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Questions about jointers...on a budget.

by BinghamtonEd
posted 03-04-2013 02:16 PM


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79 replies

79 replies so far

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1741 posts in 1667 days


#1 posted 03-04-2013 02:50 PM

I had a delta bench top six inch jointer for about ten years that I liked. I paid $200 for it. It met my needs. It was direct drive variable speed. I am not sure they still make it though. I finally wore it out and bought a big Grizzly GO654.

-- In God We Trust

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BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#2 posted 03-04-2013 02:56 PM

Kinda like this one?

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

650 posts in 944 days


#3 posted 03-04-2013 03:19 PM

Depends on what condition you are willing to accept (and sometimes how far you are willing to drive!). A newer pristine jointer that has seen little use will command much more than an older/vintage one that needs some tlc. However, in most cases you will get much more of a machine opting for that vintage one. One key is to have patience and be persistent on CL.. don’t just jump on the first thing you see come along unless it’s an absolutely fantastic too good to pass up deal :) If you take your time and wait for the deal to find you, it will eventually. As for a jointer, $250 will go a long way if you are willing to get your hands dirty.. Just last year I picked up a Delta 14” bandsaw and a Boyce-Crane 6” jointer for way less than that (package deal – $170 for both). A little cleaning, new bearings and belts and both are now better than new. After adding in the cost of new belts, blades, bearings, etc.. this wound up costing me a hair over $150:

It’s roughly 300 pounds of pure joy to use.. much nicer than pretty much any machine I could have purchased new and for a fraction of their cost. Remain patient and no telling how much good stuff you can get with that $250! Don’t worry too much if the tables are out of plane.. they can be shimmed out. Don’t worry too much about nicks and dents in the blades.. they will most likely need to be replaced or at the very least sharpened. Unless the machine is fairly new, expect to replace the cutter head bearings (cheap and easy to do). Use these to your advantage as bargaining points when negotiating a price. Do check for cracked or broken cast iron parts and missing bits. If you find a cracked housing or table, walk away fast (sure sign of abuse!) Look for ones that are as complete as possible. Even worn parts are better than no parts and will at least give you a pattern to replicate if needed!

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View levan's profile

levan

427 posts in 1725 days


#4 posted 03-04-2013 03:48 PM

I would agree with Brad. Be patient and you will find a great deal. I’m sure this is to far away for you, but the offerings change frequently. Just another place to watch. They do get some quality machine on here quite often. Maybe something closer to you soon.

http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.AdvSearchResultsNew&kWord=jointer&whichForm=vehicle&searchPg=Main

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1301 posts in 1192 days


#5 posted 03-04-2013 04:00 PM

I agree with MRunix(brad).When I was looking for a jointer I asked other members what they recommended for $200,almost all warned me about the ” motorized bench top models” a few had good service and no complains but even those guys moved on to the older ,heavy cast iron 6” or 8” jointers.
some of these older models may need bearing /belt changed but not all.the only thing you may have to do before putting it to use is to clean up some surface rust ,but as mentioned above, keep checking CL and jump on a deal when you see one,driving a couple of hours to get any tool is part of the fun.

-- Ken from Ontario

View bbc557ci's profile

bbc557ci

548 posts in 819 days


#6 posted 03-04-2013 06:04 PM

BinghamtonED – Just saw this for sale on CL. Little more than what you’re looking to spend, but not too much. Are you in Binghamton NY? If so, Rochester is just a few hours from you.

btw… I know nothing about the Ridgid jointers, maybe someone will chime in and let you/me know if this is a decent deal. Good luck with your hunt!!

http://syracuse.craigslist.org/tls/3649207434.html

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#7 posted 03-04-2013 06:14 PM

bbc, I actually did see that one, but $250 really is the max I can spend right now. Maybe in a month or so I can bump it up a little bit. I actually grep up about 10 minutes from Fairmount, (its just a few minutes west of Syracuse).

Edit : I may be heading up to Syracuse in the next few weeks to pilfer some beer-making supplies from my parents’ house while they’re in Florida for the winter season. If that’s still for sale, I might make an offer. I read decent things about those.)

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View bbc557ci's profile

bbc557ci

548 posts in 819 days


#8 posted 03-04-2013 06:15 PM

Nuther on Syracuse CR – old Cresent. Again…. I know nothing about this one either

http://syracuse.craigslist.org/tls/3656374727.html

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#9 posted 03-04-2013 06:16 PM

I saw that, wasn’t too fond of the chunk missing out of the table!

