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View Knot_Head's profile

Pergola Help?

by Knot_Head
posted 02-09-2010 08:02 PM


21 replies so far

View JAGWAH's profile

JAGWAH

929 posts in 1835 days


#1 posted 02-09-2010 08:24 PM

Strongtie has several hold down clips that could work. To minimize there appearance I’d install on the back side of the outside beam first before installing the inside beam. I’ve done similar and if I find the photo I’ll post it.
Just pan down this sites page and you’ll see several styles.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

View Knot_Head's profile

Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#2 posted 02-09-2010 08:32 PM

I have seen those but the appearance of 30+ something throughout this project has me….....

Can you powdercoat them?

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112933 posts in 2328 days


#3 posted 02-09-2010 08:41 PM

Well knot Head
There is another type clip that come in left and right hand types there smaller than the first one on the page that Bob sent a link to and in my area they meet code in my area. They are down the page a little there h 2.5 and h2.5a in Bobs link.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Knot_Head's profile

Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#4 posted 02-09-2010 08:45 PM

I have worked with those before and they still are not the most pleasant to look at.

View miles125's profile

miles125

2179 posts in 2756 days


#5 posted 02-09-2010 08:50 PM

Any visible hardware straps will take away from the look of the pergola imo. Making it look more like the underside of your deck! I’d stick with notching the 2×6’s at joint locations then toe screw, or just 2 toe screws.

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112933 posts in 2328 days


#6 posted 02-09-2010 08:52 PM

Some folks just toe nail a deck screw on each side. But if you have codes in your area you better check because the h2.5s meet code and screws don’t in my area. The reason they want hurricane clips is because strong winds can lift the end of your roof knocking the whole thing down.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Knot_Head's profile

Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#7 posted 02-09-2010 08:57 PM

Yeah miles125, that is what I am thinking. a1Jim, I am aware of the building codes and from talking to a couple of the inspectors, they are not required where I live. Thanks for the info, though!

You don’t see many pergolas with 2×6’s as slats on the top, but we like the look a lot.

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#8 posted 02-09-2010 08:59 PM

I guess, I could get the drill press out and drill a hole so that I can drive a screw down from the top into the joist.

http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_0_LTF_information.htm

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112933 posts in 2328 days


#9 posted 02-09-2010 09:01 PM

Have fun enjoy the build

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Knot_Head's profile

Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#10 posted 02-09-2010 09:02 PM

After looking at the screws a little more, no need for a pre drilled hole.

Jim, I think I came off a little wrong, I want to thank you for all the help. I am a little picky with things and I apologize if I came off wrong.

View sphere's profile

sphere

109 posts in 1782 days


#11 posted 02-09-2010 09:06 PM

You can get log home type screws up to 10” long, called “Timber Tech” IIRC from McFeely’s. A 5/16” nut driver in an impact driver and away ya go, some woods don’t require a pilot hole even. To be safe, I’d probably run a long 3/16” bell hanger type bit at least part way thru for a guide pilot.

The screws are either blk. epoxy coated or SS….SS is REALLY pricey tho’.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#12 posted 02-09-2010 09:09 PM

I have got a question, if I went with the epoxy coated ones and screwed them from the top and silicone over’ed the hole, would I still get the staining of the wood from the screw with cedar?

View sphere's profile

sphere

109 posts in 1782 days


#13 posted 02-09-2010 09:16 PM

Eventually I think it would, but how long? Maybe 10 yrs? Maybe not at all. I’ve used them in Cypress, not as acidic as WRC.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#14 posted 02-09-2010 09:21 PM

That’s what I was thinking. Thanks.

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Knot_Head

21 posts in 1786 days


#15 posted 02-09-2010 09:48 PM

Now, I am hearing that Timberlok set of screws will not stain cedar and have a warranty and they come in the lengths I need so that is an option as well.

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1819 days


#16 posted 02-09-2010 10:22 PM

I know that you would rather not see hardware, but I’ve used Strongties where I really needed the strength. To minimize the “hardware look”, I wash them in a TSP solution, then prime and paint them with Rustoleum.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View SteveB's profile

SteveB

57 posts in 2809 days


#17 posted 02-10-2010 12:32 AM

I cut a 2” deep notch in the top runners, then toenail screws in. The notches ensure that everything stays nicely aligned, and it looks nice to have the small overlap.

-- Steve B - New Life Home Improvement

View JAGWAH's profile

JAGWAH

929 posts in 1835 days


#18 posted 02-10-2010 12:52 AM

I’ve been slow to come back. Yes I agree appearance can be an issue. That’s why I said to install inside the forward beam before placing the inner beam. I do prime and paint the clips first and I use the ones Jim pointed out that are designed left or rights.

I have predrilled through the rafter tops and driven TimberLoc screws down into the beam then glued a plug over top as well as making sure if any lattice is above it covers the plug as well. This is mostly due to my belief, glued or not water will find a way into the hole and eventually cause an issue.

Another way is to cut a birds mouth into the rafters such that you can screw from the back side of the beam into the lowered notch, drawing it tight. Toe nailing is a poor way to attach and often the rafter splinters out.

Personal note, hold down hardware, here and many areas is required by code.

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

View sphere's profile

sphere

109 posts in 1782 days


#19 posted 02-10-2010 12:54 AM

Timber lok, duh, thats the name.

Good deal if ya can swing it. I shoulda looked at mine, I just last week got 100 at 4.5” long.

-- Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Wood Works

View JAGWAH's profile

JAGWAH

929 posts in 1835 days


#20 posted 02-10-2010 01:07 AM

I like them a lot. I’ve used them to build a lot of gates and pergolas. As well as Trussloc

http://www.mcfeelys.com/trusslok-screws

-- ~Just A Guy With A Hammer~

View cathyb's profile

cathyb

757 posts in 1995 days


#21 posted 02-10-2010 01:45 AM

Take a look at my refurbished pergola. It is twenty years old and now repainted and improved with aluminum flashing. We have hurricanes here and lots of rain. The Simpson ties that I used to join the structural elements together made that structure solid as a rock face. As for the cross pieces over the top, (my are 2”x3”) use deck screws and then cover them with flashing (secure with roofing nails). Give it primer and at least three coats of paint before it is taken over by vines. Pay attention to the bottom of your post. I initially coated mine with creosote (which I don’t think you can buy anymore). You have to keep the bottom of your columns out of sitting water. Your pergola should last as long as you can maintain the wood. Good luck…......

-- cathyb, Hawaii, www.cathyswoodworking.com

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