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Lower wheel adjustment Rikon 10-325

by Sandra
posted 02-10-2014 01:05 AM


40 replies so far

View lightcs1776's profile

lightcs1776

4180 posts in 1493 days


#1 posted 02-10-2014 01:09 AM

Personally, I’d call Rikon to inquire about using a link belt. They should be able to give you the best answer.

-- Chris ** If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace. — Tom Paine **

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JL7

8603 posts in 2804 days


#2 posted 02-10-2014 01:16 AM

So it’s a flat belt, not a v-belt? The link belt would replace a v-belt…...

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

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boxcarmarty

15038 posts in 2199 days


#3 posted 02-10-2014 01:21 AM

Sandra, Check the alignment of your pulleys, the motor pulley in particular. Make sure the key has not slipped and your pulley is walking causing it to throw your belt…..

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

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JL7

8603 posts in 2804 days


#4 posted 02-10-2014 01:22 AM

Pictures?? you know the rules…...

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#5 posted 02-10-2014 01:24 AM

Okay, going to get some pictures. Stand by.

You’ll all have to talk very…. slowly….. while you guys were taking apart ‘trannies’ I was learning to sew…

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19396 posts in 2514 days


#6 posted 02-10-2014 01:29 AM

Sandra,
Bummer on the problems.
As far as the belt….
NO, you can’t use a link belt. You can only use a “Multyi-Vee” belt.
Whether those are available from a secondary supplier, I do not know.
I doubt that it is a proprietary belt design/length, but one never knows.

I haven’t played with adjusting the lower wheel, so no advice except….
If you do make adjustments, of course read the manual & search the internet for guidance, then….
1) make very minor adjustments, I mean miniscule (1/8 turn of nut at a time, check outcome)....
2) Only ONE adjustment at a time….
3) Make a record of what adjustments you will do, before you do them!!! This way you won’t forget, and will be able to “undo”, if needed.

Good luck!
Wish I could be of more help…..

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

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boxcarmarty

15038 posts in 2199 days


#7 posted 02-10-2014 01:32 AM

Jeff, I think we’re too late. Randy broke it…..

-- My mind is like lighting, one brilliant flash, then its gone.....

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Dave

11426 posts in 2679 days


#8 posted 02-10-2014 01:34 AM

This one I know zilch about.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

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JL7

8603 posts in 2804 days


#9 posted 02-10-2014 01:34 AM

And Sandra is talking about trannies…..

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#10 posted 02-10-2014 01:36 AM

1st picture – lower wheel – blade tracking too far forward

2nd pic – upper wheel, blade gullets in center

3rd picture – pulleys on lower wheel

4th picture – damaged belt

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#11 posted 02-10-2014 01:39 AM

Thanks Randy – I was hoping you’d chime in as a fellow Rikon owner. Good to know about the link belt. I found the Rikon instructions about adjustment, I just hope there’s nothing else I’m missing that I should do first.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Mark E.'s profile

Mark E.

387 posts in 3581 days


#12 posted 02-10-2014 01:43 AM

Don’t have the 10-325, but I do have the smaller 10-305, 10”.

I had to adjust the bottom (drive) wheel on mine after installing the Carter Stabilizer. The adjustments are very straightforward and pretty simple. Take your time and adjust in small increments and you will be just fine.

Here is a pdf from Rikon that walks you through the process.

-- Mark

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JL7

8603 posts in 2804 days


#13 posted 02-10-2014 01:43 AM

Cool….you got some good answers…..Good luck!

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#14 posted 02-10-2014 01:44 AM

Thanks folks. It’s on the to-do list for tomorrow. Will let you know.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Mark E.'s profile

Mark E.

387 posts in 3581 days


#15 posted 02-10-2014 01:45 AM

What am I looking at in your 4th picture?

Is that belt inside out?

-- Mark

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19396 posts in 2514 days


#16 posted 02-10-2014 01:45 AM

What exactly is the “belt damage”???
Are the “Vees” worn?
Is the side fraying?
Is the back cracking?

