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View jimig11's profile

Modding a TS fence

by jimig11
posted 04-06-2013 01:21 PM


30 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5554 posts in 2094 days


#1 posted 04-06-2013 02:28 PM

That’s the same fence that came on the Ridgid TS3650, and is fairly well regarded. It’s worth a lot more than $30…maybe $100-$150, and it’ll directly fit a lot saws (Emerson and TTI/Ryobi made Ridgid and Craftsman contractor saws) so you might want to consider whether or not you want to sacrifice that value.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2169 posts in 1569 days


#2 posted 04-06-2013 02:32 PM

I like knotscott’s angle on this….could you resell it and make enough to get an easily-mounted unit?

I think your plan is a workable one, but now is a good time to consider all the possibilities when you’re in the game this easily.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1194 days


#3 posted 04-06-2013 05:19 PM

I’m having a moment of brain fart here so you might have to excuse me…. but. Is there any reason why you could not extend the distance between the rails with spacers. It might take a bit to figure out but you should be able to use it on this saw and still retain it’s value and usability on a larger unit.

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#4 posted 04-06-2013 11:08 PM

Ok, sorry guys been at work all day, antsy to get home and post replies, so as for selling it, I would be lucky to get $150, when i first started perusing Kijiji looking for an upgrade a guy posted an Excalibur fence for $120. It’s still up for sale. So in my area used TS fences don’t sell to fast. That was my 1st thought to. Then after realizing the time it would take to sell as well as a replacement starting at $200+ tax my mind moved to modding the fence.
No, no brain fart there, good question, as far as I can see I am not able to do that because of the mounting configuration and gap. See the mounting bolts are T-bolts that sit in a track in the rail, attach to your table with nuts, gap is 6”. Any ideas?

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1254 posts in 1165 days


#5 posted 04-06-2013 11:43 PM

Without close up pictures it will be hard to quite understand why you have to cut it.try to find a way so it stays intact .
I almost bought that Excalibur fence from that seller in Toronto (Oakville) but decided against it and instead I bought a Beisemeyer fence which incidentally was also too big for my saw ,I managed to install it without cutting it down.

-- Ken from Ontario

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#6 posted 04-06-2013 11:51 PM

Funny you should say that, I am just charging my phone now so I can take some close ups. That guy is a clown, $120 or OBO I offer $100 and he sends me a nasty email back so i am kind of glad to hear you did not buy it. In about 45 min i will post close ups of everything I am working with, how much you pay for the bies? Rolls Royce of fences..

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1254 posts in 1165 days


#7 posted 04-07-2013 12:08 AM

That guy also didn’t want to budge from $120 ,I didn’t understand the point of putting “OBO” in any ad if the price is firm! he also wanted $25 gas money to meet me in GTA,I finally told him NO thank you.
The Beisemeyer was $250 but what a fence,it literary changed my pos saw in to a great saw.

-- Ken from Ontario

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#8 posted 04-07-2013 03:58 AM

A closer look at the problem.

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1194 days


#9 posted 04-07-2013 04:24 AM

Are the bolts special, perhaps longer bolts could be used along with some dimensionally stable material to fill the (6”) gap. Is there a chance to use additional bolts? Depending on how much weight you ask that “table extension” to carry there might be some stretching or deflection with four bolts over that length of run.

View runswithscissors's profile

runswithscissors

1144 posts in 743 days


#10 posted 04-07-2013 04:30 AM

If the fence is aluminum, you don’t need to hacksaw it. Your chopsaw with a woodcutting blade will work fine. Squirt WD40 on the blade before cutting, which will help keep the al from sticking to the teeth. Won’t hurt your blade at all. Just cut slowly, and be sure the blade is up to speed before engaging in the metal.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

903 posts in 2332 days


#11 posted 04-07-2013 04:58 AM

Ahhh, I see your problem. This fence is designed for a 27” deep table. Yours is 20-21”?? So you want to shorten the fence, not the guide rails.

As far as the fence goes, I believe the main body of the fence is a standard extrusion. If it is that easily replaced, I wouldn’t feel bad about shortening the fence!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5554 posts in 2094 days


#12 posted 04-07-2013 11:32 AM

How about adding an extension to the back of the saw, and mount the rear rail to that?

Here’s an example that actually extends the front and the back:

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#13 posted 04-07-2013 11:47 AM

F* I sold my chop saw last week. As far as making an extension goes, that would be my 1st choice, I just do not have the means to achieve that. That is, I am a total amateur and do not know how to go about it. My thoughts get stuck again on how do I mount the rail with those dang t bolts?
Also, extrusion is easy to get? If so, where can i get it? I would rather just buy the right length piece of extrusion and just move parts across, keeping original fence utilizable down the road.

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

243 posts in 843 days


#14 posted 04-07-2013 12:14 PM

Can you post a pic of the back of the fence, including the threaded rod? Im wondering if there is a chance you can move the end piece that tighten on the rail without cutting the fence. Maybe it could move in 6 inches and just keep moving down the threaded rod.

