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View alittleoff's profile

Restoring a unisaw?

by alittleoff
posted 11-28-2015 03:17 AM


24 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6882 posts in 2313 days


#1 posted 11-28-2015 03:21 AM

An auto machine shop probably can’t handle blanchard grinding the top. Why are you getting new extensions? Does the saw not have any now? If not, I’d probably try to find some used wings that already have the patina – they pop up all the time over on the OWWM site.

As for the restoration… in case you haven’t stumbled across them, here are two good articles over at the VM site that discuss disassembly and restoration of the Unisaw to get you started on your journey:

Unisaw Disassembly
How to Properly Disassemble and Clean a Unisaw

And here is my discussion regarding taking apart that jet-lock fence should you want to clean it up and paint it to match the saw:

Jet Lock Fence Disassembly

Cheers,
Brad

Edit: Just saw your other post showing the saw... looks like it already has one extension wing… why not just use it and build an extension table (maybe with a router insert) for the other side?

Double edit! Heck, I just looked at that picture again and it looks like it has both extensions… why do you want to replace them?

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 1451 days


#2 posted 11-28-2015 05:30 AM

Pics or it didn’t happen. I’ve had reasonable success using wet dry sandpaper and kerosene with a wood block to purty up my unisaw when it was newish. but after fifteen years if it ain’t rust it ain’t a problem. Post some pics. :)

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10086 posts in 1600 days


#3 posted 11-28-2015 05:51 AM

Want to see mine?

Looks like doodoo but it works just fine.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 1451 days


#4 posted 11-28-2015 06:08 AM

Mine is still purtier than The Fridge’s. :)

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View KevinL's profile

KevinL

33 posts in 1465 days


#5 posted 11-28-2015 01:01 PM

If you are looking to get the top Blanchard ground, you will need to find a shop that has a Blanchard that is over twice the DIA of your table. The only way that you can do it with a smaller Blanchard is by putting a hole in the center of the part.

-- KevinL

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#6 posted 11-28-2015 01:31 PM



Want to see mine?
- TheFridge
No?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#7 posted 11-28-2015 01:31 PM


Want to see mine?
- TheFridge
Let me think…....No?

- rwe2156


-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#8 posted 11-28-2015 01:32 PM


Want to see mine?

Let me think…....No?

Sorry, couldn’t resist.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#9 posted 11-28-2015 01:32 PM

Want to see mine?
-The Fridge


NO!!

(Sorry, couldn t resist.)

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#10 posted 11-28-2015 01:33 PM

Seriously, I can’t image a top getting so warped it needed surface grinding.

Does that really happen?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#11 posted 11-28-2015 01:37 PM

edit:dup

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3068 posts in 1595 days


#12 posted 11-28-2015 01:38 PM

edit: dup

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View alittleoff's profile

alittleoff

541 posts in 1391 days


#13 posted 11-29-2015 03:51 AM

I guess I’ll just clean it as well as I can an live with it. I really wanted it to look like new when I finished with it. Thinking about it though, after a couple of years and would look old again anyway.
Thanks
Gerald

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6882 posts in 2313 days


#14 posted 11-29-2015 03:58 AM

I guess I ll just clean it as well as I can an live with it. I really wanted it to look like new when I finished with it
- alittleoff

Depending on how much effort you want to put into it, with a little bit of elbow grease, you can get a cast iron table and wings to go from looking like this:

To this:

That is a C-man table (not mine), but it’s all the same. See this thread at OWWM for details.

I don’t usually go that extreme… start with a razor to get most of the rust and gunk off, then various applications of solvents along with a scotch brite pad (put the pad under a vibrating sander to make it a bit easier). This one was in rough shape when purchasedl, and while there is still a bit of light staining, it is considerably better than it was, and with a nice coat of wax, wood slides over it just fine :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View splatman's profile

splatman

586 posts in 1513 days


#15 posted 11-29-2015 04:19 AM

Looks like any machine shop with a large enough mill could handle a TS top. The cost? A whole ‘nother ball! Then again, maybe not as much as I might think; after all it’s just making a already flat surface flatter.

View rayrobertson's profile

rayrobertson

16 posts in 3022 days


#16 posted 11-29-2015 04:50 AM



Looks like any machine shop with a large enough mill could handle a TS top. The cost? A whole nother ball! Then again, maybe not as much as I might think; after all it s just making a already flat surface flatter.

- splatman

If you’re table was in the condition as the one shown by MrUnix, I wouldn’t touch it with a milling machine. There’s no way you could get it closer in tolerance than that. The only thing that would help would be a surface grinder like the Blanchard Kevin recommended. Now if your’s looked like TheFridge, I definitely would put in on a mill. Anything would be better than that.