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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bbc557ci

548 posts in 819 days


#10 posted 03-04-2013 06:24 PM

Whoa, sorry, I didn’t see that!! Just saw the add and did the quick cut/paste.

Maybe you could put a “want add” in the CR Tool section. I did that sevaral months ago while looking for a 1 hp motor for my old Craftsman table saw. Guy sent me an email and I ended up getting one that looked almost new for $50.00.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

View levan's profile

levan

427 posts in 1725 days


#11 posted 03-04-2013 06:36 PM

If your folks are in florida you might consider this.
http://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=1059&acctid=3015

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#12 posted 03-04-2013 06:37 PM

Thanks for the link, but that would most definitely not fit in their car! Now, if I could score something like that locally…

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View levan's profile

levan

427 posts in 1725 days


#13 posted 03-04-2013 06:39 PM

I guess if the price ends up right it might be worth shipping. just a thought

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View toolie's profile

toolie

1773 posts in 1374 days


#14 posted 03-04-2013 06:59 PM

binghamtoned…........ that ridgid jointer is a neat little unit. and those older, gray colored ridgds carry lifetume guaranties against manufacturing defects, regardless of ownership. IMHO, it might be worth the $50 differential to stretch for a unit that was the top value in wood magazine’s last comparative test of 6” jointers. just my $.02.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5601 posts in 2121 days


#15 posted 03-04-2013 10:10 PM

I’d definitely suggest sticking with a belt drive cast iron stationary model as opposed to a benchtop. Even the humble HF 6” jointer is capable of making flat square boards.

I’d make an offer $250 for the Ridgid now before it’s gone, then arrange pickup. It’s quite possible that $300 is more than they were looking to get….I usually ask what a seller would be willing to take before making my offer, because sometimes they ask less than what I was going to offer. If it’s more than $250, that’s the time to explain that $250 is your top end and put the ball back in their court….you can always leave your number.

Here's a nice old King Seeley for $65 that might be within driving distance from you.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1301 posts in 1192 days


#16 posted 03-04-2013 11:12 PM

I have that exact model ,it is actually a Ridgid JP06101,great jointer,I bought it based on lots of great reviews,paid $225 delivered to my home.don’t get discouraged with the $300 price,he’ll probably settle for $250.you won’t regret buying it.

-- Ken from Ontario

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#17 posted 03-05-2013 01:01 PM

I sent an e-mail offering $250 (made it clear that was all I could offer) and he said he’d think about it and get back to me. In the meantime, I got a hit off of my wanted ad, a guy says he has an old 8” Yates jointer in good working order just taking up space in the back of his garage. He said he’d let it go for around $150, which, if the thing really is in good working order, seems like a great deal. I’d need to find out what the motor ont he thing is, as I would prefer to run on 110 (I have a ghetto extension cord for my buzz box that I run from the laundry room, but it’s rarely used). I figure even if I need to pick up a new motor, I could buy a 110 motor and still be around my price range, with an 8” jointer. The other thing I’d have to figure out is the overall size of this thing, I work out of a 2-car garage, and space is at a premium.

Thoughts?

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Straightbowed's profile

Straightbowed

717 posts in 1043 days


#18 posted 03-05-2013 02:42 PM

you should have no problem finding a jet or equal in the 6 inch range for 250 there is a couple around KY TENN for 250 and there is a older 8 inch jointer in BOWLING GREEN for 300 its old but I think its a yates or oliver or something of that nature on craigslist if I had the money I would buy it in a heartbeat goodluck and please be patient you will find something good for 250.00 just hold on dont buy a benchtop you wont be happy just hang on

-- Stevo, work in tha city woodshop in the country

View toolie's profile

toolie

1773 posts in 1374 days


#19 posted 03-05-2013 04:32 PM

and space is at a premium.

that’s why god created mobile bases.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#20 posted 03-05-2013 04:38 PM

I’m with ya there, toolie. My TS is the 4100, and my planer, BS, and router table are all on mobile bases. My “workbench” was a 2×4 frame with a 7’x3’x3/4” plywood top. I’ve made an 8ft span of nice floor cabinets for the garage with a 1.5”MDF top with a replaceable hardboard surface. Once I get the drawers completed for that, I am thinking of ditching the old workbench and using that area to keep the larger tools all out of the way when not in use.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View greatview's profile

greatview

69 posts in 1903 days


#21 posted 03-05-2013 05:40 PM

Here’s an excellent way to search Craigslist. Enter your zip code and how far you’re willing to travel and what you are looking for.

