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All Replies on Can Rust Free Machine Screw be Shortened And Still Be Rust Free?

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View stefang's profile

Can Rust Free Machine Screw be Shortened And Still Be Rust Free?

by stefang
posted 04-26-2013 05:27 PM


20 replies so far

View madts's profile

madts

1261 posts in 992 days


#1 posted 04-26-2013 05:32 PM

If it is made from stainless steel, then yes. Otherwise no. Use NeverSeize or loctite on the end for protection.

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7545 posts in 2300 days


#2 posted 04-26-2013 05:38 PM

Or brass.

Standard zinc coated screws and bolts will rust where you
cut or grind them. If it’s just for aesthetic reasons and
a stainless screw is not available, the end can be polished
and coated with a little lacquer or maybe shellac.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Jim Jakosh's profile (online now)

Jim Jakosh

11424 posts in 1757 days


#3 posted 04-26-2013 05:49 PM

If they are rust free, does that mean stainless? Most regular steel screws will rust if left outside in the elements- except good quality high nickel stainless. If you cut them off then they will rust faster because it is raw. You could paint the end with a good silver paint or put an acorn nut on it to seal the end.

....................................Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View MeanGene's profile

MeanGene

15 posts in 1623 days


#4 posted 04-26-2013 06:47 PM

“Rust -free” are typically steel screws coated with zinc. If the coating is scraped of or exposed (cut end), the exposed area will rust. Coating the exposed area with paint or a rust inhibitor will help. But any iron product will eventiuallly rust when exposed to moisture for a prolonged period. Stainless screws contain a percentage of chromium and nickel which make the screws rust resistant throughout, not just on the surface of the screw.

View junebug's profile

junebug

82 posts in 1056 days


#5 posted 04-26-2013 07:59 PM

can always spray the ends of the screw with this and see how it works

http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=36!http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/products/SRCgcCldSpL.jpg!

We use an industrial version of this product with good results at work

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#6 posted 04-26-2013 08:08 PM

Thanks to Madts and Loren.

Jim and Gene I’m talking about the stainless steel ones. I know from experience that they can still rust some eventually, but I suppose, like you say Jim, that the rough surface where it’s cut will just rust faster than the rest it if it isn’t protected with some surface coating.

This came up because my son is revamping a unique bike he got some years ago which was a prototype with a special aluminum frame. It is pretty cool. He is mounting even higher quality components on it and also hydraulic brakes, and the assembly for that is where the screw will be used. Unlike myself he is extremely particular with even the smallest details of what he is doing. I admire that, but I get a lot of questions, some of which I can’t answer, like this one. So I appreciate the help.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#7 posted 04-26-2013 08:11 PM

Thanks Junebug, I can’t get it in Norway.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Dave's profile

Dave

11168 posts in 1492 days


#8 posted 04-27-2013 03:07 AM

Mike place the highest polish on the part you remove. This will prevent it longer.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#9 posted 04-27-2013 08:17 AM

Dave, but if I polish the part I remove how will that help the part to be used?, Lol. Thanks Dave I do get it and I will do it.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1467 posts in 2217 days


#10 posted 04-27-2013 10:49 AM

Mike,
Stainless surgical instruments are protected from there harsh environments by a process called passivation (also called pickling), read here about Passivation of stainless. It seems the key here is to be sure the end of the bolt/screw has no contaminants and is polished passivation, can be done with citric acid.

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#11 posted 04-27-2013 12:00 PM

Thanks Tim. The job is already done. Luckily I didn’t have to cut off much, so I was able to do it very accurately on the grinder. After grinding, I polished the ends to a chrome like finish just as you suggest.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Dave's profile

Dave

11168 posts in 1492 days


#12 posted 04-27-2013 12:47 PM

Mike sorry I speak redneck, sorry. You get it. ;)

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View BertFlores58's profile

BertFlores58

1646 posts in 1574 days


#13 posted 04-27-2013 01:52 PM

Mike,
During my days as worker on ship engine, stainless steel is pure when you can not magnetize it though there are so many grades of strentgh. Alloyed with chrome and vanadium will rust but it is really strong that the rust will not destroy it in years. As long as the bolts or nuts are tight, it will not rust inside but those exposed to air will rust or corrode due to age. A simple coat of any sort that will prevent exposure to air then there will be no rust. Watch for those coated metals… even rethreading or just filing the bolts or nuts, the coating will be destroyed. In your place, take A2 type of stainless steel, markings on the bolts or packets will class it. Also try to use magnets.

By the way, scissors are classsed stainless steel, but they are magnetized because of hardening and tempering.
Hope this would help you.

-- Bert

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2830 posts in 1895 days


#14 posted 04-27-2013 03:47 PM

You could also use titanium, K-monel or CRES, Cl 304, cond A.

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#15 posted 04-27-2013 05:15 PM

Thanks Bert and Ron. The jobs done, but I did learn a lot from you guys. I don’t know much about wood and even less about metal, so it always good to have a little more knowledge for future reference.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#16 posted 04-27-2013 05:18 PM

Hi Dave. I just couldn’t resist. I am known in my family for sticking my foot in my mouth all the time, so I do my best to pick on others to compensate. It’s all in fun.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3129 posts in 1327 days


#17 posted 04-27-2013 05:24 PM

aaahhhh the typical size 10 D mouth….LOL

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1127 days


#18 posted 04-28-2013 02:51 AM

stefang, I notice that you ground and polished the screw. Even higher grades of stainless can be contaminated when cutting or grinding. If your grinding wheel had been used on carbon steel prior to the stainless you could introduce carbon contaminants that start rust development. In your case the polishing – sanding with clean paper might be your savior.

View jhunt's profile

jhunt

4 posts in 400 days


#19 posted 08-13-2013 01:44 AM

Here is a good overview on how Stainless Steel works
In summary if Stainless is cut, with no iron contamination from tools and in the presence of Oxygen, its protective psaaive oxide layer will re-form and work as good as new.

View stefang's profile

stefang

13019 posts in 1986 days


#20 posted 08-13-2013 08:28 AM

Thanks jhunt.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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