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View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

Help for Sears Craftsmen 10 in table saw 113 series

by WalkerTexasRanger
posted 11-06-2014 03:03 AM


28 replies so far

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

384 posts in 1741 days


#1 posted 11-06-2014 03:10 AM

There are many different models of the 113. The first thing you should do is take the blade off and lay it flat to see if you actually warped the blade.
The 113 have a table mounted trunion and there are 2 bolts on the front trunion and 2 on the back.
You need to loosen them just enough to allow you to align the blade to the miter slot.
There are mayn videos onlint that show you how to do this.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

View camps764's profile

camps764

867 posts in 2383 days


#2 posted 11-06-2014 03:12 AM

You’ll have to loosen the trunions under the top to square the blade to the miter slots. Its not terribly hard, but it’s kind of a pain in the butt. Totally worth it order the table saw PALS system that fits your table saw in my opinion. I would also recommend reaching out to KnottScott on this forum…he is the resident table saw expert.

-- Steve

View Case101's profile

Case101

107 posts in 1816 days


#3 posted 11-06-2014 03:26 AM

What is the full model number?
I maybe able to help as I have a 113

-- John, New Jersey

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#4 posted 11-06-2014 02:02 PM

113.27521. Thanks WTR

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2935 posts in 2196 days


#5 posted 11-06-2014 02:05 PM

You need to unlock tilt adjustment wheel before trying to move the trunnion. The tilt lock will prevent the trunnion from moving.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#6 posted 11-06-2014 02:17 PM

Steve and John, Thanks. I am fairly new to this. Let me describe what I’ve already tried. I loosened what I thought are the trunion bolts. These bolts are machined into the bottom side of the saw table top. Are you saying that there is some “play” in the bolt holes of the trunion that will give me some slight alignment? Thanks WTR

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#7 posted 11-06-2014 02:26 PM

What a great blog site!!!! Thanks everyone. The last blog I was on was useless. Now that I feel like I’ve found some expertise; let me explain my other question. I received this saw from my uncle who was an excellent craftsman.He was disabled that last few years of his life so it has not been used regularly for some time. Someone has inserted a belt tightening bolt and slide on the motor mount to provide additional tension to the belt. Is this necessary or causing further harm? I thought the weight of the motor would/should provide sufficient tension. My main problem is that my saw blade is binding up when I rip anything longer than 12”. On closer inspection, I presumed that the binding was caused by the blade being “off square.” Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks, WTR

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

9606 posts in 1509 days


#8 posted 11-06-2014 02:51 PM

The weight of the motor should be plenty. The belt might be a lil bigger than it should maybe?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1643 posts in 2656 days


#9 posted 11-06-2014 02:51 PM

I doubt the belt tension is the issue (but make sure the motor and trunnion pulleys are aligned) The blade and/or fence is probably out of square.
If you loosen the trunnion bolts, this will give you a tiny amount of “wiggle room” to move the blade/trunnion in square with the miter slot. In my experience, its better to leave the bolts snug(ish) while adjusting. Loosening the bolts too much just encourages the trunnion to move around while you re-torque the bolts. Once done, you can square the fence to the miter slot or the blade.
If this saw has the stock, entry level fence….keeping it square to the blade is a never-ending adventure.

View Case101's profile

Case101

107 posts in 1816 days


#10 posted 11-06-2014 02:51 PM

Here is a link to the manual Here is another

-- John, New Jersey

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#11 posted 11-06-2014 02:55 PM

Now that you bring it up …. the fence is old and loose. I usually end up blocking and clamping the fence down to prevent it from moving. I didn’t know if the teeth in the fence were worn out and sloppy or if the teeth on the table top rail or worn out and sloppy. Any advice on that?

View Case101's profile

Case101

107 posts in 1816 days


#12 posted 11-06-2014 03:00 PM

Are you trying to revive the saw because of it’s history in your family?
Wondering if you maybe better off searching around and looking into getting a new saw?
CL maybe a start.

-- John, New Jersey

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#13 posted 11-06-2014 03:04 PM

I have had the same thoughts!!!! It’s too big for a paperweight and too small for desk. I’ll try this adjustment first. What is “CL”?

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#14 posted 11-06-2014 03:05 PM

And, thanks for the manual link. I’ve been trying to find one.

View David_H's profile

David_H

90 posts in 1341 days


#15 posted 11-06-2014 03:37 PM

CL is craigslist. Do yourself a favor and get the Pals. They will have you a whole lot of headache.
You can get them here: http://www.amazon.com/PALS-CTS-alignment-kit/dp/B0036B0V22/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1415287902&sr=8-12&keywords=Pals

I would also look for a better fence, liek this one:
http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-36-T30-30-Inch-Fence-System/dp/B000H0R1S2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1415288201&sr=8-7&keywords=table+saw+fence

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

20216 posts in 2707 days


#16 posted 11-06-2014 03:45 PM

One tip I found out while doing this:

Only loosen THREE bolts. Leave the one closest to the right front ( on mine, it is almost right behind the on-off switch) leave that as a reference. After re torque-ing the other three, do a recheck of the fourth. I had to add star type lockwashers, to keep things in place when done. That way, things stay put.

OEM fence on mine. Redid the locking rod. Might check that plastic wheel under the motor end of the fence, as these tend to wear badly. You might be able to replace that little wheel with a metal one? The “angle iron” rails it rides on can get a bit loose and move around, too. Place a straight edge along them to check for straightness. Top of the rails should just clear the bottom of the mitre slots, so the mitre gauge doesn’t hit it on the way through. Same with the front rail.

