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View flamingoezz's profile

Rustic Look

by flamingoezz
posted 10-13-2015 02:59 PM


18 replies so far

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

450 posts in 1113 days


#1 posted 10-13-2015 03:42 PM

For the rustic part, Google “distressed wood techniques) or similar (distressed being the key word).

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

5555 posts in 2292 days


#2 posted 10-13-2015 03:45 PM

I’ve seen somewhere here someone using a wire wheel to scuff up the surface. You could also brush the surface with a propane torch.

View flamingoezz's profile

flamingoezz

5 posts in 983 days


#3 posted 10-13-2015 03:55 PM

thanks for the suggestions. i’d be nervous to take a finished product and start hitting it with sharp or heavy things to make it look older. I was thinking of starting with old or rough lumber and finishing it so that it shows some of the character, but is still nice.

I often times see furniture pieces in high end stores that some cupping or uneven-ness to boards. It seems like they didn’t distress that in, but rather didn’t finish the imperfections out of their woodwork. Does anyone have experience with that? I’m wondering if i could use rough cut lumber to accomplish this (as it seems much less expensive than buying reclaimed nowadays).

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

450 posts in 1113 days


#4 posted 10-13-2015 07:22 PM

Distressing is an art, you’re smart not to dive into a finished piece. If you want to used cupped boards, pick out some that are plain sawn or poorly rift-saw, and kinda damp (if you’re planning to use construction lumber, such a thing will be easy to find. Otherwise, you might need to find someone who mills). They will cup as they dry most likely, the plain-sawn the most, nearly horizontal rift-sawn not as much. Exposure to weather or wear (hands, feet) and development of patina are the main two thing that make wood look old. Have you considered using hand-tools to saw and plane the wood? That gives you some latitude as to how “finished” the surface looks.

Think of the wear a 50-yr-old coffee table would endure—knocks with the vacuum, being bumped by shoes (translates to worn corners), perhaps a scrape or two. An occasional dent when something is dropped on it.

A coffee table out of rough boards is going to catch on clothing and skin unless you finish it heavily.

I’ll still encourage you to investigate the term “distressing”—not to do anything drastic (chain-beating and nail holes are so obvious), but just to get an idea of how it’s done. You can always practice on scrap.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View toddbeaulieu's profile

toddbeaulieu

814 posts in 3031 days


#5 posted 10-13-2015 07:26 PM

There are LOTs of different approaches. Rough sawn lumber is indeed a great and natural way to do this. I often incorporate knots and bark in my projects. In my projects you can see a dart board cabinet that I did just that. On that same project I used a gel stain base and then a darker gel stain that I rubbed into the cracks and joints and immediately wiped off. That adds depth. I even flicked it on with a tooth brush. You can use pallet wood. You can leave wood outside for a bit. There are various ways to dirty it up.

Every project you do should be a learning experience. Give yourself permission to try new things and accept less than perfect results. It’s how you get better. Don’t be afraid.

View TheTurtleCarpenter's profile

TheTurtleCarpenter

1051 posts in 1093 days


#6 posted 10-13-2015 08:07 PM

Rustic comes to mind as raw materials with limited tooling. Distressed would be to leave it in your kids playroom for a couple years then sand and refinish.

-- "Tying shoelaces was way harder than learning to Whistle"

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

450 posts in 1113 days


#7 posted 10-14-2015 12:25 AM



Rustic comes to mind as raw materials with limited tooling. Distressed would be to leave it in your kids playroom for a couple years then sand and refinish.

- TheTurtleCarpenter

Oooooo, great idea! One of my antiquing buddies from back when I was in the furniture business told me that, in England, “fakers” would build a pine “antique” of popular style, put it up on their roof for a winter, maybe cover it in chicken manure for a couple of weeks, and then sell it as authentic. He’s quite the story-teller, so not sure how much was true, but there was probably a kernel of truth in it. :-)

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

1981 posts in 2665 days


#8 posted 10-14-2015 04:10 PM

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

792 posts in 2426 days


#9 posted 10-14-2015 07:33 PM

This photo is a system I came up with that has worked well for me. It involves burning with a torch and wire brushing with a soft wire brush.:

Send me a message if you would like some of the details.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View rejo55's profile

rejo55

190 posts in 2269 days


#10 posted 10-14-2015 08:08 PM

You want rustic??? Hell, everything I make is rustic… even my house. Remember, though, there is a big difference between “rustic” and “crude”.