-- Ray, http://ozarktoolmanuals.com/ http://ozarkwoodworker.com/

View ErnestP's profile

ErnestP

14 posts in 1026 days


#17 posted 11-29-2015 06:35 PM

Block sand and patience/elbow grease. Don’t use power (belt or pad), unless you are really good.
You’ll make it all dipped and wavy. Use a slightly different directional bias for each grit change.
That allows you see the last grit scratches fade out. Ignore the deep pits (if any), smooth/level is good enough.

Wet sand past 120g, an old spray bottle of tap water, is handy.
Take it to 400g, or so, that’s far enough for a working tool.
But by all means, go for the vanity bling, if you roll that way.

Then, finally, your choice between Dri-Coat (or equivalent teflon spray) or Johnson’s paste wax.
At work, I use wax, because I won’t cry when my guys lose it. At home, Dri-Coat because I’m worth it.

Ern

View splatman's profile

splatman

586 posts in 1513 days


#18 posted 11-30-2015 02:07 AM

Looks like any machine shop with a large enough mill could handle a TS top. The cost? A whole nother ball! Then again, maybe not as much as I might think; after all it s just making a already flat surface flatter.

- splatman

If you re table was in the condition as the one shown by MrUnix, I wouldn t touch it with a milling machine. There s no way you could get it closer in tolerance than that. The only thing that would help would be a surface grinder like the Blanchard Kevin recommended. Now if your s looked like TheFridge, I definitely would put in on a mill. Anything would be better than that.

- rayrobertson

I was talking TS tops that are rust-pitted or like TheFridge’s. Of course, MrUnix’s top is fine.
I was totally unfamiliar about Blanchard machines. I did an image search just to see what they look like.

Edit: A video of a Blanchard machine in action.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10086 posts in 1600 days


#19 posted 11-30-2015 02:10 AM

The cost for mine to be ground at the one shop out of 20 that could handle it would’ve cost me 400$.

The only reason I considering it was because one of the previous owners decided to let the top potato chip.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

6882 posts in 2313 days


#20 posted 11-30-2015 02:16 AM

Come on guys :)

I had a link in my first post to where his saw was originally pictured… the top looks fine (at least to me from the photo), just needs cleaning and certainly doesn’t look like it needs any machining. Just to make things easier for everyone, here is the original picture from that thread:

And here is the link to that thread again: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/116986

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View TheTurtleCarpenter's profile

TheTurtleCarpenter

1052 posts in 1180 days


#21 posted 11-30-2015 02:29 AM

Take one of your wings off and spray glue some 80 grit wet or dry to it and use it for a sanding block. Then work your way down in grit size

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle"

View KevinL's profile

KevinL

33 posts in 1465 days


#22 posted 11-30-2015 03:43 AM

Looks like any machine shop with a large enough mill could handle a TS top. The cost? A whole nother ball! Then again, maybe not as much as I might think; after all it s just making a already flat surface flatter.

- splatman

If you re table was in the condition as the one shown by MrUnix, I wouldn t touch it with a milling machine. There s no way you could get it closer in tolerance than that. The only thing that would help would be a surface grinder like the Blanchard Kevin recommended. Now if your s looked like TheFridge, I definitely would put in on a mill. Anything would be better than that.

- rayrobertson

I was talking TS tops that are rust-pitted or like TheFridge s. Of course, MrUnix s top is fine.
I was totally unfamiliar about Blanchard machines. I did an image search just to see what they look like.

Edit: A video of a Blanchard machine in action.

- splatman


Nice video of the Blanchard, I wish I had one in my shop at the college. I have been looking for one that I can afford for the last ten years. The shop that I worked at before teaching had 4 of them form a 12” – 60”. They do a fast metal removal, then you can dress the wheel and spark the part out for that real nice surface finish. They also have a load meter that you have to watch close as the wheel starts to load up that will send parts a flying.

A Blanchard will hold a couple thou without shimming the part out which is okay for most large parts. One thing the operator has to watch out for is keeping your fingers out of the way when you put the part on the chuck. I once saw a guy that had the power on the electromag chuck…......blew his finger tips out when he had fingers under part and it sucked down to the chuck.

-- KevinL

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

1647 posts in 1912 days


#23 posted 11-30-2015 06:06 AM

If the Op gets the top ground will that screw up the miter gage height.Seems like there not much that can be removed then the Miters bar will sit proud of the top.

-- Aj

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 1345 days


#24 posted 12-07-2015 08:16 PM

AJ2
It can. If you are only taking a few thou off the table then there is no need to remill the miter slots. Should be good to .020ish.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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