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View AandCstyle's profile

Voids in oak

by AandCstyle
posted 434 days ago


20 replies so far

View madts's profile

madts

1222 posts in 923 days


#1 posted 434 days ago

I would add some oak flour to some 5 minute epoxy and cram it into the checks, and never look back.

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Alongiron's profile

Alongiron

401 posts in 1276 days


#2 posted 434 days ago

Art

That would be called a “Check” in the wood.

Here is an article that I bookmarked some time ago about these and other “problem areas” in wood floors but it can be used to help here.

http://hardwoodfloorsmag.com/articles/article.aspx?articleid=1552&zoneid=1

Madts is right spot on about the solution

-- Measure twice and cut once.....

View MisterBill's profile

MisterBill

337 posts in 835 days


#3 posted 434 days ago

What I’ve done with similar cracks is to first apply masking tape around the perimeter of the crack or check. This is to limit how far the epoxy spreads and to reduce the amount of sanding that you will have to do later. Next mix up the oak flour and 5 minute epoxy and apply it over the voids. Now cover the epoxy with a piece of waxpaper. Put a caul over the waxpaper and clamp the caul to your good piece of wood. The clamping pressure will force the epoxy/saw dust mixture into the voids.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3318 posts in 2544 days


#4 posted 434 days ago

Yep. Epoxy, and color/fill as ya wish.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1224 posts in 840 days


#5 posted 433 days ago

Thanks for the replies. It appears that my memory was sorta, kinda close. :) I was thinking cyanoacrylate glue for some reason. Steve, that is an interesting article; previously, I had only thought of checking in end grain. MisterBill, that is a good suggestion. I would probably have tried to apply it with a putty knife.

When I finish this project, I will post pix.

-- Art

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10406 posts in 1273 days


#6 posted 433 days ago

Art, Thanks for posting this. The railroad dunnage I worked with recently had a lot of these ‘checks’. I just filled them with Timbermate grain filler but was concerned with the permanence of that fix. It’s a LOT quicker and easier than epoxy but probably doesn’t work as well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1224 posts in 840 days


#7 posted 433 days ago

Andy, sharing info and knowledge is what it is all about. I hope your project holds up well.

-- Art

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10406 posts in 1273 days


#8 posted 433 days ago

That’s why this is such a great site: sharing info and knowledge with like minded people.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View MisterBill's profile

MisterBill

337 posts in 835 days


#9 posted 433 days ago

One other good trick is to mix your epoxy in the inside corner of a sandwich bag. When you are ready to apply it, make a small cut in the corner off of the bag and use it similar to a cake icer.

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4135 posts in 1535 days


#10 posted 433 days ago

MisterBill, does that actually work with epoxy? I use that method all the time with other stuff, but epoxy will melt thin plastics—I mixed it once in a dixie cup and that was almost an epic failure.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6905 posts in 1497 days


#11 posted 433 days ago

The only thing I would add is to use a 1in paint spatula/scraper to help force the epoxy/glue into the void. I have even used a paperclip tip on occasion to get the glue/epoxy down into the groove before it sets up (and use clamps of course). My 2-cents…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View MisterBill's profile

MisterBill

337 posts in 835 days


#12 posted 433 days ago

Brandon,

The method that I described works fine with a plastic sandwich bag. I have never had a problem with it. It is is a neat (clean) way to apply epoxy and there is practically no mess involved.

MisterBill

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1004 days


#13 posted 433 days ago

If this board is already to your finished dimensions then all of the above advice is good.

If it is still oversized, or rough cut, you can rip the board at the area of the check, joint it and then reglue it back together. The grain will match nicely with no fillers and no more check.

You would need to be careful to use a splitter, or riving knife when you rip this board since the check indicates internal stresses during the drying of this board.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1224 posts in 840 days


#14 posted 432 days ago

More good suggestions. My thanks to everyone!

-- Art

View NewEnglandsWoodWorks's profile

NewEnglandsWoodWorks

117 posts in 1185 days


#15 posted 432 days ago

Just put some normal wood glue in it and rub some sawdust in.

-- Brett

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2935 posts in 870 days


#16 posted 432 days ago

If you can clamp that check out, then try some thin CA glue. Leave it clamped over night. The end grain will discolor but oak won’t soak it so far you cant sand it out. Just be frugal with the glue and don’t use too much. After you unclamp it, you won’t even be able to find where that check was. It looks like it made the wood a bit wider too. How far down the board does that check go?

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1224 posts in 840 days


#17 posted 431 days ago

Brett, that is certainly the easiest approach, but will wood movement be an issue?

Russell, I don’t think clamping is the answer; the sides are parallel, but thanks for the suggestion.

I have some scraps and I will try different solutions to see what works best for me in the short term.

-- Art

View jtriggs's profile

jtriggs

63 posts in 2400 days


#18 posted 429 days ago

AandC,
I work with oak a lot and I ran into that problem with a batch of wood I bought from my supplier. They called the cause ‘case hardening’. This is the definition from Wikipedia:

Case hardening describes lumber or timber that has been improperly kiln-dried.

The result are voids inside the wood and abnormal stresses between the interior and exterior of the wood. A good supplier will replace that wood. Mine did. That’s why I still go there.

I thought about filling the voids I found but as I cut more wood I found more voids and decided it would detract from the esthetics of the project too much.
Jon

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

1224 posts in 840 days


#19 posted 428 days ago

Jon, thanks for the info. I have heard of case hardening, but haven’t ever been shown an example to know if that is what I have or not. I have also found things referred to as surface checks and honeycomb. If I lived closer to the supplier, I would take it back, but the value is less than the cost of gas. The important thing is that the fix is relatively easy and I don’t think it will impact the appearance.

-- Art

View SteviePete's profile

SteviePete

221 posts in 1886 days


#20 posted 428 days ago

I cut, saw, air dry, and process most of the wood I use. I see this defect in the middle of the middle board (center of a QSRO where the stem and the young wood is found). Avoid the wood if you can, rip and glue as above or stain it and call it character features or rustic class; but you will always know you have a defect—-and on judgement day you will be held accountable.

In butternut and walnut the pith causes a similar defect of splitting. Good luck. On, Wisconsin!

-- Steve, 'Sconie Great White North

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