LumberJocks

All Replies on Old Radial Arm Saw

  • Advertise with us
View scottishrose's profile

Old Radial Arm Saw

by scottishrose
posted 09-26-2009 12:41 AM


20 replies so far

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2128 days


#1 posted 09-26-2009 01:07 AM

Try looking for some evaporust at your local HF. Or you can alawys try electrolysis to remove the rust. Its easy and cheap. DO NOT rip on a radial arm under any circumstances.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Kjuly's profile

Kjuly

302 posts in 1952 days


#2 posted 09-26-2009 04:11 AM

I am with MedicKen,,,avoid ripping with the radial arm saw. There are much safer ways of getting the job done. The key to getting good results from the RAS ( aside from getting it set up properly) is to use a blade that is made for it. The following link covers blade selection and you will see that they make blades for RAS only and for table saw only. In your stack of old blades there is a good chance that some of those blades were not made for the RAS. I am not promoting Delta blades just using the information as a reference. www.deltaportercable.com/sawblades/selector.aspx
I hope this helps.

-- Keith, Charlotte, MI www.julyswoodworks.com

View scottishrose's profile

scottishrose

110 posts in 1832 days


#3 posted 09-26-2009 05:07 AM

It was my understanding from reading the manual that the head can be swiveled 90 degrees and one can rip using the fence going across the table. Is there new info I should know about saftey and this proceedure? The only other option I have at present is a not so good skill saw.

View spindle's profile

spindle

11 posts in 1839 days


#4 posted 09-26-2009 05:12 AM

I got by for a long time with a 1960’s cast iron RAS. And have ripped many many linear feet of wood. The saw MUST be setup correctly and have the cast iron arm. Try this book http://mrsawdust.com. I don’t call it gospel but it has some good information. The RAS just like any other tool has to be treated with respect. If your not comfortable setting up the saw or familiar with power tools you might want to stick to a table saw for ripping. But it must be set up correctly as well. The RAS is great for dado’s, miters and bevel miters. The Freud LU84 is a good combination blade for the RAS or table saw and can be had for 50 or 60 bucks. A lot of folks claim that the top line RAS blade is a Forrest Woodworker I. I like the Freud better myself.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, Greg

View scottishrose's profile

scottishrose

110 posts in 1832 days


#5 posted 09-26-2009 09:49 AM

Thanks spindle for that advice, I am ordering the book as we speak. I read the manual that came with the saw, but the adjustment proceedures were a bit vague and hard to understand. I do not have a table saw which is why I was hoping to at least be able rip plywood on it. From my research tonight, I think there are some safety updates I may be able to add to the saw as well as give it a good tune up. Just wish I could start cutting wood instead of spending so much time setting up equipment. Then at least I’d have something to put in my picture file. Thanks again for the book review.

View scottishrose's profile

scottishrose

110 posts in 1832 days


#6 posted 09-26-2009 09:53 AM

Keith,
Thanks for the advice and the link to the saw blade guide. Seems the porter cable folks don’t want anything to do with radial arm saws their co sold years ago and send anyone asking questions about them to another company altogether. Hopefully with the help of the good folks here I can get it tuned up and up to date safety wise.

View spindle's profile

spindle

11 posts in 1839 days


#7 posted 09-26-2009 03:28 PM

I know that feeling of will I ever get to work. For cutting plywood you can use a circular saw (a really good blade can be had at Homedepot for less than 20) and a homemade cutting guide. I made a sacrificial 2×3 frame that sits on top of my work bench, the plywood and the cutting guide get clamped to it. Set your saw depth to cut through the ply and just in to the 2×3’s. Works really well since the plywood lays flat and the off fall stays right there. The frame is 3’x6’ put together with drywall screws.

View shinju's profile

shinju

185 posts in 1999 days


#8 posted 09-26-2009 05:30 PM

nice to see the oldtools being used,the ras has a bad rap as being unsafe, get the book from mr.sawdust,i have a 1958 dewalt 1030 ras which can use 8” or 10” blades, the trick is to see if the bearings are good and you have complete guard set up on the saw ,i rip on mine with no problem, the most important thing is you know how to set the tool up and know fully what the saw can do.make sure you set the tool up right and you will have no problems with it.also wolf machine can help you with parts for it enjoy it.like any other tool be safe and it will work out great.shinju

-- enjoy, be well and enjoy life with all around you

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3469 posts in 2627 days


#9 posted 09-26-2009 08:40 PM

‘Rose!! Throw all those old blades in the trash. Get a new, thin kerf Freud 80 th for crosscuts, and a 24th for rips. I use Board buddies on my RAS for hold-downs when ripping.
There will be those who will tell ya that the RAS can’t do this or that, but mine has served me well since 1978. I just bought my first TS 3 yrs ago (and I still have all my fingers).
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3469 posts in 2627 days


#10 posted 09-26-2009 08:43 PM

OH, just a thought…...
Got anyone near ya that can help and show how to true up the RAS?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View scottishrose's profile

scottishrose

110 posts in 1832 days


#11 posted 09-27-2009 12:01 AM

thanks all for all the advice!