Have a good’un,
Joe

-- rejo55, East Texas

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29395 posts in 2365 days


#11 posted 10-14-2015 10:24 PM

There are many different versions of rustic. Google a rustic piece of furniture that your interested in. Narrow it down to what you like and go from there.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

450 posts in 1113 days


#12 posted 10-15-2015 04:02 AM



[Snip]Every project you do should be a learning experience. Give yourself permission to try new things and accept less than perfect results. It s how you get better. Don t be afraid.

- toddbeaulieu

So well-said. May I make it into a poster and stick it above the lathe? Seriously! :-)

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

790 posts in 1246 days


#13 posted 10-15-2015 12:15 PM

as monte said, many different versionsof rustic.
imo, the distressing thing people do where they hit the piece looks like
a piece that was hit with stuff. it doesnt look like natural wear and tear.

the rustic i do is with roughsawn lumber. build whatever it is- mainly tables for me with a sideboard or hutch occasionally- with lumber in the rough. after assembly start sanding at 100 grit only knocking down the rs some. go to 150 then 220 grit. then finish.
table tops usually get a little extra sanding.

View helluvawreck's profile

helluvawreck

31393 posts in 2893 days


#14 posted 10-15-2015 02:41 PM

We used to do some distressing with a sandblaster. It takes a little practice and a light fast touch. However, it has a certain look that appeals to a good number of people.

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

-- helluvawreck aka Charles, http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com

View flamingoezz's profile

flamingoezz

5 posts in 983 days


#15 posted 10-15-2015 02:53 PM

@tomsteve—that is exactly what I’m looking at doing. I bought some rough sawn ash yesterday.

I think I’m going to start with the tabletop. Plan on planing one face of each board to get a square surface to work off, and hopefully theres not too much cupping/warping so the top will be within a light/medium sanding of being somewhat flat and i can keep some character of the original rough saw lines. Any tips for working in this manner?

Also, when i cut my tabletop for length, anything i can do to give it some of the roughness back? I don’t think I’m good enough to cut it with a handsaw. Maybe I can glue them all up and use a jig saw instead of a finer saw.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2252 posts in 2473 days


#16 posted 10-15-2015 03:15 PM

There’s a lot of trial and error involved to make a fresh piece of wood look old,I do admit I’m a novice myself but for what it’s worth , these are the tools I use:
Paraffin /candle to embellish the worn look in heavy traffic spots(handles/door knobs, etc.), a Rivet to create the round nail holes(with the pin cut short), brass wire brush (to lightly scratch the rough sawn wood I use), dark stains make all the scratches and nail hole to stand out.
I also use an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc to create typical round saw marks.

To create wormholes /small pin holes, you can hit the stock with a welding wire brush (a few times on the same spot),I would avoid using chains to create dents,a ball pein hammer does a much better job.
Minwax 271 Classic Grey stain will give you that old grey “weathered” look that you typically see with old Pine.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View tomsteve's profile

tomsteve

790 posts in 1246 days


#17 posted 10-15-2015 08:41 PM


There are LOTs of different approaches. Rough sawn lumber is indeed a great and natural way to do this. I often incorporate knots and bark in

@tomsteve—that is exactly what I m looking at doing. I bought some rough sawn ash yesterday.

I think I m going to start with the tabletop. Plan on planing one face of each board to get a square surface to work off, and hopefully theres not too much cupping/warping so the top will be within a light/medium sanding of being somewhat flat and i can keep some character of the original rough saw lines. Any tips for working in this manner?

Also, when i cut my tabletop for length, anything i can do to give it some of the roughness back? I don t think I m good enough to cut it with a handsaw. Maybe I can glue them all up and use a jig saw instead of a finer saw.

- flamingoezz

i think the best piece of advise is remeber imperfect will be perfect. it wont all be perfectly square and surfaces of any boards that meet up( like flr the top) wont plane across perfectly. what i do js just build it. then after its built sand to my liking.
for the ends of the boards lf ya want roughness a chainsaw works real good.
but personally i dont worry about the ends. on some projects i cut the ends with my circ saw and a 24 tooth blade or my table saw or miter saw with a 40 tooth blade and leave that finish on em.

View Joel_B's profile

Joel_B

342 posts in 1408 days


#18 posted 10-16-2015 01:14 AM

I agree this kind of finishing is an art and takes a lot of experimentation.
I am currently building some nightstands and my wife wanted a specific rustic look that uses white paint.
I am building it out of white oak. After some experimentation I ended up starting with Watco Danish Oil, let it dry completely and then paint with GF milk paint antique white, then sand of the paint to partially expose the the wood and then finish it all with WB flat poly:

I am just learning to use cabinet scraper and watched a video where they use one to smooth a finish. I tried it on this piece and it worked like a charm, much better and faster than sandpaper.

-- Joel, Encinitas, CA

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