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Grizzly G0703 Cyclone DC assembly thread

by darthford
posted 03-23-2013 07:45 AM


32 replies so far

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#1 posted 03-23-2013 09:18 AM

Step 3 – go easy on the threaded inserts I spun 3 of them tightening the 16 bolts in this step using just a standard 3/8 socket wrench. They were moderatly tight when they spun and should hold. Note the built in lock washers sit proud and need to be centered in the openings. This step otherwise was trouble free.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#2 posted 03-23-2013 09:27 AM

Steps 4 to 9 – I followed the instructions laying the machine on its side on some rubber floor mats to attach the stand. I lifted it upright solo without too much trouble, I chocked the wheels with a folded floor mat.

I attached the handle to the opposite side near the cyclone vs the filter side as shown in the instructions. Both sides have threaded inserts, I felt the handle provided added support to the cyclone side since the base on that side is open plus I wanted the handle under where the bulk of the weight is. It handles reasonably stable given how top heavy it is. If its annoying to move once the barrel us under there I’ll move the handle.

Easy build thus far.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#3 posted 03-23-2013 09:31 AM

Bottom view of cyclone

Side view of cyclone

Bottom view of filter

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Rustalbert

1 post in 642 days


#4 posted 03-23-2013 11:38 AM

Looking at the pictures I thought, How difficult it would be to make this. After reading these steps Its easy to make it and Its looking very nice. I like this concept.

http://www.lacoteimmo.com/

-- Rust Albert

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#5 posted 03-23-2013 01:38 PM

Great pics Darth! I am a bit concerned about how easy those nuts spun free.

I can’t wait to get mine in. I’m hoping its a problem free.

Got this thing fired up yet?????

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#6 posted 03-23-2013 01:39 PM

Oh, and on a side note, do you make your own custom amps or for a manufacturer? Gotta love tube amps! They have such great sound quality!

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#7 posted 03-25-2013 11:46 PM

Cal I’ll send you PM on this.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#8 posted 03-25-2013 11:55 PM

Okay back to the Grizzly cyclone assembly…

Wheels Mod – after I got the collector upright it just felt unsteady to me on the factory plastic wheels, not so that I thought it was going to tip over but since I’ll be moving this around regularly I decided to upgrade the wheels. I hit all my favorite hardware stores but Lowes had the best wheel, these are rubber wheels vs the Grizzly plastic. I picked through the entire bin and selected the wheels with the least amount of slop, this paid off the dust collector now feels a lot less wobbly and rolls really nice, I went 4 standard wheels and 4 with wheel locks.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#9 posted 03-26-2013 12:00 AM

Design Flaw – See this screw for the 6” to 5” reducer, bad location its directly under the blower housing, you can’t get a screw driver on it. I have a foot long extension for my cordless screw driver and was able to get just enough bight at an extreme angle to drive it in but it wasn’t pretty. They need to rotate the location of these screw holes 20 degrees. Also the fit on this reducer is loose and will require tape or silicone.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#10 posted 03-26-2013 12:05 AM

Clamp Headache – The wire clamps for the hose between the cyclone and bucket lid are too small and don’t fit. I wrestled with them for probably 15 minutes and made no progress. So I picked up these 5-8 inch clamps at the local Wilco farm store, easy install a couple minutes and no drama. Grizzly seriously raise the price $4 and include proper clamps.

Update: I have been wondering how I’ll know when the thing is full but looking at the see-through hose in this picture I have my answer.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#11 posted 03-26-2013 12:16 AM

Bagless – I elected to not use a plastic bag in the collection drum, nothing wrong with the design but the drum isn’t that big and when the planer is feeding this drum is going to fill up fairly quickly and I don’t want to be fussing with a bag. I’ll get a much larger container probably 64 gallon with some much cheaper contractor bags and dump the chips in there for disposal. Also the supplied bags are about 10 inches too long, thick heavy bags though they did’nt cheap out on them.

Future Mod – I can see I’m going to have to modify this lid with the clamps to raise it up and hold it like you see on a lot of other collectors. Trying to hold up the lid while sliding the drum in/out is not overly difficult but is already annoying.