-- Tom, New London, NH

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#22 posted 03-05-2013 05:44 PM

The 8” Yates is a single phase, 110 machine. Looking around online, and not knowing the model number, I suspect it is a direct drive jointer. Any reason that should cause me to worry? Mainly if the motor needs replacement, would it be difficult to refit with a modern motor?

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 929 days


#23 posted 03-05-2013 05:45 PM

Man, if you get a Yates 8” jointer for $150, you are one lucky SOB. Get on that IMMEDIATELY.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#24 posted 03-05-2013 05:48 PM

Lol, I should have pictures tonight, and if it looks good, I will try to get out there Saturday or Sunday. Just trying to make sure I don’t bring this home, and find out that a replacement motor or blades is exponentially harder to find than the jointer was.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 929 days


#25 posted 03-05-2013 05:50 PM

Let me reiterate here. A Yates jointer is a Serious Woodworking Machine that makes the Ridgid look like a cheap toy. Run, do not walk.

Here are the Yates jointers in the Vintage Machinery wiki.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 929 days


#26 posted 03-05-2013 05:53 PM

I think you’ll find the folks over at owwm.org are extremely helpful in getting parts if you need them, and in general helping you out with setting everything up. They are experts, and you can expect a ton of “you sucks” if you walk away with that machine for a Benjie and a half.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View BigRedKnothead's profile

BigRedKnothead

5785 posts in 727 days


#27 posted 03-06-2013 12:06 AM

Keep us posted. Even if it needs some work, might be a good way to learn about the machine. Have a feeling your gonna make me regret dropping $700 on my 8” Grizzly last year;-) Only regret I have with it so far is…I shoul’ve gotten it sooner.

-- Red-- "At the end of the day, try and make it beautiful....because the world is full of ugly." Konrad Sauer

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#28 posted 03-13-2013 06:57 PM

Never heard anything back from our friend with the Yates :( I sent another e-mail bugging him last weekend. In the meantime, I got an email with an old craftsman 6” model, the guy wants $200, seems to be a bit high, based on my non-existent knowledge of old jointer pricing.

http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/craftsman-6-inch-jointer-planer.html

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1602 posts in 2207 days


#29 posted 03-13-2013 07:13 PM

Keep an eye out if the machine is single or 3 phase. I prefer 3 phase machines only because they are cheaper, last longer and less desirable to the masses. But if you DO NOT have the capability to run a 3ph machine you might wanna pass. I say might, because you do have a couple of options. The easiest is to change the motor out to a single phase and the other is a VFD. However, both with require additional cash that you sound strapped for now.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View stevenmadden's profile

stevenmadden

174 posts in 1835 days


#30 posted 03-13-2013 07:36 PM

BinghamtonEd: I will become a very unpopular person with this comment, but I believe it to be true; you do not need a jointer. A jointer plane (22” or more) and some skill will get you just as far (if not farther) than a jointer machine. I am not one of those “hand tool only” guys that you read so much about these days; I am simply speaking from my personal experience. I can take a board and face joint it in no time at all, then send it through my thickness planer (using the jointed face for reference) and have a perfectly flat board. Edge jointing is just as easy (if not easier) and then I send it through the table saw to get parallel edges. I could go on, but I think you get the point.

Anyway, jointers (machines) are great, but with the money you have to spend, I am not sure that you can get the quality of machine that is necessary to do the job (properly), or one that will outdo a jointer plane (you can get a very good one for that money). Something to think about.

Steven

View cutworm's profile

cutworm

1065 posts in 1539 days


#31 posted 03-13-2013 09:45 PM

How far are you from Pottstown PA? You could give Direct Tools a call and see if they have the Ridgid in stock. They are at the Tanger Outlets. I saw where someone got one there for a little less than 300. $248.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/44088

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

594 posts in 775 days


#32 posted 03-14-2013 01:58 AM

If you have never owned a jointer before… I might suggest another path to consider.
I bought my 6” Rockwell knowing the beds were the dinky variety (not long beds), needed some TLC, etc. For $100. I wanted to learn how to use a jointer first (disassemble, clean, remove/install/sharpen blades, understanding the dynamics of what a jointer can/will not do) before going full bore on a more professional version. You can easily find 6” craftsman jointers on CL or local estate auctions for $100. $250? i would pass.
my rockwell jointer cleanup.

