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All Replies on How would you make these legs?

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View huyz's profile

How would you make these legs?

by huyz
posted 11-06-2016 05:04 AM


23 replies so far

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

448 posts in 1458 days


#1 posted 11-06-2016 08:01 AM

That design is ok, looks good anyway with the fact that it will hide all the end grain. Personally I would use a spline miter. That would give the joint plenty of strength.
http://lumberjocks.com/BigRedKnothead/blog/38806
I assume the bench is for outdoor use. I would use stainless steel screws.

-- John

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2604 posts in 644 days


#2 posted 11-06-2016 11:50 AM

Multiple Mitered Slip Joint …

-- Ron in Lilburn, Georgia.  Knowing how to use a tool is more important than the tool in and of itself.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10383 posts in 3644 days


#3 posted 11-06-2016 12:04 PM

Butt joints and pocket screws where nobody looks.

Pocket screw holes can be freehanded with a
3/8” spade bit. Drill straight for a bit to get
the spade engaged in the wood and then
twist in the cut to the desired angle.

Of course you can get a pocket hole jig for
$20 or so.

I can badmouth pocket screws with the best of
them but they are the right fastener for a lot
of jobs when traditional joinery is too time
consuming.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1286 posts in 1727 days


#4 posted 11-06-2016 02:54 PM

Rabbet the verticals, cut the horizontals with the proper angle and screw them together at the top and bottom. Measure the thickness of the top and the thickness of the top horizontal bar, add them together, and purchase screws that are at least a 1/4” shorter. If you countersink the screws, take that into consideration before you get the screws. Drill the proper size pilot hole, attach the legs using good glue, and you’re good to go…............ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4727 posts in 2348 days


#5 posted 11-06-2016 04:39 PM

Box joints will be the strongest. For mitered joints I would spline them to add strength.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

11618 posts in 2377 days


#6 posted 11-06-2016 04:54 PM

Someone asked this question before about the same bench. Agree with Bondo, box joints are the way to go.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View huyz's profile

huyz

58 posts in 858 days


#7 posted 11-07-2016 10:42 PM

Thank you for all of the replies guys!

Clamping this trapezoid is going to be difficult no matter which method used right ? Splined miters would look cleanest but require making a separate jig—more difficult than a box joint jig I believe. I wonder if box joints will be visible once dyed black.

Might go for box joints, or butt joints with screws. Lots of things to consider while finishing up the top :)

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

9454 posts in 1483 days


#8 posted 11-08-2016 02:08 AM


Someone asked this question before about the same bench. Agree with Bondo, box joints are the way to go.

- Rick M.

Ditto

Edit: a little glue and free fine sawdust cures almost all cracks. Especially if painted.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10383 posts in 3644 days


#9 posted 11-08-2016 02:34 AM

Those legs are totally a biscuit joiner type thing
from the days when they were the hot thing
in WW magazines. The joiner handles the
angles at a snap, etc… that’s another way
but you still have to mess with clamping
any way you do it. I still maintain pocket
screws and butt joints are the least fuss
(screws in end grain are weak fasteners) but
considering the scope of doing the whole
project, lavishing some care on the joints
only adds a bit of time.

Personally I think these sorts of designs are
weak and I’d prefer an added gusset inside
the leg frames. This stuff is typically design-school
output and young design students often haven’t
been observing furniture much before school
and have no repair experience. Just fyi…
I get asked to make school designs from time
to time and they are always problematical.

View DirtyMike's profile

DirtyMike

637 posts in 899 days


#10 posted 11-08-2016 02:39 AM

with a welder.

View tblank's profile

tblank

61 posts in 2967 days


#11 posted 11-08-2016 05:00 AM

If the legs are to be paint grade, why not cut them out of a piece of plywood as a single unit. Lay them up to achieve desired thickness with epoxy. Edge band the visible edges and paint. Legs with no joints at all and still strong enough to bear required weight.

