All Replies on Ripping @ 50*

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View AandCstyle's profile

Ripping @ 50*

by AandCstyle
posted 06-01-2013 10:17 PM

17 replies so far

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1316 posts in 1524 days

#1 posted 06-01-2013 10:19 PM

a circular saw and a straight edge.

View Alongiron's profile


616 posts in 2269 days

#2 posted 06-01-2013 10:20 PM


I would run it through my bandsaw and clean it up on the jointer


-- Measure twice and cut once.....sneak up on it! Steve Lien

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 1862 days

#3 posted 06-01-2013 10:22 PM

How about you set it at 40 and use the other side?

View Loren's profile


8533 posts in 3224 days

#4 posted 06-01-2013 10:36 PM

Good idea from Charlie.

You could rip to 45 and do the rest of the angle
on a jointer or with hand planes. On the jointer
you set the fence to 45 and tape a strip of wood
to the workpiece so the angle of presentation
of the work to the cutterhead is a little steeper.

A little geometry lesson though – in order to
make a miter more obtuse than 90 degrees
you actually want more obtuse cuts on the individual
ends. To make an 80 degree corner you subtract
80 from 180 = 100 and divide by 2 = 50.

In order to get a 100 degree (obtuse) corner,
subtract 100 from 180 = 80/2 = 40.

Table saw normally cuts angles subtracted from 90
degrees, so to cut 10 degrees off 90 (100 on
the acute corner and 80 on the obtuse one)
the blade is angled 10 degrees.

Two 90 degree ends butt together to make
a 180 degree flat joint. Remove 1 degree and
the angle becomes an obtuse miter. It is
the acute, pointy miters that present challenges
on the table saw. Old variety saws used
by patternmakers have tilting fences as
well as tilting arbors.

View dhazelton's profile


2468 posts in 1872 days

#5 posted 06-01-2013 10:43 PM

90 minus 50 equals 40 – what he said.

View AandCstyle's profile


2670 posts in 1833 days

#6 posted 06-01-2013 10:50 PM

Thanks to everyone for the quick replies. I think I will use Charlie’s solution. I guess it was time to quit for the day if I wasn’t able to figure that out by myself. LOL

-- Art

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2266 days

#7 posted 06-02-2013 01:38 AM

Don’t feel bad Art. No one is more “angle dyslexic” than I am!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Grumpymike's profile


2007 posts in 1891 days

#8 posted 06-02-2013 04:48 PM

Hi Art,
I think Charlie has the right idea … but here is a neat way to insert a ° in your text:
push and hold the ALT, inter 0176, and release the ALT … Is this cool or what …
(The em-bear-ass-ing thing is that I learned that from my g-grand daughter) color me humble.

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it. ... Surprise Az.

View nailbanger2's profile


1041 posts in 2719 days

#9 posted 06-02-2013 05:18 PM

Hey°mike°, that’s°pretty°cool°!

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View AandCstyle's profile


2670 posts in 1833 days

#10 posted 06-02-2013 06:17 PM

Mike, I knew there was some secret code to do it and I think there is a chart that can be found in Windows listing all kinds of special characters, but I’m lazy, so rather than looking it up, I just type it out on this site. :) Other sites let me use the ”*” character, but that gets me bold font on LJ.

I did rip the pieces this AM and it worked fine. I am just waiting for the glue to dry so I can take the next step.

-- Art

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

812 posts in 1810 days

#11 posted 06-02-2013 08:22 PM

I can’t get the 0176 thing to work I hold ALT and enter 0176 and release the ALT key and it stays blank.

-- Jerry

View Grumpymike's profile


2007 posts in 1891 days

#12 posted 06-03-2013 07:36 PM

Jerry, Maybe its a west of the Missippi thing?
Could it be a Windows item and you are on an Apple
I really don’t have a clue why your having a problem, I’m not a computer guy, I have to ask the kids, grand kids or the g-great grand kids …

Yeah, I know what you mean, ... I have one and only one memorized, don’t know where to look up the rest so I spell it out.

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it. ... Surprise Az.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7355 posts in 2490 days

#13 posted 06-04-2013 12:23 AM

OK, this only works on my number key pad on the right side of the keyboard. It does not seem to work using the numbers across the top of the keyboard. °

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Buckethead's profile


3156 posts in 1444 days

#14 posted 06-04-2013 02:34 AM

Hold on a doggoned minute.

If one rips a board on a 40 degree ( iPad doesn’t have an alt key) bevel, the cutoff piece will be at 40 degrees as well. The heel of the cut will be at 50 degrees.

In order to achieve a 50 degree bevel, one would need to set the saw back to 90 and recut at the short point of the bevel created previously at 40 degrees.

Perhaps a jig is in order here. That is a pretty squirrelly cut to make, let alone the potential danger if attempting to utilize the fence as a guide for the long point of the bevel.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

View waho6o9's profile


7557 posts in 2153 days

#15 posted 06-04-2013 02:44 AM

° LOL °

Thanks Horizontal Mike

° ¯ ® ³ ² ± ¯® ­­ ¬ « ® Evidently when holding ALT and then entering 0176, 0175, 0174, etc
different symbols appear, however, I must use the keypad on the right side of the key board.

2 cool.

View AandCstyle's profile


2670 posts in 1833 days

#16 posted 06-04-2013 02:54 AM

Hi, Buckethead,
I ripped 2 sides of a board to 40 degrees with the point of the bevel up and against the fence for the second rip. Then I ripped the board at 90 degrees twice to get the width I needed, again with the points of the bevels up. The 2 cut offs were scrap. Finally, putting the 2 40 degree bevels together gave me the 100 degrees I needed. Does this make sense? Also, I didn’t feel like the procedure was any more dangerous than any other ripping operation. At least I still have all my fingers and didn’t gain any grey hair. :D

-- Art

View Buckethead's profile


3156 posts in 1444 days

#17 posted 06-04-2013 11:29 AM

So you were seeing it. The earlier comments seemed to me to be saying that one side of the blade would produce a 40 degree bevel, while the other side of the blade would produce a 50 degree bevel. I might have been misinterpreting that point. ;-)

Actually… I was misinterpreting the entire post. Upon closer inspection, you measured 100 degrees from the face of one surface to the face of the other surface but at the exterior of the unit. (A closer look at the picture shows the front of the speaker forming less than a 90 degree angle) Hence Loren’s geometry lesson. That is where the need to subtract from 180 came in. There was no need for a 50 degree beveled cut.

I seem to have had the dial in my mind flipped backwards. Lisdexia is a bummer.

-- Support woodworking hand models. Buy me a sawstop.

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