Tip – There’s a rubber seal on the top of the barrel that needs to be cut to size. I installed the seal then cut it 1/4 inch too long on purpose, removed then reinstalled allowing the slack to be taken up around the parameter and it fit perfectly.

Next up I just have to install the plug and fire this baby up! I’ll put my decibel meter on it to see how much noise it makes.

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#12 posted 03-26-2013 01:21 AM

Great tips! I like the wheel upgrade. I’ll have to hit up my local Lowes for a set of those. I’m trying to setup my shop so I only have to move things on occasion but I do have some uneven concrete since my FL house was built in ‘63 and is a slab on sand. Settling and some cracking is almost inevitable. Seeing your’s, I’m not even going to try and put them on.

The other tips are well noted. While I’m at Lowes, I’ll make sure to get some bigger clamps!

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#13 posted 03-26-2013 01:33 AM

You know, I wonder if the poor mans option for holding up that lid would be to put an 2-3 eye bolts through the lid and then use small bungees to hook them to the handle bar to the left of the cyclone tube?

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#14 posted 03-26-2013 04:58 AM

Poor mans option would work just fine, I’d say three eye bolts and bungees or just some rope no need for the fancy clamps. I may adopt that idea myself, way simpler. I’m going to run it for a while to make sure there’s no warranty issues before I start drilling into the lid though.

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Handtooler

1132 posts in 883 days


#15 posted 03-26-2013 06:24 AM

Darth, Great blog and pics of the assembly. I have that same unit and didn’t cut the bag down just rolled it down over the drum rim and under the latches; and I remove the bag to dispose of the dust/chips in my garden. My only problem was reducing the 6” to 5” reducer down to 4” for my 110v electrical system and piping. A PVC reducer of 5-4” won’t fit there 6-5” steel reducer. Solution: a heavy rubber Cast Iron to PVC (CI/PVC) plumbing reducer with clamps, purchased at Lowe’s worked perfectly. I found no need for replacement casters since once the vacuum piping/tubing is installed I don’t move my system more that 2 feet, and then by that only allowed by the length if flex hose. I just unlatch the drum lid slide the drum out from under the lid by raising it slightly . The hose that sucks the bag into the drum for full capacity won’t allow you to move the drum far. Lift the bag out and away ya go. The holes in the bottom of the drum are gonna drop dust out if no bag is used and I’m uncertain as to how the flex hose from cyclone to drum will effect your efficiency? I really like my system with the exception that once I am able to use more hard piping and use 220v and the 6” first stage of the cyclone I’m certain I’ll enjoy MUCH better collection.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343 bassboy40@msn.com

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#16 posted 03-26-2013 06:37 AM

ARRGH! – Okay what you read about this dust collector running on a 110v 20amp breaker with the 5” inlet = not true. I have it further restricted down to 4” mind you and it still trips the breaker sporadically.

First try was a success and I got to test the collector cleaning up the drill press from some 1/38 inch holes I had drilled in some wood yesterday. It really moves some air, some chips had fallen down under the drill press floor base and it sucked those out no problem.

Turned it off/on again no problem. Then I tested the remote control, pop goes the breaker. Eliminated the extension cord (its 10/3 and rated for 20 amps) it still pops the breaker. Plugged the DC directly into the outlet which is only about 3 feet from the service panel, just used the on/off button and it still pops the breaker e.g. so its not an issue with the remote.

So I put the Fluke meter on this mother, wow at start up it sucks 78 amps, over the next 3 seconds amps drop to 50’s , then 30’s, finally stabilizing at 17 amps draw. Grizzly says it draws 18 amps at 6”, 15 amps at 5”. I further restricted the flow to about 40% of the 4” and amps fell to about 12 amps but it still spikes about 78 amps at start up.