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#17 posted 02-10-2014 01:53 AM

Mark – it very well could be… it was twisted at one point, and I wasn’t sure I had it back on right – are the ridges that run perpendicular to the belt length supposed to be on the inside???? (oops)

Randy – one edge is a bit frayed and ‘stretched’ looking

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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DIYaholic

19396 posts in 2514 days


#18 posted 02-10-2014 01:58 AM

It looks like the belt IS installed correctly, the “Vee”s, that run the length of the belt, go inside & ride on the “vee”-d pulleys. The ridges on the backside of the belt give it the flexibility to go around the pulleys. I hope I described that well enough.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

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DIYaholic

19396 posts in 2514 days


#19 posted 02-10-2014 02:03 AM

My guess is, that at one time the belt was installed “off center” on one of the pulleys….
That caused it to rub somewhere & wear/fray the side.
I would adjust the lower wheel tracking & replace the belt (new belt), being sure the belt is “centered” properly.
Just my feeble brain, thinking out loud!!!
Good luck.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View William's profile

William

9949 posts in 2681 days


#20 posted 02-10-2014 02:06 AM

I wish I could help, but I have no experience with that saw.
I also hate multi rib belts for this very reason. If something is off once upon a time, it can screw the belt up for future use.
The only tool I own that has a multi rib belt is my ridgid table saw. If anything ever happens to it, I am changing pulleys and installing a link belt.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

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lumberjoe

2894 posts in 2087 days


#21 posted 02-10-2014 02:12 AM

Perfect timing! I am having the EXACT same problem with my 10-320. Belt falling off and lower wheel tracking is too far forward after a day of heavy resawing.

Let me know how you make out. I am ordering a new belt tomorrow. A link belt won’t work on this saw.

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

View Mark E.'s profile

Mark E.

387 posts in 3581 days


#22 posted 02-10-2014 02:22 AM

Randy is correct. The belt does look like it is installed correctly. The ridges going side to side on the belt should be on the outside. This is the way the belt is installed on my 10-305. Sorry for the confusion.

-- Mark

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DocSavage45

8379 posts in 2681 days


#23 posted 02-10-2014 02:31 AM

Don’t know about this band saw. Do know that pullys out of alignment can stresss any belt. The PDF and instruction booklet should have some information about belt replacement.

Call tech support, and ask if it is not going well.

Grizzly’s site has video’s on alignment etc. Most band saws have same or similar parts.

Good luck.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19396 posts in 2514 days


#24 posted 02-10-2014 02:33 AM

On the Lower wheel adjustment PDF, they don’t mention the “lock nut”, that secures the “shaft bolt”....
To loosed the “shaft bolt”, you do not necessarily need to loosen the “lock nut”....
However, to adjust/tighten the opposite “shaft bolt”, you must first loosen the “lock nut” on that “shaft bolt”.

So, loosen “shaft bolt 12”...
Loosen “locking nut 6”...
TIGHTEN “shaft bolt 6”...
Tighten BOTH “locking nuts”!!!

Does that make sense???

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

7483 posts in 2639 days


#25 posted 02-10-2014 03:06 AM

Man, I would love to help. But even though I have the same saw, I have had no problem with it. I have had issues with band saws in the past, but always an issue with the blade tracking on the wheels, never the belt. Belts tend to stay on, in my experience. If they are coming off, or burning, it sounds like a pulley alignment issue. But it looks like Randy has you covered on that. Hope it works out. If not, you can sell your Festool setup and get a new saw. I’ll give you a hundred bucks for it! :)

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications: http://www.stumpynubs.com/

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#26 posted 02-10-2014 11:05 AM

Funny Stumpy,

Thanks so much folks. This gives me enough info, with the PDF to give it a try. I’ll let you know how I make out later today.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#27 posted 02-10-2014 03:22 PM

Just spoke with Rod from Rikin CS- he suggested I change the blade first to see if the resaw blade was deflecting the lower wheel.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View RogerM's profile

RogerM

786 posts in 2238 days


#28 posted 02-10-2014 04:06 PM

Sandra – I have the same saw and have had the same problem. A quick call to the Rikon people ended in them sending me a new belt which resolved the issue. Turns out that the multi V belts are very sensitive and almost any damage to them will result in tracking issues. On the lower wheel tracking issue my thoughts are, don’t touch it. From what I have read on the subject most articles strongly recommend against messing with the lower wheel. I believe that you will find that it is not critical that the blade tracks in the center of the lower wheel. Bottom line, give Rikon a call and get you a couple of new belts.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

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Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#29 posted 02-11-2014 02:19 AM

I changed blades and lowered the tension. The belt stayed on longer but was still walking. I also took a good look at the belt and found a vertical slice all the way trough a part of it.

