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All Replies on Can Rust Free Machine Screw be Shortened And Still Be Rust Free?

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View stefang's profile

Can Rust Free Machine Screw be Shortened And Still Be Rust Free?

by stefang
posted 455 days ago


20 replies so far

View madts's profile

madts

1233 posts in 938 days


#1 posted 455 days ago

If it is made from stainless steel, then yes. Otherwise no. Use NeverSeize or loctite on the end for protection.

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7234 posts in 2247 days


#2 posted 455 days ago

Or brass.

Standard zinc coated screws and bolts will rust where you
cut or grind them. If it’s just for aesthetic reasons and
a stainless screw is not available, the end can be polished
and coated with a little lacquer or maybe shellac.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11063 posts in 1704 days


#3 posted 455 days ago

If they are rust free, does that mean stainless? Most regular steel screws will rust if left outside in the elements- except good quality high nickel stainless. If you cut them off then they will rust faster because it is raw. You could paint the end with a good silver paint or put an acorn nut on it to seal the end.

....................................Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View MeanGene's profile

MeanGene

15 posts in 1570 days


#4 posted 455 days ago

“Rust -free” are typically steel screws coated with zinc. If the coating is scraped of or exposed (cut end), the exposed area will rust. Coating the exposed area with paint or a rust inhibitor will help. But any iron product will eventiuallly rust when exposed to moisture for a prolonged period. Stainless screws contain a percentage of chromium and nickel which make the screws rust resistant throughout, not just on the surface of the screw.

View junebug's profile

junebug

81 posts in 1003 days


#5 posted 455 days ago

can always spray the ends of the screw with this and see how it works

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=36!http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/products/SRCgcCldSpL.jpg!

We use an industrial version of this product with good results at work

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#6 posted 455 days ago

Thanks to Madts and Loren.

Jim and Gene I’m talking about the stainless steel ones. I know from experience that they can still rust some eventually, but I suppose, like you say Jim, that the rough surface where it’s cut will just rust faster than the rest it if it isn’t protected with some surface coating.

This came up because my son is revamping a unique bike he got some years ago which was a prototype with a special aluminum frame. It is pretty cool. He is mounting even higher quality components on it and also hydraulic brakes, and the assembly for that is where the screw will be used. Unlike myself he is extremely particular with even the smallest details of what he is doing. I admire that, but I get a lot of questions, some of which I can’t answer, like this one. So I appreciate the help.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#7 posted 455 days ago

Thanks Junebug, I can’t get it in Norway.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Dave's profile

Dave

11142 posts in 1439 days


#8 posted 455 days ago

Mike place the highest polish on the part you remove. This will prevent it longer.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#9 posted 455 days ago

Dave, but if I polish the part I remove how will that help the part to be used?, Lol. Thanks Dave I do get it and I will do it.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1460 posts in 2164 days


#10 posted 454 days ago

Mike,
Stainless surgical instruments are protected from there harsh environments by a process called passivation (also called pickling), read here about Passivation of stainless. It seems the key here is to be sure the end of the bolt/screw has no contaminants and is polished passivation, can be done with citric acid.

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#11 posted 454 days ago

Thanks Tim. The job is already done. Luckily I didn’t have to cut off much, so I was able to do it very accurately on the grinder. After grinding, I polished the ends to a chrome like finish just as you suggest.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Dave's profile

Dave

11142 posts in 1439 days


#12 posted 454 days ago

Mike sorry I speak redneck, sorry. You get it. ;)

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1644 posts in 1521 days


#13 posted 454 days ago

Mike,
During my days as worker on ship engine, stainless steel is pure when you can not magnetize it though there are so many grades of strentgh. Alloyed with chrome and vanadium will rust but it is really strong that the rust will not destroy it in years. As long as the bolts or nuts are tight, it will not rust inside but those exposed to air will rust or corrode due to age. A simple coat of any sort that will prevent exposure to air then there will be no rust. Watch for those coated metals… even rethreading or just filing the bolts or nuts, the coating will be destroyed. In your place, take A2 type of stainless steel, markings on the bolts or packets will class it. Also try to use magnets.

By the way, scissors are classsed stainless steel, but they are magnetized because of hardening and tempering.
Hope this would help you.

-- Bert

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2716 posts in 1842 days


#14 posted 454 days ago

You could also use titanium, K-monel or CRES, Cl 304, cond A.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#15 posted 454 days ago

Thanks Bert and Ron. The jobs done, but I did learn a lot from you guys. I don’t know much about wood and even less about metal, so it always good to have a little more knowledge for future reference.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#16 posted 454 days ago

Hi Dave. I just couldn’t resist. I am known in my family for sticking my foot in my mouth all the time, so I do my best to pick on others to compensate. It’s all in fun.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3047 posts in 1274 days


#17 posted 454 days ago

aaahhhh the typical size 10 D mouth….LOL

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1074 days


#18 posted 454 days ago

stefang, I notice that you ground and polished the screw. Even higher grades of stainless can be contaminated when cutting or grinding. If your grinding wheel had been used on carbon steel prior to the stainless you could introduce carbon contaminants that start rust development. In your case the polishing – sanding with clean paper might be your savior.

View jhunt's profile

jhunt

4 posts in 347 days


#19 posted 347 days ago

Here is a good overview on how Stainless Steel works
In summary if Stainless is cut, with no iron contamination from tools and in the presence of Oxygen, its protective psaaive oxide layer will re-form and work as good as new.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12576 posts in 1933 days


#20 posted 347 days ago

Thanks jhunt.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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