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View WayneC's profile

Sharpening

by WayneC
posted 2650 days ago


22 replies so far

View oscorner's profile

oscorner

4564 posts in 2906 days


#1 posted 2650 days ago

I’ve found the easiest for me by far is the scary sharp system. This system uses varying grits of sandpaper on a flat surface(can be tile, plexiglass, etc). I use spray adhesive to attach which makes the changeout easy when the sandpaper wears out. I start with 150, 300, 400 and end with 600 grit. Now it is not always necessary to go through all of them everytime. There’s no danger of sparks from a grinder and the learning curve is short. My paper is mounted on a cheeze slicer with the slicer removed. I’ve tried regular, emery and wet/dry sandpaper and find that the regular works best for quick removal of metal and the emery is best to polish up. The wet/dry is o.k. If you have not tried it, do so, you’ll be glad you did. This system made it very easy when flattening the soles of my planes, too.

I was using a grinder and had three different stone grits to sharpen with, but haven’t used them since I tried the scary sharp way.

-- Jesus is Lord!

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2675 days


#2 posted 2650 days ago

Hi Wayne

I have all “army” of water stones from 800 to 8,000 but I don’t use them so much.

As you know, my power is not with words but with pictures so here is my method.

Regards
niki

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View FMOmbr's profile

FMOmbr

47 posts in 2680 days


#3 posted 2650 days ago

Hi Wayne – I started several years ago using Japanese water stones. I stopped using them partially because of the mess, but mostly because I seemed to spend more time flattening and conditioning them.

I have also used the scary system – in which I mounted various grits of cloth backed paper to a sheet of 1/4” plate glass using a spray adhesive. I abandoned this method for general iron and chisel sharpening. However, I still use it for dressing the soles of my planes.

For the past several years, I have been using the diamond stone sharpening, with a Veritas fixture to hold the irons and chisels. I work through the series of grits for both the primary angle and the secondary bevel (accomodated by the Veritas fixture). Once I have completed the series of grits, I use a modified scary system with 1500 grit wet/dry paper to polish both the front and back of the surface that I’m sharpening. This has worked great for me.

I made several fixtures – one to set the iron into the Veritas fixture (to set the correct angle) and another for holding my mortising chisels (to address the fact that the shafts on these chisels are not flat and don’t hold tight in the Veritas fixture). This assures that I hold the angle through all cuts and that the angle is exactly what I want.

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2756 days


#4 posted 2650 days ago

this is a great forum topic!!!

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (https://www.facebook.com/DebbiePribeleENJOConsultant)

View Dick, & Barb Cain's profile

Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 2895 days


#5 posted 2650 days ago

You can’t use a guide-holder with my carving gouges because they’re curved. I have a 600 grit diamond hone. Then I apply a very fine silicone carbide powder to my leather strop with vaseline rubbed in. They end up with an ultra shiny, & sharp finish.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1467 posts in 2720 days


#6 posted 2650 days ago

I was just up in Oregon, where I visited Jerry Work. He happened to be finishing up some writing on the Work Sharp sharpener, and showed it off. Now I want more hand tools so that I can justify one.

The sandpaper is just attached to either spinning glass disks for flat cutters or disks with holes in them for curved cutters. The jig which holds the correct angle is underneath the spinning disk, so that, when you’re sharpeneing curved cutters, you can look down through the disk to see the angle you’re putting on your tool. And while you’d need to buy their consumables for the curved blades (because of the holes), for flat edges you can rub ‘em with whatever materials you’d like, just use a little spray adhesive.

I’ve been a DMT diamond stone fan up ‘til now, but that cool little beastie seemed like the perfect price point (I believe under $200), feature set and size. And it costs a heck of a lot less than a full set of DMT stones.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2693 days


#7 posted 2649 days ago

Lots of good info. Thanks.

I have a few questions.

Niki, the sander looks like it would work well. How do you flatten and polish the back of the blade?

Dick, do you have to have different profile hones for different profile gouges?

Any recommendations for sources for sandpaper. The big boxes seem to be lacking.

Also, a similar question for Scary Sharp users. How do you flatten and polish the back of the blade?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2693 days


#8 posted 2649 days ago

I did some looking on the web. Info on the Work Sharp Sharpener can be found at this link. Thanks for pointing this tool out Dan.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Dollarbill's profile

Dollarbill

91 posts in 2733 days


#9 posted 2649 days ago

Wayne, I have had the Tormex System for about 6 years and I love it. I even use it to make spare change (and friends).

If I had it to do over again, I would look close at the Jet because of the two speed motor.

Bill

-- Make Dust

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2693 days


#10 posted 2649 days ago

My uncle has the Tormex and loves it as well. I’ll have to check out the Jet. I did not realize it has dual speeds. A machine like this is on my wish list, but down the list a ways.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Douglas Bordner's profile

Douglas Bordner

3960 posts in 2659 days


#11 posted 2649 days ago

http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/wafish.html

Here is a link to Mirka wet/dry sandpaper- they are a Yahoo store. You can pick up a granite tool room slab at Veritas and Grizzly and just use water to mount the paper for scary sharpening. If you have a local automotive finish supply, they usually have great wet-dry paper in grits up to P4000, and Abralon pads, which are the bomb for rubbing out finishes.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

View coloradoclimber's profile

coloradoclimber

548 posts in 2663 days


#12 posted 2648 days ago

I’ve used oil stones and the scary sharp, never water stones. Now I’m using the DMT diamond stones and I really like those a lot. They seem to work well for me to get my tools sharp and I really like the ease of clean up. Water instead of oil. Rinse the stones when done, pat most of the water off, let them air dry, then put them away.

1 – I seem to be able to get my tools sharp, shave the arm hair and all that
2 – they are easy to store, use, and clean up, no oil or water baths

View Hawgnutz's profile

Hawgnutz

526 posts in 2672 days


#13 posted 2648 days ago

Thanks for starting the forum! I like my diamond stones and jig for sharpening my chisels and plane irons. But what is the best way to sharpen jointer blades? They are too wide to fit into the jig I use for my chisels.
Thanks.
God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards

View photonic's profile

photonic

17 posts in 2662 days


#14 posted 2647 days ago

I used to use stones but then I switched to the scary sharp system. I use regular sandpaper with grits up to 2000 on a slab of granite. If you ask around at shops that do stone work you can get cut offs for free!

-- Geoff Webb, Spokane WA

View Wooder's profile

Wooder

163 posts in 2782 days


#15 posted 2647 days ago

SS and a peice of laminate covered MDF. Has worked just fine and cheap too! Get my sandpaper from a auto parts store to 2000 grit. A few strokes on the 2000 to finish is all that’s needed.

-- Jimmy

View Greg3G's profile

Greg3G

815 posts in 2681 days


#16 posted 2647 days ago

One thing I have learned over time is that I really suck at sharpening. I have tried water stones, oil stones, even tried a grinder once. I made small step and purchased Vertias jig and have started using the sand paper system. I have two 12×12x3/8 in pieces of glass. It still takes me forever to get anything close to being sharp. I am always amazed when i see people whip out razor chisels in less than 5 minutes. It always seems like a day long project for me.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2693 days


#17 posted 2621 days ago

I added a post on the Work Sharp System.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View cabinetman's profile

cabinetman

144 posts in 2739 days


#18 posted 2621 days ago

I use a HF wet/dry grinder that goes on sale for $39. I use it for most of my starting procedures and then finish up with wet-or-dry (silicone carbide) paper wet on glass. I don’t go over 1200. For straight bevel type tools getting the edge straight across the front of the tool makes a big difference. Experimenting with angles can make certain tools work better.

For odd shaped chisels, and turning tools, I use the wet grinder, and diamond hand files.

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2693 days


#19 posted 2613 days ago

I purchased a Work Sharp System and added a review of it to my blog.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View mot's profile

mot

4911 posts in 2632 days


#20 posted 2613 days ago

I use two veritas jigs. Both from the MK.II line. I use the MK.II honing guide for use with water stones. When I have a chisel that is really sharp, but not SCARY sharp, I take out an 8000 water stone, the honing guide, and give it a touch up:

When getting new chisels, when sharpening my planes, or restoring an edge, I use the MK.II sharpening system. It uses a progression of abbrasives and a spinning wheel and creates an edge that will BLOW YOUR MIND! I'm going to do a video review of it in the next week or so:

Cheers!

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View WayneC's profile

WayneC

12246 posts in 2693 days


#21 posted 2613 days ago

I’m looking forward to seeing your video review Tom. I was also thinking I would use my sharpener in conjunction with my waterstones.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Bob Babcock's profile

Bob Babcock

1804 posts in 2682 days


#22 posted 2611 days ago

Great topic…something I need to work on….

-- Bob, Carver Massachusetts, Sawdust Maker http://www.capecodbaychallenge.org

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