View BigRedKnothead's profile

BigRedKnothead

5785 posts in 727 days


#33 posted 03-14-2013 02:02 AM

I think you could do better than that craftsman. Pretty rough, and the bed doesn’t look any longer than a benchtop model.
I did get by for awhile without a jointer. To true up edges, I used a straight plywood edge and a pattern router bit. However, truing a face on all your lumber by hand, I wouldn’t wish that on anyone. My jointer is the biggest time/sweat saver in my shop bar none.
Still think you can get a good one for your price. Gotta take the “I’ve got more time than money” approach.

-- Red-- "At the end of the day, try and make it beautiful....because the world is full of ugly." Konrad Sauer

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 1031 days


#34 posted 03-14-2013 02:19 AM

If you have the cash and the space, having a jointer is better than not having one. I’ve done it both ways. Edge jointing is not the problem, as even when I owned a jointer I often performed this task with a hand plane (think late nights with sleeping kids). A good jointer plane with a sharp blade will make quick work of most board edges. It’s face jointing where the power jointer comes into it’s own. This is why I sold my 6” Delta jointer—it was just too small for my needs. I’ll own another jointer someday. When I do, it will be at least 8”, and will have a spiral cutter head, as I work with a lot of highly figured woods. In the mean time, there are work arounds, but nothing that is faster or more efficient at face jointing rough sawn lumber. My two cents.

-- John, BC, Canada

View derosa's profile

derosa

1557 posts in 1581 days


#35 posted 03-14-2013 03:01 AM

I just dropped 100 on a buffalo jointer and another 25.00 on blades shipped to my door. With flat tables and new HSS blades it can make a board flat quickly and easily. It’ll also joint one edge quick enough. I got away with a planer for quite a while jointing boards but I’m now glad I have the jointer. Only complaint is that it isn’t an 8”, I knew a 6” wouldn’t be quite what I wanted but I need it soon, have never seen an 8” at this range, it has decent length beds, and I know I can flip it for my money back. With 250, I’d hold out for an 8” and avoid anything with short tables like that craftsman or with that kind of rust unless it is truly bargain basement.
I’m with those who say to skip the hand tools for face jointing and even for initial jointing of an edge. The power jointer is just so much faster. For jointing two edges that will be glued together, then you want to break out the hand jointer and create a seam you almost can’t see light through.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View Alan72's profile

Alan72

101 posts in 778 days


#36 posted 03-14-2013 03:30 AM

I bought my Ridgid jointer a couple of years ago off craigslist and paid $275.00 the only thing I had to do was to replace the knives after a year or so. I really like my Ridgid and glad I have it. The only way I would sell it is to upgrade to a 8” jointer if i had the chance. Do you have any Factory direct store where you live (they are usually in the outlet mails). They sell over stocked and refeb, ridgid equipment, I’ve seen jointers, tablesaws, drill presses and sanders. Good luck finding the right jointer.

View Kyle's profile

Kyle

109 posts in 1389 days


#37 posted 03-14-2013 03:48 AM

It’s too bad you weren’t looking for that Rigid jointer a couple years ago because I know for a fact that the JC home depot had one on clearance. I have the Rigid one and it does everything I need it to do unless I need to face joint a board wider than 6”, which does happen now and then but there are ways around it. Good luck on the search my friend.

-- Kyle

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NGK

93 posts in 656 days


#38 posted 03-14-2013 04:06 AM

I agree with stevenmadden that in most shops a jointer is not necessary. I have an 8-inch and it’s only used for demonstration purposes the first night of a class.

For the edges of boards I clamp an old 8-foot level to the fence of my table saw, extending my rip-fence. Parallel-jaw wooden clamp. For cupped boards you can make a sled for your planer. Just take a fairly rigid piece of plywood or a 2 X 12 plank, mounting a cleat on the rear to push your cujpped board through. First pass or two should be with the crown UP. Then flip it. If it teeters diagonally, shim one or two corners.

View unbob's profile

unbob

465 posts in 649 days


#39 posted 03-14-2013 06:46 AM

I would have to agree, a jointer hand plane would be the best start.
Though, I make extensive use of jointers “machine”, often I find it best to to do some hand planing to prepare a board for the jointer, to save how much has to be machined off to hit target thickness.
On using a planer with a sled. I find it best to support the board the full length on the cupped side to the sled with shims.
I dont know about little planers, the ones I use have at least 200lbs roller pressure. Otherwise, my boards will squish down from the rollers, and come out not much better.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#40 posted 03-14-2013 12:18 PM

Wow, thanks for all the responses guys! I currently am using a plywood sled with shims with my planer, it works OK. I would just like to have the right tool for the job. I spend more time setting up the piece in the sled and resetting the planer height than I’d like, and I have the funds to get into the jointer market, so I’d like to do that. I let the Craftsman sink in last night, and I decided to pass. I feel like I can get more for my money. I’ve made do without one up until now, there’s no reason for me to settle on something I’m not 100% on.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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PaulHWood

129 posts in 998 days


#41 posted 03-14-2013 01:09 PM

I have the ridgid bought at Home Depot for $225 (half full retail) about a year ago

I had heard on here that they were closing them out and remember seeing two in boxes at my Home Depot. I inquired and found out they were in fact closing them out, I asked how much and she said is 225 ok, I grabbed it and after the fact probably could have talked her down more. out of the box everything was square and flat. Have not used it extensively yet, but have squared a few pieces of wood with success.