I also leave the plate/insert in place, to make sure that the blade will clear the insert. You could even use it’s slot to get the blade roughly in the center.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#17 posted 11-06-2014 03:48 PM

Thanks, Bandit 751. Good ideas. W

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2935 posts in 2196 days


#18 posted 11-06-2014 04:18 PM

I fought with that stock fence on mine for years. Would measure from miter slot front and rear to fence to get it square with blade only to have it move after a few cuts. about 2 years ago I replace the fence with a Delta T2 that actually made a pretty good saw out of it. It will make consistitently square cuts now. No more fence movement.
Bandit gave you good idea on only loosening 3 bolts. You definitely have to unlock the tilt screw lock. to get the trunnion to move.
Just looked at the PALS that DavidH recommended for the price they look pretty good. My trunion is aligned now so don’t need them but they would sure simplify aligning things.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View David_H's profile

David_H

90 posts in 1341 days


#19 posted 11-06-2014 04:38 PM

Just looked at the PALS that DavidH recommended for the price they look pretty good. My trunion is aligned now so don t need them but they would sure simplify aligning things.

- johnstoneb

Yeah, they aren’t cheap, especially for what they are (two pieces of Aluminum angle iron, a couple locking nuts. bolts and hex screws). They can and have been made on the cheap but if you are not so inclined its the best way to go. One thing to remember is that even if you square now, trunnions can come out of alignment. The pals will prevent that as long as you have them on.

View Don Broussard's profile

Don Broussard

3569 posts in 2275 days


#20 posted 11-06-2014 05:22 PM

+1 to the PALS kit (or a homemade version). I used them on my C’man 113.298240 saw and they really saved a lot of aggravation with holding their positions during alignment. I also used Bandit’s technique of only loosening three bolts and pivoting on the fourth one.

-- People say I hammer like lightning. It's not that I'm fast -- it's that I never hit the same place twice!

View 6mmBR's profile

6mmBR

28 posts in 1359 days


#21 posted 11-06-2014 06:37 PM

I have the same saw, 113.27520, and the fence is just terrible. I recently replaced it with a Vega and it’s unreal how much better it is. Move it, clamp it, dead square each time.

With the standard fence, it was move it, measure it, measure again, move it again, go back and check the other end, etc. It never ended, each cut was like this. You could eventually get it square, until you had to move it again.

I gave up, and bought the aftermarket fence.

So far, I haven’t had any trouble with the alignment, but I’ll keep those PALS kits in mind in case it happens.

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#22 posted 11-06-2014 06:48 PM

I read somewhere there are different versions of the 113. I must have the more difficult version of the 113. There are three bolts on each trunion which bolt up into the bottom side of the table. The back three are fairly easy access. The front three are hidden behind the front panel of the saw housing. (Oh well. I have about all the character I need for a while.)

6mmBR, which Vega fence did you purchase?

View David_H's profile

David_H

90 posts in 1341 days


#23 posted 11-06-2014 07:02 PM

I have had two 113 saws one from the 80’s and another from teh 60’s, both had the aluminum 3 hole trunnions. I think the Vega’s are largely the same as far as the fence the differentiation is the length of the rails.

View WalkerTexasRanger's profile

WalkerTexasRanger

29 posts in 1322 days


#24 posted 11-07-2014 05:08 PM

Thank you for all your help. After a few scraped knuckles (and then my 220 line kept tripping for unrelated reasons), I’m back in business. This is a great blog. Thank you very much. WTR

View toolie's profile

toolie

2134 posts in 2652 days


#25 posted 11-08-2014 08:50 PM

*https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t9313/*

for future reference, the linked OM will work for your aw. the 113 series c-man saws were built by emerson electric in the USA and sold through sears and sold as ridgid power tools. inside, they are the same tool.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View 6mmBR's profile

6mmBR

28 posts in 1359 days


#26 posted 11-09-2014 01:36 AM



I read somewhere there are different versions of the 113. I must have the more difficult version of the 113. There are three bolts on each trunion which bolt up into the bottom side of the table. The back three are fairly easy access. The front three are hidden behind the front panel of the saw housing. (Oh well. I have about all the character I need for a while.)

6mmBR, which Vega fence did you purchase?

- WalkerTexasRanger

WTR, I bought the Vega Pro 40. It bolted right onto the front edge of the saw. I did have to drill two holes in the back edge, but that was no problem at all. It gives me 40” to the right of the blade, and 10” to the left. In fact, it will also cover my router extension so the one fence can do double duty. Well worth it.

View NJ_Dan's profile

NJ_Dan

1 post in 452 days


#27 posted 03-24-2017 01:09 AM

I have a Sears/Craftsman 10 inch table saw that was my fathers. Has to be from the the late 70’s early 80’s. I would like to start using it as a tribute but it needs a rip fence. My problem is I cannot find what model it is for the life of me. The face plate does not show any model whatsoever.

So i ask: 1, am I missing something obvious? 2, what is a good reasonably priced fence for this saw? It has a 27” top.

Thanks

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1763 posts in 2883 days


#28 posted 03-24-2017 02:59 AM

NJ_Dan your saw is certainly in the 113 family. Those saws were essentially the same for decades…

You should have no significant problem putting a Delta T3 fence on this saw and that is probably the best value option. You can find one for a bit over $200 at Home Depot Online

Good Luck!

Be Carful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

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