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View Henrymalik19's profile

Craftsman saw 113?

by Henrymalik19
posted 402 days ago


26 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5367 posts in 1972 days


#1 posted 402 days ago

They’re both nearly the same saw at heart…..US made Emerson contractor saws. The first one has stamped steel wings, the 2nd one has grated cast iron which are stiffer and heavier. The 2nd one also has nicer handwheels…the question is whether its worth $75 more and a longer drive (your call). The “3hp” claim on the front of the saw is meaningless…..the motor plate will say 14 amps, 1hp or possibly 1.5hp. Both saws have a fairly lame fence, but it can be upgraded at a later time. Both saws will need a little TLC and should clean up well. Both saws will need a good alignment, and a good blade (Freud Diablo, CMT, Irwin Marples, DW Precision Trim). Both are decent deals IMO. I’d look into the closer one first and see how it looks and runs in person, then would drive farther if it doesn’t check out.

Did you see this one with grated cast iron wings and an excellent aftermarket Biesemeyer fence? I’d check into this one first for sure. http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/3816022403.html

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

12881 posts in 1272 days


#2 posted 401 days ago

Henrymalik19,
Welcome to LJs.

There is NOT a better person, than knotscott, to answer your question. Hands down he is the LJ TS & blade guru!!! What ever advice he offers, TAKE IT!!!

Good luck on your TS hunt and future use. Looking forward to seeing you around the forums…..

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View JayT's profile

JayT

2081 posts in 808 days


#3 posted 401 days ago

Welcome to LJ. I have a Craftsman 113, nearly identical to the second one you show. I’m with knotscott on this, if the one with the aftermarket fence is available, jump on it.

The stock fence on the 113’s is the weakest part of the saw and you would likely want to upgrade at some point anyways. An upgraded fence and mobile base (if the seller is throwing that in) are worth as much as the saw. If your budget is 150, offer that and see what happens.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

947 posts in 1462 days


#4 posted 401 days ago

I think i would travel an hour, you will save a lot more time than that because it’s not nearly as rusty.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1102 days


#5 posted 401 days ago

I have the second saw and love it.

I filled in the webbed wings with 1/4 plywood and liquid nails. Added a link belts, Ridgid Fence over time. With a Freud thin kerf 40tooh blade you’re all set!

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

View MacNut11's profile

MacNut11

19 posts in 633 days


#6 posted 401 days ago

I have a Craftsman TS that’s about 15 or 16 years old it has the same extruded aluminum rails and fence that Todd23 has which is decent but it’s no Biesemeyer. It also has the metal handles, cast iron extensions, and machined pulleys. It only been used sporadically in the last 10 years. It’s a much nicer TS than the first Craftsman TS I bought some 25 years ago and sold it before our last move.

My first Craftsman TS had the stamped steel wings and were very hard to keep in any kind of alignment, very springy. I would take a straight edge with you and check the tables for flatness. I would also check the trunnions for cracks as they will most likely be made of cast aluminum. I remember taking one Craftsman TS back because the main table was so out of flat. I’m a little picky about those sorta things having been a career long Journeyman Machinist.

I just used Searchtempest to search Craigslist and was amazed at the number of Craftsman Table Saws that are in and around the Charlotte area, which happens to not be too far from me.

View Henrymalik19's profile

Henrymalik19

6 posts in 402 days


#7 posted 401 days ago

Ok thanks for all the help I am going to look at the one for 150 that has bessy fence… Are these saws pretty quiet? I don’t want the neighbors stating a riot on me lol

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3342 posts in 2557 days


#8 posted 401 days ago

Please don’t forget to add a good blade. 50 tooth combo or specific rip or cross cut set. Cheap blades will yield grief big time.
Let us know what ya buy.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

947 posts in 1462 days


#9 posted 401 days ago

On mine the only thing you can hear is the whirring of the blade going through the air.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5367 posts in 1972 days


#10 posted 401 days ago

”Are these saws pretty quiet? ”

No where near as loud as portable jobsite type saw. Without a blade you’ll barely even hear it run….most of the noise with a blade installed will be wind noise. Cutting is a little louder.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Henrymalik19's profile

Henrymalik19

6 posts in 402 days


#11 posted 398 days ago

Ok guys I bought the table saw. I purchased one an hour away Witt the upgraded fence..I payed 150 and think I got a pretty good deal. As yo can see though I have a lot of work. Any tips?