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#15 posted 04-07-2013 02:11 PM

No go on that, theres a solid plate on the end cap for the tension rod nut.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1347 days


#16 posted 04-07-2013 02:28 PM

Simple. Get longer bolts and a piece of 1/2” metal electrical conduit . Use the conduit to fabricate spacers between the table top and the rear fence rail. The spacers, with the bolts running through them, will hold the rear fence rail in place. i wouldn’t cut that fence under any circumstances. I have a similar fence on a rigid ts2412 and it’s every bit as accurate as the t2 I have on an Emerson built cman.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1194 days


#17 posted 04-07-2013 02:45 PM

toolie has a good idea. I was thinking of using Baltic Birch Plywood, Melamine PB or something along those lines. You might also consider if you want to extend both the front and back or just the back. I either case watch your miter slots. Will this fence / rail system allow you to still utilize your splitter / blade guard?

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1254 posts in 1165 days


#18 posted 04-07-2013 04:22 PM

You have some great advice here,I now understand why you wanted to cut the fence down by 6”,in my very ,very limited experience with fences I have come to the conclusion(was also told by experienced members) that fences that pinch at two points are not as reliable as the single points ,now if you want to extend the second pinch point ,you may be able to do it but you may also sacrifice it’s already limited accuracy.
I’m thinking you only paid very little for the fence,already found out it is easier to just shorten it ,you say you are limited in required tools & perhaps related knowledge,I think your best bet is to just cut it to size and make it as reliably accurate as it was designed.
I would make sure to cut it down exactly to the required length sine once it’s cut it would be too late to put it back,take your time,take pictures of the disassembly for future reference,good luck.

-- Ken from Ontario

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#19 posted 04-07-2013 06:02 PM

http://www.lowes.com/pd_72711-1792-101543_0__

Is this the material you are talking about? Extrnding with these at that length will put a lot of stress on the cast iron no? I am also concerned in keeping it square, shortening the fence gives me a straight edge to attach rail.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1347 days


#20 posted 04-07-2013 11:55 PM

yes it is. you could also use black iron nipples as spacers. i don’t think either the conduit or black iron will stress the CI top, assuming the fence is tightened enough and not over tightened. the fence head is what squares up the fence relative to the front rail, and since it clamps in one place only at the rear of the table, squaring should not be a problem.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View wooded's profile

wooded

306 posts in 990 days


#21 posted 04-08-2013 03:04 AM

jim!..........Remove the gray end from the fence and get the rod out of the way. Cut the extruded fence to the proper length. Cut the inner rod an equal length the same amount somewhere in the middle. Then either you or someone who knows how can weld the rod back together, or the two ends can be threaded and long nutted back together. Nothing more to it…...........;-J IT MIGHT BE EAISIER TO PULL THE FENCE OFF THE LEVER END OF THE FENCE AND CUT IT THERE THEN JUST SLIDE IT BACK ON.

-- Joe in Pueblo West, Colo. jdelong264@msn.com

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#22 posted 04-08-2013 07:14 PM

Problem solved! Going to have a beer, any suggestions on getting her straight? Just sand down nylon runners?
Will post solution with step by step pics for anyone interested, after beer.

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#23 posted 04-09-2013 01:19 AM


Cliff hanger


Originally


Disassembled


Extrusion, got lucky screw hole goes all the way through to


Cutting it down


Original rod end, was going to re-thread the other end
but realized the thread was actually larger diameter then rod.


Cut rod 5” then split end to secure it to clamp down on fence.


Complete!


Fits like a glove, rock solid when locked.

This was achieved with basic hand tools:
Hacksaw
Miter box
Screwdriver
Vise
Pliers

Thank you everyone for your help it was all very much appreciated.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1254 posts in 1165 days


#24 posted 04-09-2013 01:45 AM

Well done,now it functions as it was designed .

-- Ken from Ontario

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

243 posts in 843 days


#25 posted 04-09-2013 04:52 AM

That’s great! How long did it take to hacksaw through it?

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5554 posts in 2094 days


#26 posted 04-09-2013 09:49 AM

That works!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1347 days


#27 posted 04-09-2013 11:56 AM

looks like the fence from a 3612/50. what brand TS was it applied to?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#28 posted 04-09-2013 01:36 PM

Took only 3-5 minutes to cut the fence, maybe faster with a new blade, but I found a hacksaw in the garden shed and old the blade was totally rusted on.

It was a craftex fence applied to a delta contractor saw.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1770 posts in 1347 days


#29 posted 04-09-2013 02:04 PM

that a direct drive delta?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View jimig11's profile

jimig11

55 posts in 620 days


#30 posted 04-09-2013 04:50 PM

Indeed it is, which leads to my next question, where to get a motor replacement?

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