Plus, registered it for LSA

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toolie

1773 posts in 1374 days


#42 posted 03-14-2013 01:51 PM

i think i’ve made this point before, but i feel compelled to make it again. i don’ think there is a better value in 6” jointers than the ridgid 0610. great performance, 3 year guaranty and LSA eligible, if it fits the budget.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View cutworm's profile

cutworm

1065 posts in 1539 days


#43 posted 03-14-2013 03:57 PM

1+ Toolie. I checked at Pottsville. $289 and it’s new. I paid 306 and thought I did well.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

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BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#44 posted 03-14-2013 04:19 PM

Well now I’m going to have to check my HD. If I can get something brand new with a LSA and a 3 year warranty, I can probably probably make a convincing argument. I’ll have to look on the high up shelves as I know there aren’t any on the floor.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View yrob's profile

yrob

340 posts in 2398 days


#45 posted 03-14-2013 04:53 PM

I used a King Seeley for years before I upgraded to a bigger stationary Jet model. They are very good units. The table is well machined and dead flat on those. The only drawback is that it is harder to setup than a newer jointer.

My unit for example, did not have a means of lowering the back table. So to make both coplanar, you had to adjust bolts under the jointer. Once they are coplanar, the front table can be lowered and raised for the depth of cut.

Luckily once you go through it , its done and you do not have to redo it.

Yves

-- Yves

View toolie's profile

toolie

1773 posts in 1374 days


#46 posted 03-14-2013 08:09 PM

binghamtoned…......that’s the way to do it. always check out the overheads in and around the tool area. i found 4 dewalt 735 planers that way when HD clearanced them, even though the store computer indicated none on hand (sold those for a tidy little tool allocated profit). same thing for the ridgid 14” band saw and floor drill press. even found 5 of the magnetic featherboards for $.01 each in threee different stores. good luck in your search.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#47 posted 03-15-2013 12:06 PM

Yeah, no luck at HD. Just waiting to see if anything good turns up on Craigslist.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

112 posts in 740 days


#48 posted 03-15-2013 03:12 PM

This may also be an unpopular opinion, but I bought a 6” bench top jointer from Shop Fox. It makes boards that are flat. It has a short bed, but i have done a 3’ piece with really no issue. Haven’t tried longer. The infeed table is adjustable so you can ensure it is coplanar with the outfeed table. The fence has a bit of twist, but I have been able to get perfect 90degree edges with no problem. The cost was about $230. It also fits on a shelf in my garage, which is a plus for me due to space constraints. You may consider this on your budget. Though if you have the space and the patience you could potentially get a larger tool off CL.

-Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View levan's profile

levan

427 posts in 1725 days


#49 posted 03-19-2013 08:57 PM

something a little closer under 100 miles. I have one of these and love it. Also have 8” which I seldom use. http://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/aucalsrh/JOINTER 4 IN
Sale-Lot Number: 21QSCI13048006
State: NY
Current Bid: 10 USD
Bidders: 1
Close Time: 03/22 06:00 PM CT *
Time Remaining: 3 Days, 1 Hours, 37 Minutes

DescriptionBidding DetailsBid History

JOINTER 4 IN, MFG DELTA ROCKWELL, MDL CAT37290 (1 EA) -USED- NO PHOTO 362315301720130

-- "If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right". Henry Ford

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

1593 posts in 1115 days


#50 posted 03-27-2013 07:26 PM

OK, so I finally heard back about the Yates. $150 negotiable. It looks like an old 8” J-Line on an old powermatic base, any agree/disagree? He states that the bed is 65” long. The rust is surface rust only and no pitting. It will need a new cord, and runs on 110.. Bed adjustments are not seized up and work properly. He says he has equipment to sharpen up to 20” jointer/planer knives and will sharpen the knives if I want (sure, why not). Seems like it has some decent potential, any thoughts guys? I could pick it up Friday.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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