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5367 posts in 1972 days


#12 posted 398 days ago

You did great IMO! An Emerson US made saw with metal handwheels, mobile base, grated cast iron wings, and a commercial Biesemeyer fence for $150 is a very solid bargain. The fence is worth $150 as is….the rest was free!

Clean in up, get it aligned well, and get a decent blade for it. You might consider a $20 set of PALS to help with the alignment. You may also want a good aftermarket miter gauge….the basic Incras start at ~ $60, or at the very least build a crosscut sled. Good luck!

Saw Blades Tips

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View JayT's profile

JayT

2081 posts in 808 days


#13 posted 397 days ago

Congrats on a great buy!

The top will clean up well with a palm sander, some gray Scotch-Brite pads and some light oil (mineral oil, 3in1 or even WD40). Replace the belt, get it aligned (PALS will help, but it can be done without them, albeit with a lot more frustration) and start making sawdust.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View Henrymalik19's profile

Henrymalik19

6 posts in 402 days


#14 posted 397 days ago

Ok I took the whole saw apart to clean it so why are good things to use to clean it… Clean rust of cradle inside parts etc and make it look nice…

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

6640 posts in 1280 days


#15 posted 397 days ago

Mine:

I just combined two of them, to fix up one saw. Upgrade was $25 for the second saw.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View toolie's profile

toolie

1717 posts in 1225 days


#16 posted 397 days ago

the process in this video works quite well on CI. i’ve used it with great success:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSJjN8jvdp4&feature=relmfu

and there are other parts to that video series that also deal with cleaning the innards. good luck.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1230 days


#17 posted 397 days ago

I clean the inside of my 113 with plain engine oil. Wipe it clean. The apply some dry lube/motorcycle chain lube. Dry lubricants don’t attract dust and debris.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1102 days


#18 posted 396 days ago

dude, you made out like a bandit!!!! Clean the cast iron on sucker up with Wd40 and a green Scotchbrite pad on a sander, then coat with Johnson’s furniture paste wax. I use dry lube I buy at Lowes on the internal gearing.

Check your blade to square from the miter slot.

The Beis fence and metal handwheels are HUGE upgrades.

Then get a link belt, and fill in the webbed wings with some 1/4inch plywood using Liquid nails to hold it.

Pick up a nice Freud 40 tooth LU86 blade on Amazon.

BIG CONGRATS TO YOU!

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

View toolie's profile

toolie

1717 posts in 1225 days


#19 posted 395 days ago

fill in the webbed wings with some 1/4inch plywood using Liquid nails to hold it.

one of the worst suggestions ever. i have the webbed CI extensions and i’ve never caught a finger in the webbing. the webbing provides great access for clamping jigs and accessories.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1102 days


#20 posted 395 days ago

WORST?? Really?? Gosh—Your “worst” bar is set pretty low. ROTFLMAO

I can think of plenty of “worst” stuff that what I suggested. I guess we’ll agree to disagree…

Historically over the years, I’ve heard many say they feel the webbed wings are the “worst” part of these era saws.

I tried clamping stuff (featherboards) on those webs back in the day and thought it was PITA.

I never pinched a finger either, but I like to rest a pencil, square or tape measure on the right side wing. They never fall off now.

To me, it’s one of the BEST upgrades I ever did. ;)

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1230 days


#21 posted 395 days ago

I’d skip the link belt and just find a replacement belt at the local auto parts store. I personally don’t think the link belts are worth 5X more than a v-belt. But some will passionately disagree.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1717 posts in 1225 days


#22 posted 395 days ago

i believe in link belts and would look to the units sold by HF, which seem to be reasonably priced. i’ve two 113 type saws and the c-man with machined pullleys and link belt is a bit smoother than my ridgid with it’s ribbed belt. machined pulleys are important to smooth machine operation.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1102 days


#23 posted 395 days ago

Machined pullyes is one thing I never got done. Once I bought some and they were the wrong size, and then never got around to it again.

Where is a good source? I have a 113.298762 saw.

-- http://www.PictureTrail.com/gid6255915

View DIYaholic's profile

DIYaholic

12881 posts in 1272 days


#24 posted 395 days ago

Todd,
In-line Industries is where I got my machined pullies (PALS too), link belt I got from HF!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

6640 posts in 1280 days


#25 posted 395 days ago

I don’t think a link belt will work on mine, though

Nice upgrade, though..

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1376 posts in 1102 days


#26 posted 395 days ago

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