Just proves the point go with your first instinct, I originally ordered the 220v conversion kit from Grizzly for this DC and had already wired up a 220v 30 amp outlet for it but Grizzly screwed up and shipped me the wrong conversion kit. I’ll have to call them back tomorrow and get them to ship the correct one out.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#17 posted 03-26-2013 07:01 AM

Thanks Handtooler, yeah that small hose tethering the drum to the cyclone yet another reason to not use a bag! lol There are no holes in the bottom of my drum for dust to fall out of so I’m curious why yours has holes or maybe I’m not understanding you.

FYI Rockler makes a high quality 5” to 4” adapter, it was like $5. Good job on finding a solution at Lowes though. ALSO buyer beware Grizzly’s 5” to 4” plastic reducer is JUNK. Sorry Grizzly but come on, take your reducer over to Rockler and compare.

Also I really like this 4” adapter with the handle on it from Rockler, easier to handle the unruly 5” hose and makes removing the hose from the machine a lot easier.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#18 posted 03-26-2013 06:22 PM

I just called Grizzly to have them ship me the correct 220v conversion kit since they shipped me the wrong one originally. What a bad customer experience. They refuse to ship me the correct conversion kit unless I pay for the thing a 2nd time stating, “that’s our policy”. I could return the incorrect conversion kit, wait 3-5 days for it to get there, more days for them to process, then wait another 3-5 days for them to ship me the correct part which is utterly ridiculous. What can I do I agree to pay for it a 2nd time but I’m not happy about it. So I ask them to at least bump up the shipping to 2nd day since its their mistake, they refuse stating “that’s our policy”. So I pay the $31.40 for 2nd day shipping also.

My turn…its their company they can establish any policies they like BUT its my money and I can take my business elsewhere, I emptied my cart at Grizzly that just cost them several thousand in sales, I’m done with them.

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#19 posted 03-26-2013 11:20 PM

Thanks for keeping the good info going. Your tips will come in handy when I start putting mine together.

Bummer to hear about your issues with Grizzly support. Especially considering how good they were when dealing with my shipping issues. They are shipping a complete new jointer base and DC system before waiting to find out if they first two boxes will show up. Just told me to refuse shipment on the first set if they ever show up.

There policy should only be relevant in the case you order the wrong part. You didn’t. Therefore it should be on their heads to make it right.

Good luck!

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#20 posted 03-26-2013 11:52 PM

Just the straw that broke the camels back Cal. I have been thinking all day I should have just waited and purchased the JDS when they get back in stock. I’m still excited about the cyclone, just hoping I don’t run into anymore problems so I don’t have to deal with those people again.

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Shawn Masterson

1262 posts in 699 days


#21 posted 03-27-2013 12:24 AM

call back, when you call you get some idiot in a call center. some aren’t willing to do the right thing then hang up and call back and talk to the next dummy. if that doesn’t work talk to a higher up. they can go back in the system and fix it. It was there F* up, they need to make it right not screw you. I ordered some A-arm bushings for my lifted Silverado and the company sent me shock bushings. I called them and they gave me the same crap. I went round and round with them just on principal, and finally got heard. they ended up drop shipping them next day air and told me if the wrong part wasn’t on it’s way back in 5 business days they would charge my card for the part+shipping. the wrong part was on its way the same day. you can’t let these corporate jagoff’s win or they will think it’s ok to stop caring about the people who keep their lights on.

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#22 posted 03-27-2013 12:56 AM

I’m not familiar with the JDS systems but they look pretty nice. That 2011-CKV is pretty sweet. If I were gonna spend that kinda money though, I’d probably go with an Oneida system.

Also, I forgot to mention earlier, I am a bit concerned about seeing such high amp usage on initial startup. Something just doesn’t seem right with that. Especially considering their recommended circuit sizes call for 220v at 20amp and 110v at 20 to 30amp depending on the 5” restrictor.

I was planning on using a dedicated 20amp 220v circuit. I may have to break out some 10/2 and get 30amp plugs and breakers instead. I wonder if the upgraded circuit board might help. I wish I could say for sure since all I have is the board with no DC system to put it in! :( UPS claims Thurs. We shall see.