View Craftsman on the lake's profile

Craftsman on the lake

2790 posts in 3434 days


#12 posted 11-08-2016 06:34 AM

Make them without the 45’s. Just be sure the verticals overlap the horizontals so the end grain of the horizontal pieces don’t show from the sides. Then put two screws in each corner. Countersink them and plug with a wood dowel, chisel and sand off the extra. When painted they won’t show at all and it will be strong.

Screws will also be strong.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View huyz's profile

huyz

58 posts in 858 days


#13 posted 11-08-2016 07:05 AM

Thanks for the tips everyone.

I just wrapped my head around standard box joints for 90 degree angles, but for a trapezoid like this it gets more complex I think—how do you accomplish this? Also how would you clamp a trapezoid like this—a custom jig just for this project?

Kinda leaning towards butt joints to not overcomplicate this.

View huyz's profile

huyz

58 posts in 858 days


#14 posted 11-08-2016 07:07 AM



If the legs are to be paint grade, why not cut them out of a piece of plywood as a single unit. Lay them up to achieve desired thickness with epoxy. Edge band the visible edges and paint. Legs with no joints at all and still strong enough to bear required weight.

- tblank

Maybe I’m not understanding you right, but if it’s cut from a single sheet won’t it require multiple sheets, with tons of waste?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6706 posts in 2196 days


#15 posted 11-08-2016 07:25 AM

with a welder.
- DirtyMike

That was my first thought also… as soon as I saw it, I instantly thought rectangular metal tubing.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Drew's profile

Drew

350 posts in 3097 days


#16 posted 11-08-2016 03:01 PM

I personally use Dominoes for glue ups like this, but that’s an expensive option. Splines are the next best option.
Keep your cut offs when you cut your miters. You can then hot glue them to the outsides so your clamps have something square to clamp against.

-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View bandit571's profile (online now)

bandit571

19982 posts in 2680 days


#17 posted 11-08-2016 03:41 PM

Hmmmmmm

Just an idea…

Maybe too complicated….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

448 posts in 1458 days


#18 posted 11-08-2016 05:34 PM

No need for a special jig for spline miters. Checkout bigredknotheads post. Shows you how to do it on your table saw. Makes for a very strong miter joint, That looks really good.


That design is ok, looks good anyway with the fact that it will hide all the end grain. Personally I would use a spline miter. That would give the joint plenty of strength.
http://lumberjocks.com/BigRedKnothead/blog/38806
I assume the bench is for outdoor use. I would use stainless steel screws.

- bigJohninvegas


-- John

View whiteshoecovers's profile

whiteshoecovers

59 posts in 1081 days


#19 posted 11-08-2016 06:20 PM

George Nelson is rolling over in his grave

View tblank's profile

tblank

61 posts in 2967 days


#20 posted 11-08-2016 07:41 PM

Huyz Depending on the dimensions of the table, it shouldn’t take more than a sheet of 3/4” ply. What I meant was, the cut out is one piece and laminated to desired thickness. With proper layout. I can see multiple pieces from one sheet of plywood if the table I less than four feet wide. It seems to me eliminating the joints would give need rigidity. The “waste” could be saved for other projects like making templates or router/table saw sleds or a number of things. Laminating with epoxy would make them darn near bombproof. Why complicate things with un-needed joints? Hope this explains better. Good Luck.

View bilyo's profile

bilyo

216 posts in 1099 days


#21 posted 11-18-2016 04:19 AM

I assume you are building this for exterior use. If so, I would have the legs fabricated from steel box sections and then have them powder coated.

View huyz's profile

huyz

58 posts in 858 days


#22 posted 11-18-2016 04:35 AM



I assume you are building this for exterior use. If so, I would have the legs fabricated from steel box sections and then have them powder coated.

- bilyo

They would be for interior use, but steel box sections sounds very sturdy. Thanks!

View jbay's profile

jbay

2281 posts in 896 days


#23 posted 11-18-2016 04:43 AM

Joints could be screwed or doweled from the top and the bottom.

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