So I called Rikon and they are sending me a new belt free of charge. I’ll try that first. I also noticed after I changed blades that the entire lower guide assembly was very close to the blade so I adjusted that as well. I made some straight cuts with the smaller blade, but the belt started to slip again.

Owning a bandsaw has certainly been a learning experience. I didn’t realize until I owned one how complex of a machine it was.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View JL7's profile

JL7

8603 posts in 2804 days


#30 posted 02-11-2014 02:24 AM

Great to hear that Rikon is helping out…....but honestly, the band saw shouldn’t be considered a burden of a tool to maintain…..hope it all comes together for you, because it’s such a great addition to the shop…...

It will…........

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

19396 posts in 2514 days


#31 posted 02-11-2014 02:46 AM

Good to hear that Rikon is “takin’ care of business”....
Standing by their product & providing good customer service!

As a Rikon owner, it does me good to hear that they are a standup company!!!

Sorry that you are being forced to get an education….
Hope your issues get resolved quickly!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#32 posted 02-11-2014 02:59 AM

Thanks guys. I think the fact that my bandsaw is on a mobile base and often gets moved may be an issue with keeping it tuned up. We shall see. Even with all of this, I still love having a bandsaw.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View JL7's profile

JL7

8603 posts in 2804 days


#33 posted 02-11-2014 03:09 AM

I don’t think the mobile base is an issue….......they are designed to be rigid….....and moved…...

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#34 posted 02-11-2014 03:32 AM

Good to know Jeff, thanks

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2529 days


#35 posted 02-12-2014 02:08 AM

Sandra, Are your pullys lined up with each other? Are they moving on the shaft? (loose/missing set screw?)

The only way I can see that belt getting damaged like that is by climbing up on one side of one of the pullys.

Just don’t want the loose? pully to eat the new belt!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#36 posted 02-12-2014 02:14 AM

Thanks Andy – I’ll take a look.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View patron's profile

patron

13593 posts in 3180 days


#37 posted 02-12-2014 04:18 PM

some pulley shafts have a flat spot
to tighten the set screws too
some even have a dimple in them for that

all will slide back and forth
on the shaft
if the tip of the set screw gets worn
or just spin on the shaft

it looks like you have a tensioning arm
with a pulley on it too
(from what i can see)
it just adds more possible ways for the pulleys to be out of line
it could even be ‘twisted’ slightly
making the belt strained too

take off the lower wheel
if you need to be sure of all the pulleys
being in line and tight to their shafts

as andy said
don’t want the new belt to suffer too

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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a1Jim

116590 posts in 3416 days


#38 posted 02-12-2014 10:29 PM

This Video does not address your belt issue but it covers just about everything else dealing with band saws once you get yours back up and running. The best I’ve seen on the subject.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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DrDirt

4414 posts in 3581 days


#39 posted 02-12-2014 10:42 PM

Agree Jim –
Alex is tops on this… he points out to ignore tracking on the lower wheel – it is largely irrelevant so long as it isn’t f

He covers this in jims video at 5:57. You DO NOT want the wheels to be coplaner.

What is key is the alignment of the blade on the top wheel and the upper guides “the part controlling what your wood will see”
The rest of the path of the blade is irrelevant to how it is cutting at the table. European band saws have no lower guides

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

7176 posts in 1914 days


#40 posted 02-13-2014 01:28 AM

Thanks guys. Waiting for the new belt to arrive.

Jim, thanks for the link, I have that one already bookmarked and have watched it several times. The guy is a great teacher.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

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