never mind this is the link to the Blip host:
http://blip.tv/file/3205981
Dave
Thanks for the up. Shillings eh? Ah yes, I remember them well! I think they went in about 1971 IIRC!
Cheers
Steve
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#4 posted 02-12-2010 08:17 PM
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Very nice jig. Thanks for the idea, that is going on my to-do list.
-- Alex
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#5 posted 02-12-2010 08:56 PM
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There’s some really nice engineering principles built into this jig. Thanks very much for taking the time to share it with us.
-- John
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#6 posted 02-13-2010 12:41 AM
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Steve, this was a well produced video and you demonstrated a very well built jig that not only addresses the process of cutting the joints but also emphasizes a safe approach to cutting the joint as well.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to share this.
-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine
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#7 posted 05-11-2010 11:26 AM
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Glad you like it, guys, thank you for the kind comments.
As it happens, I’ve just been sent a commercial model to review for British Woodworking magazine. Mine is better! :D
Well let me clarify that. The commercial model gets 10/10 for build quality, but it relies on the user having a particular router table insert (or being able to drill and tap to CNC precision), there is no guarding or chip collection facility, and the peg is rather high, so there is a minimum stock thickness of 12mm, which is a bit thick for a delicate little jewellery box, for example.
On the plus side, it comes with three different joint templates, 6, 10 and 12mm, whereas mine does only the size it is made for.
On the whole, I’m pretty pleased with this and if I made it again, I don’t think I’d change anything. Have a go!
Cheers
Steve
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#8 posted 05-29-2010 08:53 PM
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Steve, this is great and you are a genious. I enjoyed it immensely have not been in my shop in ages, but I try to keep up to date on new rigs n jigs. this video may motivate me to go back to the shop just to try and make this jig. Your great, keep up the good work.
see ya’ll
Evelinda
-- Evelinda, Mission TX
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#9 posted 05-30-2010 03:55 AM
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Great video and looks like a great jig! Thanks Steve. I can’t wait to give it a try.
-- Scroll saw patterns @ http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com
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#10 posted 06-10-2010 02:22 PM
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Very good and informative video! Thanks for sharing! Are there some detailed “plans” as to dimensions, etc., available?
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#11 posted 06-10-2010 03:48 PM
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I need some finger joints in the near future and this will come in very useful. Thanks Steve for sharing.
-- Hannes, Cape Town, South Africa
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#12 posted 06-10-2010 04:20 PM
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I just ordered the box joint kit from Woodsmith to make my jig and am waiting delivery, I think I’ll try yours first. This is a great video on making that jig. Thanks
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#13 posted 06-15-2010 12:11 PM
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Knothead, I’m not sure that this counts as “detailed” but here is a sketch of my jig. I’ve even eddited the dimension to inches for you! :)! You’ll probably have to modify the dimensions to suit your router table anyway, but this is mine.
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#14 posted 06-27-2010 02:55 AM
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Steve—Received my DVD set Thursday, and have viewed the 2 DVD’s dealing with the bandsaw. Excellent information, well written, and nicely photographed and produced. I especially appreciate the detailed information in PDF form and Sketchup models in the Resources folder. Thanks!
-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"
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#15 posted 06-27-2010 03:45 PM
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Great! I’m glad you like them, spread the word!
:)
Cheers from hot and sunny England
Steve
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#16 posted 03-05-2011 01:59 PM
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Hi Steve – great jig. I watched the video a few times, made a few notes then made the jig. It turned our reasonable well although I don’t (yet) have a mitre track in my table, so had to run it along the fence. A couple of things I think you should mention in the video/notes – and please correct me if I’m wrong here, I’m a router newbie!
(i) that the width of the peg must match the diameter of the cutter exactly.
(ii) that you can’t cut finger joints using this jig, in stock thinner than the diameter of the cutter (unless you want to cut the joints too long, and trim then hand plane them later.
