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View shepwood's profile

Lathe Coffee tables, FINISHES?

by shepwood
posted 02-25-2015 08:11 PM


26 replies so far

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#1 posted 02-26-2015 01:32 AM

I assume your talking Lath not Lathe. A picture of what the table looks like would be helpfull along with the lath material?

One suggestion is to flame distress the lath with a torch and then poly.

Would this be something like what your trying to do?

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#2 posted 02-26-2015 02:54 AM

Yes, lath. My phone changed it to lathe. When you say flame distress what do you mean? I don’t know if that would be effective because the lath is already dark in color. I am still in the planning phases. Have not started yet. Will be starting this weekend.

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#3 posted 02-26-2015 03:08 AM

You use a Torch to lightly scorch the wood with the flame which brings out the grain of the wood. After that you can use a wire brush to blend or remove some of the scorched wood or not.

It is all subjective to you personal taste. Some people even stain the wood then let it dry and then use a torch and wire brush.

Experiment with it on scrap to develope your own method.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#4 posted 02-26-2015 03:14 AM

Huh yea ill try it, then use a poly?

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#5 posted 02-26-2015 03:32 AM

Poly is just one thing you could use but IMHO it would level out the surface much better at a more reasonable price. If you use gloss poly it will act much like a magnifying glass to bring out the grains and differences in the wood as it does not have as much filler in it.

Again all of this is subjective, driven by personal taste and perceived results. Experiment on scrape.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View oltexasboy1's profile

oltexasboy1

250 posts in 1822 days


#6 posted 02-26-2015 03:39 AM

This months issue of popular woodworking has a great article by Bob Flexner, he has a really good book on finishing “Finishing 101” available on Amazon. He explains that the manufactures of most of the finishes that people use , don’t have a clue as to how they should really be used.Try the website below, just enter your email and you should be able to download a 25 page finishing guide that is very helpful.If it don’t work let me know and I will put in the cloud for you.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/wood-finishing-techniques

-- "The pursuit of perfection often yields excellence"

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 1340 days


#7 posted 02-26-2015 04:01 AM

I’m having a hard time, the only lath I know of is really crappy 3/8”x1.5”x ?” lengths used for old style plaster work. Have you considered 2X framing lumber you could rip down to manageable dims? Whatever mat you choose you could also hit it with an orbital sander and 40 or 60 grit paper for a rough/rustic look.

-- I meant to do that!

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#8 posted 02-26-2015 06:22 AM

You could also use decent ceiling strapping if you can find it.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#9 posted 02-26-2015 10:03 PM

Just got my april copy of Popular Woodworking and on page 40 they show another finish they call a charred finish using a good finishing wax and a torch. Very cool rich black look.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#10 posted 04-08-2015 08:13 PM

So it’s been a while since I posted but this is the table, I’m making matching end tables to go with it. It’s a little rough, however I do not want to go sanding the top and get rid of the the old look that it has.

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shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#11 posted 04-08-2015 08:14 PM

View mrg's profile

mrg

828 posts in 3117 days


#12 posted 04-08-2015 08:32 PM

Nice table.

-- mrg

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#13 posted 04-08-2015 08:42 PM

Looks awesome.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#14 posted 04-08-2015 09:12 PM

Just what to finish it with now!?

View GregD's profile

GregD

788 posts in 3254 days


#15 posted 04-08-2015 09:33 PM

I would be concerned that the trim at the table ends will constrain the expansion/contraction of the top and cause problems.

-- Greg D.

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#16 posted 04-08-2015 10:50 PM

I’m not sure how much this is going to be expanding and contracting, it’s a coffee table so it’s going to be in a house, and I used 150 ur old lath so I’d imagine it’s fairly stable at this point. You have to think, if it expanded and contracted at all while it was on the wall or cieling it would have cracked the plaster all over the wall and I saw no evidence of that

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shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#17 posted 04-09-2015 08:35 PM

This is a better picture of the top. Looking for something to sort of level it out some but I don’t want a glossy look to it I was thinking satin poly but even that is a little to glossy for me

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1240 posts in 2112 days


#18 posted 04-09-2015 08:58 PM

As seasons change, the wood changes. Regardless of how old it is, I believe it will always try and equilibrate to ambient conditions, which may mean expanding and contracting.

What about just a danish oil?

-Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#19 posted 04-09-2015 09:14 PM

How about matte poly? Or put on a coat of satin then over coat it with matte. Or sand down the satin with 1000 to 1200 wet/dry with water or mineral spirts to take the gloss off, then wax. Many ways to peal a apple.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#20 posted 04-09-2015 09:24 PM

I may try the matte poly, how do you think that will cover with the roughness of the wood? And thoughts on a clear laquer finish sprayed on?

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pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#21 posted 04-09-2015 09:43 PM

Matte finish has more filler in it to make matte, downside; it will not be as transparent. Satin also has fillers in it to make satin but has better for clarity, but, not as clear as gloss which has very little or no filler.

Some use gloss or satin over coated with matte to cut the sheer, others use gloss and dull it back by sanding.

Same applies to Lacquer, but many think Lacquer is not as good for tables. You can get a good build with Lacquer.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#22 posted 04-09-2015 09:47 PM

Haha this is a pain! So if you were doing this, what would you use

View pjones46's profile

pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#23 posted 04-09-2015 10:04 PM

Use the satin poly and dull it down after by using wet/dry paper method. Then apply a good coat of clear paste wax such as Staples bowling alley wax.

-- Respectfully, Paul

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shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#24 posted 04-09-2015 10:41 PM

And that would give me what kind of finish? A tiny bit glossy yet clear finish?

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pjones46

1001 posts in 2760 days


#25 posted 04-09-2015 11:05 PM

A Clearer finish than matte with a duller finish than that of satin. Try it on some scrap to see if it suits your situation. You shoud always try anything you pick on scrap and then chose one of the finishing processes which suits your taste each time you finish a project. Alot easier to adjust on scrape vs on the project after the fact.

-- Respectfully, Paul

View shepwood's profile

shepwood

12 posts in 1657 days


#26 posted 04-09-2015 11:31 PM

Just for the simplicity of it I’ll try using just a satin first and see how that goes on some scrap

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