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View CharlesA's profile

What joinery would you use for this table?

by CharlesA
posted 10-27-2016 07:16 PM


17 replies so far

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2649 posts in 734 days


#1 posted 10-27-2016 07:22 PM

Mortise and tendon all around … unless it needs to come apart!

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3734 days


#2 posted 10-27-2016 07:30 PM

My thought is the bottom part of the top may
have bolts through it going into threaded
inserts in the “legs”. Then the lacquered wood
top is dropped on over that. Hanger bolts
in the legs could work too. That rounded
white portion looks hollow to me, with a
plywood bottom.

Perhaps the painted part is just a curved apron.
In any case, the joinery of the legs shouldn’t
be too challenging with so much room to
work.

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3334 posts in 1884 days


#3 posted 10-27-2016 07:42 PM



Mortise and tendon all around … unless it needs to come apart!

- Ron Aylor

Tell me more. I would have thought that a mortise and tenon joint from the base to those legs would be prone to snapping given that the locations would be so close to the center with the table extending so far out.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View jbay's profile

jbay

2494 posts in 986 days


#4 posted 10-27-2016 07:46 PM

Yeah,
I should have given it more thought before I answered.

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3334 posts in 1884 days


#5 posted 10-27-2016 07:49 PM



My thought is the bottom part of the top may
have bolts through it going into threaded
inserts in the “legs”.

- Loren

threaded inserts is a good variation on what I was thinking. I think I’d be a little wary of a hanger bolt—I’ve never had much luck with them.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

5175 posts in 2291 days


#6 posted 10-27-2016 08:12 PM

Agree with the above comments,
however as an alternative suggestion

1. Make the frame and attaach the legs from the top with screws.
2. Then attach the top from the bottom again with screws.
3. Repeat the process for the base

That way if it needs dis assembly late you can do it.

-- Regards Rob

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

5170 posts in 1807 days


#7 posted 10-27-2016 08:38 PM

Do you have any other pictures showing the relationship of the legs running to and from the photographer and the legs running to the sides? It kind of looks like the base of the pair running to and from are slightly higher than the base of the pair running side to side. If that’s the case, I’d make each pair as one and cut a half lap joint at the bottom then run a carriage bolt through as you have described.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3734 days


#8 posted 10-27-2016 10:45 PM

I mention hanger bolts because there are hanger
bolt insertion machines used in making tables
in commercial settings. I think the machines
drill and then insert but I don’t recall exactly,
maybe they just put the hanger bolts in.

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3334 posts in 1884 days


#9 posted 10-27-2016 10:47 PM

That’s interesting, Loren. I may just be reflecting finding them in particle board furniture.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2649 posts in 734 days


#10 posted 10-27-2016 11:18 PM

Mortise and tenons all around … unless it needs to come apart!

- Ron Aylor

Tell me more. I would have thought that a mortise and tenon joint from the base to those legs would be prone to snapping given that the locations would be so close to the center with the table extending so far out.

- CharlesA


 
Charles – This is what I was thinking:


 

View JBrow's profile

JBrow

1366 posts in 1007 days


#11 posted 10-28-2016 01:11 AM

CharlesA,

I cannot really add any meaningful comments regarding attaching the legs to the base beyond what has already been suggested. But I do favor using threaded inserts and bolts to attach the legs and the stabilizing outriggers to the base. I prefer threaded inserts since they seem to hold up better after repeated assembly and disassembly. The stabilizing outriggers that support the legs at the base could be glued to the legs. Loose tenons or dowels could be used to reinforce the stabilizing outriggers to the legs joint.

However, if a slight variation to the design is possible, the stabilizing outriggers could be eliminated, attaching the legs a made little easier, and additional space could be afforded for chairs to tuck under the table. If the legs are semi-elliptical rather than semi-circular, a flat spot could be cut into the elliptical legs where they meet the base without having to shave much off the legs where they meet the base. These elliptical legs could support a little larger top and thus provide a little more room for the chairs. The flat spot on the legs could be glued to the base where the legs run parallel to the grain of the base, either with a butt joint, or reinforced with dowels or loose tenons. Elongated holes in the base and screws could secure the flat spot of the legs to the base where the legs are perpendicular to the grain of the base. If disassembly of the legs from the base is required, threaded inserts installed in the flat spots on the elliptical legs and bolts through the base could be used.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12246 posts in 2467 days


#12 posted 10-28-2016 02:04 AM

I didn’t read the other replies so I’m probably just repeating everyone but the legs appear to be metal or cast acrylic, so I’d tap the legs and run a bolt through the bottom; or maybe a lag screw.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3334 posts in 1884 days


#13 posted 10-28-2016 01:50 PM



I didn t read the other replies so I m probably just repeating everyone but the legs appear to be metal or cast acrylic, so I d tap the legs and run a bolt through the bottom; or maybe a lag screw.

- Rick M.

I’d be shocked if those legs aren’t wood (even if hollow).

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2298 posts in 2456 days


#14 posted 10-28-2016 02:13 PM

I like Loren’s suggestion of hanger bolts. I’ve used them to connect solid oak railings to newel posts. Forget the particleboard stuff, in solid wood, those things are extremely solid.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12246 posts in 2467 days


#15 posted 10-28-2016 03:30 PM


I d be shocked if those legs aren t wood (even if hollow).

- CharlesA

Do you have information about it besides the picture? Because it doesn’t look like wood. Where did you get the pic? If they are wood they are probably laminations.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3334 posts in 1884 days


#16 posted 10-28-2016 03:33 PM

I know the guy’s work, and he is a pretty meticulous woodworker. He could use laminations, hollow forms, etc., but he’s not using other materials, I am sure.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12246 posts in 2467 days


#17 posted 10-28-2016 04:05 PM

Doesn’t change my answer.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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