Also – a question. I made my jig to work with a 1/2” bit – probably too big, in hindsight. As a trial, I started cutting in 18mm MDF (not at all ideal for finger joints, but I just wanted to test the jig) – meaning that the bit was trying to cut 18mm of MDF at a time – surely too much? Cutting in several steps would be a real hassle wouldn’t it? Or would you just go through and cut all fingers at say 6mm, then at 12mm, then at 18mm?
Hope to hear from you soon!
Matthew
Auckland, NZ.
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#17 posted 03-05-2011 03:00 PM
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that the width of the peg must match the diameter of the cutter exactly.
Yes. It what I call a Goldilocks fit, not too tight and not too loose – just right
that you can’t cut finger joints using this jig, in stock thinner than the diameter of the cutter (unless you want to cut the joints too long, and trim then hand plane them later.
I don’t see why not. As long as the peg is lower than the thickness of the stock, you are OK. It might look a bit odd, though, if you have wide fingers in thin stock.
Also – a question. I made my jig to work with a 1/2” bit – probably too big, in hindsight. As a trial, I started cutting in 18mm MDF (not at all ideal for finger joints, but I just wanted to test the jig) – meaning that the bit was trying to cut 18mm of MDF at a time – surely too much? Cutting in several steps would be a real hassle wouldn’t it? Or would you just go through and cut all fingers at say 6mm, then at 12mm, then at 18mm?
I think that 18mm is probably a bit thick for using this technique for the reasons you suggest. Box joints are typically used for smallish boxes and drawers, typically 6 – 12mm thick (1/4 – 1/2”) and you really need to make the cut in one go, so it means a steady approach and a meaty router if you are planning to use thicker stock.
Cheers
Steve
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#18 posted 03-06-2011 01:22 AM
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Hi Steve – thanks for the quick response. I guess I made the (incorrect) assumption that the peg has to be square (ie width = height) – which has a bearing on how deep the fingers must be. The peg clearly has to be the same width as the bit – but the height is irrelevant. With a peg that is relatively short, the depths of the fingers can be short too.
Is there a conventional relationship between bit diameter/peg width, and stock thickness?
Matthew
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#19 posted 03-06-2011 01:54 AM
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Well a cutter that is the same diameter as the thickness of the stock will produce square fingers and that looks pretty neat.
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#20 posted 03-22-2011 08:19 AM
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Hi Steve,
I saw a video of yours on youtube and tried to pull up your website. I didn’t have any luck. Can you direct me to the correct web address. Thanks for the great info!
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#21 posted 03-22-2011 08:52 AM
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Excellent I have been working on a router jig for finger jointing this enhances what I have been doing
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#22 posted 03-22-2011 07:39 PM
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Try: http://www.workshopessentials.com
—Gerry
-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"
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#23 posted 03-22-2011 08:22 PM
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Gerry,
Thank you for the link. For some reason, I keep getting the “Oops! This link appears broken.DNS error occurred. Server cannot be found.” message.
I tried that web address in internet explorer and mozilla firefox with no luck….hmmm…works for you?
-Geronimo
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#24 posted 03-22-2011 08:31 PM
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Sure does … don’t know what could be the problem.
—Gerry
-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"
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#25 posted 03-22-2011 08:39 PM
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Hi Geronimo
That is, indeed,the correct address. If you are getting a DNS error, it probably means that your DNS server is corrupt (that doesn’t mean it’s your fault!). Try disabling DNS pre-fetch in your browser, or flushing the DNS (sorry, I’m on a Mac, so I can’t tell you how to do it on a PC) but I’ve had that same problem with other web sites and re-establishing the DNS server solved the problem.
The address is correct and the site is functioning properly.
Regards
Steve
-- The Complete Tablesaw - http://www.workshopessentials.com
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#26 posted 03-26-2011 06:39 AM
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Hi Steve,
Thank you for your reply. A new version of Mozilla Firefox came out, I downloaded it and now your site comes up on my computer no problem. Looks great. Can’t wait to browse through and check it out. I liked your video on youtube, so I am really looking to see what else is on your site. @ Gerry: Thanks for your help as well.
Best regards,
Geronimo
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