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#23 posted 03-27-2013 03:28 AM

Cal I owned a JDS cartridge DC a few years back, they build a nice machine and they are made in Taiwan. Both their smaller cyclones are really nice and getting popular, the last shipment was sold out before it arrived. The next shipment is still 3-4 weeks out. The 2100-CKV is $1,449 but they offer free shipping and no sales tax, with shipping and sales tax and this 220 conversion kit I’m into this Grizzly cyclone now $1,050 plus another $141 today for the second conversion kit, shipping, and sales tax…yeah I’m going to get all worked up again in a minute ahahaha! But never mind all that tomorrow is…wait for it…new tractor day a shiny new Kubota B2920 with front end loader, backhoe, and mower is being delivered whoohoo!!

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#24 posted 03-27-2013 03:29 AM

I hear you Shawn, don’t think its worth it honestly I escalated to a manager already. I got bigger fish to fry than dealing with these people.

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#25 posted 03-27-2013 03:53 AM

Dang darth! With all these new goodies the past few weeks, you’re gonna drive youzelf crazy figuring out which ones to play with. What other goodies you got in the works and do you need anyone to swing by and help you use them? You obviously cant play with them all at once! ;-)

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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gtbuzz

386 posts in 1192 days


#26 posted 03-27-2013 02:05 PM

Sorry to hear about your problems with Grizzly. I recently went through a round of issues with them, but it eventually got resolved. Just took a lot of legwork and took about 2 1/2 months, but it did get resolved. I’m not sure if there’s been a change recently, but I’ve noticed a couple other complaints about their customer service recently. Hopefully it’s just a blip as from most other accounts their customer service is pretty outstanding.

Because they sent you the wrong coversion kit, at the very least, you should be able to return the incorrect one to them (they pay shipping). That’s basically what I got them to do for me.

Feel free to pm me if you need more info, but it sounds like you’ve got your hands pretty full. Congrats on the new toys!

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#27 posted 03-27-2013 06:05 PM

GT I had heard the same thing about Grizzly’s customer service, that it was excellent so this caught me off guard. Now the GOOD NEWS…

I got a call this morning from Grizzly’s general manager apologizing for recent slip in customer service, she explained Grizzly customer service is usually much better. I can respect that, good to see Grizzly stepping up and accepting responsibility. She also informed me the 2nd 220v conversion kit they shipped me yesterday was also the wrong one, but they caught the mistake and are shipping me the correct part today next day air at their expense. She is also refunding to me the 2nd day air shipping I paid yesterday, plus the cost of both conversion kits I paid for. So good job Grizzly, some companies would write off a customer its good to see them making things right.

Important: Grizzly figured out where things went wrong, they have two versions of this conversion kit in stock it turns out. Previously this Grizzly cyclone had a larger on/off/remote control box mounted on the stand, they changed this and now the control box mounted on the motor and its much smaller. They had shipped me the older one.

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#28 posted 03-27-2013 07:25 PM

Update: Grizzly tech support has confirmed 78 amps at startup is normal and to be expected and I’m good to go with my 220v 30amp dedicated circuit once the 220v conversion kit is installed. Now where’s my new Kubota tractor that’s supposed to arrive today…

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#29 posted 03-27-2013 07:37 PM

Cal next up is an 8” jointer with a spiral cutterhead and maybe a small CNC router. I already have 3D CNC cad/cam software (OneCNC XR2 Mill).

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#30 posted 03-30-2013 05:56 AM

UPDATE: I finally received the correct 220v conversion kit and installed it tonight and the DC seems to be running fine. Re-wiring the motor per the instructions was straight forward, the four wires are numbered, you will need 1 wire nut not supplied. Instructions for swapping the circuit boards however lack clarity so here are some additional details…

The instructions simply say remove the 3 screws then remove the circuit board and replace. The problem is there are actually 6 screws, 2 circuit boards stacked together with 2 sets of threaded plastic spacers. The 220v conversion kits includes this entire assembly.

This stuff is sandwidched together as follows…3 metal screws through face panel into bottom set of threaded plastic spacers, bottom circuit board, 2nd set of threaded plastic spacers, top circuit board, 3 plastic screws. The 3 metal screws are not accessable as the screw heads are hidden below the adhesive graphics on the face panel. One could cut this away exposing the screw heads but this messes up the face panel, here’s a better way.