Spindle: what did you make the 3’x6’ part of that frame out of? Thanks for the info on Mr Sawdust! I’m ordering the book today even though I swore I would not buy another book this month; my other passion, which can compliment tools quite well when the books are about woodworking.
Bill: I was thinking the same thing – although most of the rust is gone (i think) there is just too much gunk on the blades for them to be usefull again.
A dado set is certanly high up on my next tool purchase list, although with what I learn from the book recommended by Spindle, I may have to purchase some upgrade and safety equipment for the RA saw.

One thing I learned while researching saw blades on the web recommended by Keith is that DeWalt made RA saws with a blade arbor that does not fit any blades made today so I will probably have to buy an adaptor to use any new blades specifically made for RA saws.
Thanks to all! The suggestions took me on an all night web research trip with many dead ends especially when dealing with DeWalt and Black and Decker who made the things but want nothing to do with any questions about them now, but with some of the new info supplied by LJ folks I have more confidence I can get the thing running, tuned up and working safely.

View spindle's profile

spindle

11 posts in 1839 days


#12 posted 09-27-2009 01:20 AM

I made the frame out of construction grade 2×3’s from Homedepot or Lowes.

View shinju's profile

shinju

185 posts in 1999 days


#13 posted 09-27-2009 07:32 PM

try this web site old woodwoorking machines, type in the model number and make of your saw and you will get a lot of info on your saw,question are you sure about the spindle size on your ras? they are standard size never heard of a dewalt with a other size spindle check it out, a good hint as with any saw is the blades get the best ones used for the ras,be safe ,be well ,shinju

-- enjoy, be well and enjoy life with all around you

View charlie48's profile

charlie48

248 posts in 1836 days


#14 posted 09-27-2009 08:21 PM

I use a Freud 80T -3 degree hook thin kerf blade on my Dewalt 7730 and it works great, but I have to side with medicken and kjuly on not to rip on a RAS been there done that, it can be done but there are better ways to rip that are easier on the nerves,after all,all of this is supposed to be fun . Good luck.
Charlie

-- Charlie............Only time will tell if it was time well spent.

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1867 days


#15 posted 09-28-2009 12:16 AM

Scottishrose,
I have an RAS in my shop and I love it. Ripping plywood though, not a healthy idea. I mainly use it with a dado blade for making lap joints and for crosscutting wider stock that my CMS can’t handle. Now that being said, You really need to carefully go through all the measuring details and adjust the saw properly. If the Head is not square to the Arm your cuts will be off. If the Arm is not square(90 degrees) to the Fence, you will suffer run out. The wider the board the worse the run out. The adjustments aren’t hard, but you sound like you have the patience to do it right. Generally, Look into replacing the wood fence at the back of the RAS table. If your saw has sat for a while this little piece of wood can be come warped. If the fence is not square you won’t be able tp properly adjust the saw. I replace mine every 2 years, just because it gets beat up and sliced through in so many places.Also, invest in some of the plastic drafting triangles. You can quickly check run out and square to the blade. I also use a drywall square to check the trueness of the fence over its length. I make my fences out of white oak or ash, then wax the front side with bees wax to promote slippage.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View hjt's profile

hjt

776 posts in 1805 days


#16 posted 10-22-2009 10:44 PM

Rose – I came across your post as I too am looking for answers for a B&D- DeWalt 1350 RAS. The interesting thing is that I (like you) acuired the saw through the death of my dad. The sad thing is that I had little to no interest in wood working until about a year or 2 ago. Wish dad was around to share my new found excitement I have in a hobby he held for so many years.

IN my research I too have found many dead links, but here’s one that may be of help to you – http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/dewaltrebuild.pdf

Good luck

Harold – Florida

-- Harold

View studie's profile

studie

618 posts in 1813 days


#17 posted 10-24-2009 02:25 AM

Rose, I’ve also heard that ripping is scary on a ras but can be done. I have a rockwell super 900 about 1950? and is the best that was made they say. Made a new table from an Ikea countertop $40 but moves a little in the moist shop. The RAS was before the modern sliding chopsaw but was state of the industry in it’s day. I have much literature on mine & shows all kinds of applications from shaper blades, grinding, routing the list is endless so it is a fine tool. None the less ripping is the last thing I would do on one. Yes I had to true up mine as at 90 degrees it was off a mite bit so check that out. Glad that you are vigilant in the craft, should you need a local let me know as I’m not far away.

-- $tudie

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1487 posts in 2019 days


#18 posted 10-24-2009 11:20 PM

Never say anything rusty is a goner with Evapo Rust now available. Take a look at these pictures, especially note the Drill Chuck, that is just amazing.

Evapo Rust Examples

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

View hjt's profile

hjt

776 posts in 1805 days


#19 posted 10-25-2009 08:34 PM

BlankMan… That some impressive stuff! Where can one get this and how long does it keep the ruct away before having to reapply? hjt

-- Harold

View BlankMan's profile

BlankMan

1487 posts in 2019 days


#20 posted 10-25-2009 11:55 PM

Harbor Freight sells it, $20 a gallon, other places do too, Auto Zone I think but I never looked. I wait till HF sends me a 20% off coupon, which they seem to do every 3-4 weeks, and then I buy it.

Once the rust is off it will rust again just like it did in the first place if not protected. Evapo Rust has a good chemical explanation of the process on their web site and why it only removes the rust and not the good metal.

It’s safe and biodegradable, you can put your hands in it’s that safe.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase