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Thoughts on used table saw

2K views 20 replies 15 participants last post by  maxhall 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been wrestling with buying used vs new when it comes to getting a table saw. I found an article that explains important things to check when buying a used table saw (arbor runout, table flatness and surface rust) so I feel I wouldn't get fleeced if I purchased one used. I'm not really loyal to one brand over another just trying to maximize every dollar I can. I found this Jet Table Saw on CL, and it seems to be a good deal. My only reservation is the sliding table attachment that is integrated into the saw. While this is a cool feature this saw doesn't have a left hand miter slot. I was planning on making a crosscut sled and this is really the only jig I can think of that I would use fairly regularly that employs the use of both miter slots. Assuming this sliding table works as it should, this shouldn't be an issue. I've included the listing, let me know if you think this is a good deal.
Also this is 3 hrs away so I wouldn't want to go unless I knew this was a good buy (assuming everything is in working order)

http://longisland.craigslist.org/tls/4259570418.html
 
#2 ·
I would think that all this person is adding in I think you are getting a great deal. The saw alone now I think lists for close to a grand. Being that this is an older saw with a few attachments I think you should do fine. I would get this one if I were in your situation
 
#5 ·
Both good bets, looks like. Now that we have a sliding table, I'm sold on them. You wouldn't need a sled because that's essentially what it is.

That said, you're getting much more saw with the PM-a lifetime tool. I am confident it will run smoother (therefore be safer) than the Jet.

Kindly,

Lee
 
#6 ·
Though I've never worked with one, I've inspected the Jet hybrids at Woodcraft in the past and they impressed me as a pretty slick set up. Sliding table can be very handy if you don't have an accurate RAS or SCMS set up. Price sounds very fair.

The PM 66 is a beast, and a true cabinet saw (heavy cast trunions mounted on the metal cabinet and not the underside of the table). You need some more info b4 you make the drive though. If it's not single phase, don't bother as replacing the motor or setting up an invertor will cost a small fortune. If it is single phase, you need to know if it's 2, 3 or 5 HP. As the 3 & 5 HP will require a 20 amp 220 volt circuit. Moving this beast will be a bit of a challenge, especially if you're putting it in a basement.

The 66 was the gold standard for years…. and cabinet saws are heavy and stable and powerful. But $500 is a lot of cake that could buy you a very nice jointer or planer, and the Jet would be plenty adequate (imo) for any hobby woodworker to do quality projects for a lifetime.
 
#7 ·
Either saw looks fine. As Lee mentioned, with a sliding table you have no need of a crosscut sled, and further there are plenty of crosscut sled designs that use a single runner in a single miter slot. My first one was like that and it continues to work fine, even if I've replaced it with a more common 2-runner design.
 
#8 ·
The Jet is not a bad deal considering the integrated sliding table.

If you don't want a saw that requires 220v power, it might
be a good choice and you can probably sell it at no loss
if you want to upgrade later.

Sliding tables have a lot of cool uses.

Both Jet and DeWalt had similar saws with available sliding
tables on the N. American market and for some reason
they don't sell them anymore. The DeWalt is still
available in Europe I think.
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
I spoke to the guy with the Powermatic, its single phase 2 hp, table has slight rust no serious pitting flat within some amount (he didn't remember offhand), arbor runout .002. The only bad thing about this saw is where its stored there isn't a 220V connection so I can't run the saw. That is the only serious red flag that I could see. It comes with the cabinet underneath for storage.

My other concern is getting this beast in the basement. I have a hatch with 5 stairs to the basement. Its wide enough just that saw is way heavy. I know I can take off the fence, extension wings, mobile base. But I'm assuming still a very heavy piece of machinery.

Would any of you buy a saw if it couldn't be run because no power is available where its stored? Actually I guess I could bring my generator assuming it had a twist connection on it.
 
#10 ·
The generator is a good thought, if it's big enough to run the 2 hp motor.
I think you are right about getting it moved.
I would guess it would weigh in excess of 300 pounds. That's going to take a lot of back power to move.
 
#11 ·
Not sure, but I think the 2 hp can be wired to run on a beefy 110 circuit. That was the point of the smaller motor.

Maniac Matt summed it up well. I consider myself a serious hobbyist, I have been very happy with my Delta Contractors saw for close to 20 years. I have no plans to upgrade to a Unisaw or a 66.

Use the extra money to buy a jointer. That Jet is one sweet deal.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'd go with the Jet too. You'd be getting a very nice saw, at a good price. And the long drive aside, it sounds like less headache at the end of the day being easier to move and operate.
Perhaps there is another activity you can segue into your drive to Long Island?
I live near DC, but have purchased stuff in Norfolk, VA (3 hours). I met an old friend for lunch at a really great seafood restaurant. I was almost glad the item I needed was in Norfolk, rather than in DC :)
Oh- and ask the seller if he has any other items up for grabs. A three hour drive is more worthwhile if you buy a jointer too ( I saw one in the background behind the Jet).
 
#14 ·
Either one would seem to be a good deal. As far as getting a TS into or out of a basement… I got my unisaw down the the basement stairs when I bought it this summer. And and then back up the stairs and into the new shop/garage a couple of weeks ago. I built a ramp to put over the stairs, and used ratchet straps to "pull" it up the stairs. Took a while but I did git'r done, and did it alone. PIA but real doable :eek:)
 
#15 ·
The powermatic is my dream saw! If you can get 220 to your house or wherever you are keeping the saw, and want it that would be a great saw. I would be on that in a second if I had the money and…..permission. But that jet is still a great saw for great money I think you would be served well with either of them
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks Rex I agree if the runout is direct from the arbor that is too much but if ~1 inch from the blades than .002 is satisfactory. I do have the ability to have 220 in my basement. Both sellers have gotten back to me and they're both being looked at so hopefully one is available. I feel like the price is great on both saws so even if I were to upgrade in the future i could sell it for around what I bought it for. Right now I feel I could make use of the Jet faster for the sole reason of size and portability. We have alot of furniture that needs to be refinished that is directly in the spot of where something as big as the powermatic would go. I'm sure I could make it work but I don't think my wife would like the results. I do have a space that would be big enough for the JET which is where my current bottom of the barrel table saw is located. If the Jet is available I will probably go with that one, I know my wife will like the price and size much more and at this point in my WW anything will be better than the used Ryobi POS I got from my neighbor.

Hopefully I hear back from one of the sellers and a saw is available.
 
#19 · (Edited by Moderator)
That's not a bad price for what you get, but it's worth noting that these saws had a pretty well documented history of problems with the elevation belt. The fence is on the "modest" side too.

If you've got the budget, electrical requirements, and the space, the PM66 is in a different league for sure.
 
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