Recommended Approach

1. Review the Grizzly wiring instructions, understand which wires will be removed and where to re-attach them to the new circuit boards before you begin.

2. Remove the 110v circuit boards...remove the three plastic screws from the top circuit board, lift the top circuit board off then unscrew the 3 threaded plastic spacers below, then remove the bottom circuit board. This will leave in place the original 3 threaded plastic spacers secured to the face panel with the 3 hidden metal screws.

3. Prepare the 220v circuit boards...you just need the 2 circuit boards so remove the 3 plastic screws from the top board, lift the top board off and remove all 6 threaded plastic spacers and the 3 metal screws.

4. Install the 220v circuit boards...place the bottom circuit board on the original threaded plastic spacers and secure with 3 threaded plastic spacers, place the top circuit on the threaded plastic spacers and secure with the 3 plastic screws.

5. Re-attach the wires per the Grizzly instructions, double check your wiring to avoid risk of DEATH or consult an electrician.

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clafollett

114 posts in 1406 days


#31 posted 04-01-2013 02:06 AM

Glad to see Grizzly stepped up and made it right and that the 220V conversion kit worked out for you. Have you had a chance to put your’s to much use yet?

Did you ever get your tractor? Those things sure are sweet!

My order finally came in Thurs so I am also now a proud owner of a Grizzly DC system. I’ve spent the past several days setting up the jointer and DC system. I had to figure out wiring since I’m not ultimately sure where I want all this stuff placed. I ended up creating two direct to panel 25’ power chords. For now, I think that will work just fine. It gives me the freedom of true mobility until I get my bench and cabinet storage figured out.

You and I must think a like. I performed the 220V circuit board upgrade almost verbatim to what you did. It was really the only solution unless you want to puncture holes in the front plastic overlay of the switch or peel the overlay off. Good luck getting that to stick back together!

I’m running mine on a 20A 220V circuit. With nothing connected to the 6” inlet, I did not experience a tripped breaker. I can’t honestly imagine out growing this thing in the near future. Not when most of the time, only one machine will be running. If I do, I’m not so sure I wouldn’t just get another one and segment them off into tool groups.

I do have one nit to pick… The cyclone 7” bottom inlet port does not aline nicely with the 7” port on the lid for the collector drum. Its off set by a good 1/2” plus. The short 7” spring hose they provide was a little tricky to fit well.

I was able to use the original hose clamps. The trick was I had back the screw all the way out and then take the hooks out of the eyelet holes, open up the clamp and wrap it around the fitted hose, pull the clamp ends together, one hook at a time and then screw it closed. There isn’t much room to play with but it worked like a champ.

Now, let’s cross our fingers the long term personal use reviews prove this thing a winner.

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

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darthford

532 posts in 675 days


#32 posted 04-01-2013 02:35 AM

Cal I did the same thing, mounted my 220’s within a couple feet of the service panel and made up a couple 10 guage power cords. DC, table saw, and planer store up against a wall out of the way and I drag them out to the middle as needed. I have quick connects on all the machines to attach the Grizzly cyclone (Rockler). Your good to go with 220v 20amp for the Cyclone, I needed 30 amp for the Powermatic table saw and planer and my cords are rated 30 amp.

Regarding lid to cyclone alignment let me go look at mine, the lid is oversize brb…okay my lid is off about 1/2 inch out from the cyclone. My clamps must have been shorter I tried that and could not pull the wires back in with big channel locks.

We’ll see how this machine holds up, for part time home shop use I have high hopes. If I was a commercial cabinet shop obviously I’d go with something else. I will say I absolutely love the compact size and foot print of this Grizzly, a cyclone that takes up about the same space as my old JDS cartridge. It does make some noise, I still have to measure with my decibel meter.

Finally yes I got the tractor, that has consumed my every free minute since Thursday learning it. I removed the backhoe and mower deck this weekend and picked up a box blade. Here’s a couple pics.

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